2210 valve adjustment

[MDM]

Can anyone give me a rundown as to how to adjust the valves on my 2210?

Very much appreciated.

D. Moore

I found this in a previous post. Is this an accurate description?

The procedure is very simple - each of the rocker arms has an adjustment screw with jam nut. Remove the valve cover - just two bolts on top. Make sure the cylinder is at top dead center, then loosen the jam nut, stick your feeler gauge between the rocker arm and valve stem, adjust the screw so the feeler guage slips in and out with just a little resistance, then tighten the jam nut. Turn engine until the other cylinder is at top dead center, and repeat the process.

 

[greatrandini]

That is how u adjust valves on a VW Bus engine. I would think it would be about the same for our 2210's. u will need to get the valve clearences so you use the correct feeler gauge..

 

[MDM]

Is this procedure the same on both intake and exhaust valves? For example, do I make sure the cylinder is at the top of its stroke, then adjust both intake and exhaust valves for that cylinder. Then turn the motor and move on to the next cylinder. Is the there any order? ie. intake first, exhaust second.

 

[normde2001]

Is this procedure the same on both intake and exhaust valves? For example, do I make sure the cylinder is at the top of its stroke, then adjust both intake and exhaust valves for that cylinder. Then turn the motor and move on to the next cylinder. Is the there any order? ie. intake first, exhaust second.

Obviously, some common sense is required here, the piston must be at TDC of the "compression" stroke, both valves closed.

 

[MDM]

Obviously, some common sense is required here, the piston must be at TDC of the "compression" stroke, both valves closed.

Thanks Norm. I'm new to this whole process, so thanks for your patience. Please correct me if I am wrong. The piston must be TDC of the compression stroke where both intake and exhaust valves for that cylinder will be closed. Then adjust both intake/exhaust valves for that cylinder. Then turn the motor so the other piston is TDC and adjust both valves for that cylinder. Is this correct. Thanks again. This is the first engine I have had apart and I am learning a lot.

 

[normde2001]

You got it...Go for it. I mentioned that, after hearing of several guys trying to adjust valves on the exhaust stroke, with 1 or both valves slightly open, and causing a big confusing mess.

 

[California]

Just to add to the confusion ... note the 2 cylinder engines fire 180 degrees apart then coast for another 540 degrees of crankshaft rotation.

And for future reference - #1 cylinder on all Yanmars is the cylinder nearest the flywheel.

Confused yet?

 

[MDM]

Just to add to the confusion ... note the 2 cylinder engines fire 180 degrees apart then coast for another 540 degrees of crankshaft rotation.

And for future reference - #1 cylinder on all Yanmars is the cylinder nearest the flywheel.

Confused yet?

California, are you saying after I adjust the valves on the #1 cylinder, I need to turn the flywheel 540 degrees, or 1 1/2 turns, so the #2 cylinder will be TDC on it's compression stroke?

 

[MDM]

I think I understand what you are saying now. The #1 cylinder fires - crank turns 180 degrees. #2 fires, then crank turns 540 degrees. #1 will now be on top of its compression stroke, then #1 fires and so on.

So I will adjust valves on #1 at TDC then turn flywheel 180 and adjust valves on #2.

You confused me for a minute.

 

[California]

confused me for a minute.

It confused me longer than that!

 

[XmasTreeGrower]

Here's the method that I have always used that is absolutely bulletproof.

Using a breaker bar and the right size socket for the large nut that holds your crankshaft damper on, turn your motor over in the same direction as normal rotation, until the valve you wish to adjust is depressed to it's fullest and stop. Either note the position of your crankshaft damper, or make a chalk mark to note it's position (ex. 12 o'clock). Now turn the engine over exactly one revolution to where the mark on the damper comes back to the same position (12 o'clock), and stop again. Now adjust that valve with the confidence that the lifter is truly riding on the base circle of the cam at it's lowest point.

Move on the next valve, and repeat the same procedure. Don't have to worry about TDC, whether on the compression stroke or exhaust stroke, etc.

I usually mark my crankshaft damper in 90 degree increments ( one quarter "slices") with the numbers 1, 2, 3, 4 using some touch up paint. Only have to do it once, then I can readily guage the crankshaft position anytime I need to adjust the valves.

This always works on any four stroke motor because tha cam is always spinning at one-half the RPM of the engine.

Wrench with confidence!

Thanks
Bill

 

[kenmac]

What size gauge do you use? The exhaust should be different from the intake.

 

[normde2001]

"I usually mark my crankshaft damper in 90 degree increments ( one quarter "slices") with the numbers 1, 2, 3, 4 using some touch up paint. Only have to do it once, then I can readily guage the crankshaft position anytime I need to adjust the valves.'

That sounds like a lot of unnecessary work. It's easy to tell when a valve is closed.