2210 50 Hr Service Rants/Questions

[fgross335_2210]

I did the 50 hr service on my 2210 today. Generally went very well. Couple of questions for y'all.

1. The break in oil was VERY dirty, which I assume is normal....I've never seen oil come out as black as this stuff. I'm now running Rotella Synthetic. I noticed after running the tractor for just a few minutes, this oil already looks dark. Almost seems like the new oil is scouring the engine clean. Is this anything to be concerned with?

2. Hyd trans oil change went great except....getting the elbow-shaped hose off in order to remove and clean the suction pickup screen. I had to use a screwdriver to lever the hose off the fitting. There just isn't enough room to remove the hose. Any one else run into this problem? I was hoping to avoid using any tools on the hose but ran out of ideas. BTW the pickup screen had quite a few small magnetic particles but nothing big.....appeared to be normal debries.

Also just wondering what the dealer would have charged, took me 3 hrs but I took my time............

 

[Docsknotinn]

If my oil was that dirty that quick I would just change the oil and filter again in 10 hours. This new the oil should be darn clean. I am very picky about that and I don not care even a little about the cost of the extra filter and oil. How did the air filter look ? It was such a dry summer I replaced mine at 50 hours. Dave

 

[bmclernon]

Black engin oil is quite common for diesels. Has to do with soot in the cobustion process. If you have any questions about your oil I might suggest getting a sample kit from Keystone Labs (they have a web site) and have an analysis done as part of your next oil change. Although I'm new to diesel tractors I have owned several diesel Benz over the years. I use this oil analysis procedure periodicly to monitor engine wear and tear.

 

[mhalla]

<font color="green">Ditto with the black oil on my 50 hour oil change. I saved a baby food jar full of the old oil in case I ever needed or wanted to have it analyzed. I refilled with Rotella T which I guess is not synthetic?

I had the same problem getting the suction hose off from the suction screen cover. Although the manual only says to loosen the lower clamp, I had to remove both clamps completely in order to get the hose off without fear of overstressing the rubber and cords. No way is there all the headspace above the hose as seen in the illustration in the manual.

Mike</font>

 

[Wildman1]

Just did my 50hr on my 2210. The old oil was just starting to get a little black but not bad. I had the same trouble with the suction filter...pain in the a**. BUT..no mention anywhere about the spin-on filter on the front of the transmission. I noticed there was a large dent in it, looked in the book to see what the thing was (appeared as though it was some sort of filter) and could find no reference to it at all.

Went to the dealer and they looked it up and found that it is a spin-on. I bought a new one (the only one they had) and changed it as well. $20 for it. I'll cross-reference it, if possible, at Napa.

I changed to Rotella synthetic as well. I now have 10 hours on the new oil and it still looks clean. The oil in my Izusu 60hp diesel in my boat always gets jet black soon after an oil change and stays that way. Has always been that way since it was brand new...go figure.

 

[bmclernon]

Here is the link to Blackstone Labs I referenced in my earlier post. It contains a lot of info about oil analysis and what it tells about engine condition.

http://www.blackstone-labs.com/index.html

 

[mhalla]

<font color="green">I went to the Shell Rotella web site and figured out that I am using the multigrade Rotella T in my 2210 instead of the synthetic:

http://www.rotella.com/products.php

Mike</font>

 

[fgross335_2210]

Thanks Guys!!!

Good advice about changing the oil again. I don't plan to use the tractor a lot over the winter (also have a 335 with 42" thrower and son always gets to the driverway before me) so I will probably change the oil/filter again in the spring.

I did verify I AM using the Rotella Synthetic....dark blue bottle....and I know synthetics tend to "clean" the motor a little bit.....

I didn't think about the dry summer....it was very dry here....I will take another look at the air filter and primary....didn't look too bad but I really wasn't thinking they would already be dirty. Cheap insurance to replace.

I can tell you this was the blackest oil, by far, that I have ever drained out of anything.....

My tranny filter had a big hortizontal scratch from removing/replacing the mower deck....very exposed location, but the one thing that was easy to remove and replace!!!

Thanks again for the feedback, together we make everyone a little smarter.

 

[F350Lawman]

I can vouch for Blackstone Labs. They caught a minor oil contamination problem on my Chevy van just as it went out of warranty. Their "evidence" allowed me to fight and get the work covered by Chevy. Easily saved me 1500-2000 dollars in damage that wuld have occurred if the condition went unnoticed until the "normal" signs showed.

Blackstone gave my F350 PSD the thumbs up last week as the warranty will be expiring this month.

The best $20 you can spend on ANY vehicle as it nears the end of the warranty. Send them at least one sample at about the midway point so they have something to compare the final sample to.

 

[bigpete]

Black oil is the standard. If your oil is clean in these little diesels, that is the exception. I change mine more frequently than most (25-30 hours) and the soot is just part of the combustion process.

As far as the suction screen fitting and hose, ...yup...PITA. Make sure you have a fresh O-ring handy in case it is nicked or damaged. I found that "rotating" the elbow fitting while working the hose made it better, but certainly not easy. I reversed the rotation to reinstall.