2320 Injector Pump problems?

[AGGIE00]

To troubleshoot I would have checked the filter first, and if that passed muster then open an injection line at the injector to see what flow you get. If no flow then remove shutoff solenoid which has a normally open valve and crank again. If still no flow remove fuel line at the injection pump to check transfer pump. If you have flow there but no flow to the injectors it is the pump. If the injectors were losing their spray pattern you would have seen a lot of black smoke before the engine would completely quit running.

 

[ORCM]

So, I talked to the service manager today. He said that they have had three different Techs look at it, and they can't figure it out. He said they have sent of a DTECH to Deere, to see if anyone has experience this before.

Anyone have a tractor I can borrow?

 

[scrappy isb67]

To troubleshoot I would have checked the filter first, and if that passed muster then open an injection line at the injector to see what flow you get. If no flow then remove shutoff solenoid which has a normally open valve and crank again. If still no flow remove fuel line at the injection pump to check transfer pump. If you have flow there but no flow to the injectors it is the pump. If the injectors were losing their spray pattern you would have seen a lot of black smoke before the engine would completely quit running.

the solenoid is normally closed(power off) it only pulls when power is applied.

 

[AGGIE00]

the solenoid is normally closed(power off) it only pulls when power is applied.

Not the solenoid, the pump. Remove the solenoid and crank the tractor. If it starts stick your finger in the pump and push back the lever to shut down. Now you know if the solenoid is good without all the voltage testing.

 

[ORCM]

Not the solenoid, the pump. Remove the solenoid and crank the tractor. If it starts stick your finger in the pump and push back the lever to shut down. Now you know if the solenoid is good without all the voltage testing.

The injectors are getting plenty of fuel. I assume they have checked the timing.

 

[scrappy isb67]

Not the solenoid, the pump. Remove the solenoid and crank the tractor. If it starts stick your finger in the pump and push back the lever to shut down. Now you know if the solenoid is good without all the voltage testing.

the solinoid pushes the lever to run. without the solenoid or your finger moving the lever, it won't run

 

[AGGIE00]

the solinoid pushes the lever to run. without the solenoid or your finger moving the lever, it won't run

Only if it is opposite of my 4600. Turning the key retracts the solenoid. I know because I have been through the whole thermistor issue and tried everything before learning about the little part. I removed the solenoid and the tractor started fine. To kill I pushed in the plunger with my finger. It was also obvious because when I removed the solenoid and turned the key it retracted. Don't know why one yanmar would be different than another.

 

[AGGIE00]

The injectors are getting plenty of fuel. I assume they have checked the timing.

The only thing I can think of at this point is that the pump is worn and when the fuel heats up the pump can't push it. I've never had all the injectors go bad at once, but we have had pumps go bad gradually or after sitting up.

 

[ORCM]

Only if it is opposite of my 4600. Turning the key retracts the solenoid. I know because I have been through the whole thermistor issue and tried everything before learning about the little part. I removed the solenoid and the tractor started fine. To kill I pushed in the plunger with my finger. It was also obvious because when I removed the solenoid and turned the key it retracted. Don't know why one yanmar would be different than another.

The solenoid retracts (powered) to run.

 

[ORCM]

The only thing I can think of at this point is that the pump is worn and when the fuel heats up the pump can't push it. I've never had all the injectors go bad at once, but we have had pumps go bad gradually or after sitting up.

The tractor only has 330hrs. Shouldn't be anywhere near wore out. The Tech. Said those injection pumps are built proof. However I think there about ready to shoot it.

 

[tomd999]

Hiya,
Last injection pump I had go south acted the same way. Going down the road the truck shut off, rolled to a stop, it fired up again, I started to pull on the road, it died and from then on, it would start, run for about a second and shut off. Had it towed to a shop, they played games for 2 days. Got fed up with them, had it towed to a certified Cummins shop, they tried to start it, when it did it's one second fire and die, they said, pumps bad. Changed the pump and it was like new again.

Not trying to throw cold water on your hopes but just recounting what I went through.

Tom

 

[ORCM]

Okay, so I have had time to tell the whole story on this.. You might want to grab some popcorn.. Well, and maybe some tissues too.

I posted a topic about 2 months ago about my Drive line U-Joint blowing up, because it never got greased for over 300hrs.. One minor thing Deere forgot to list as a lube point in the manual, until recently. Well Deere did step up to the plate and cover the new shaft, even though it was out of warrenty.... And here the story starts....

I used the tractor for a few hours after it got the shaft repair, and I noticed that I was getting oil on top of the mower deck and on the shop floor. At first I thought it was just left over used oil that had got down in the frame when I changed the oil (Right after I got the tractor back.). However, there was too much of it and it was clear. I couldn't tell where it was coming from, so I had to pull the dash and the floor board off (For the second time.). I found the the steering valve was leaking around the bottom of the housing, but I couldn't tell exactly where. Knowing that the shaft had flopped around there, I wondered if the shaft had smacked it and cracked the housing... After ripping the whole dash apart I got the valve out, and didn't find any obvious damage. There is 7 bolts on the bottom cap, and I re-torqued them. 2-3 of them were loose. Hoping this was the problem, I put everything back together except for the dash. I went to start the tractor to test my work, but it would fire for about a second and that was it. I thought, oh I must have knocked a connector lose or got something wet when I was cleaning all the oil up. After trouble shooting it for 2 days, and called the dealer and told them to come and get it.:confused2:

And here we are, and I still haven't got an answer from the dealer. I also still don't know if my stearing valve is still leaking.

 

[ORCM]

Talked to the dealer, and they pulled the pump of to send it in to get it rebuilt. So, 2320 injector pumps only last 330hrs?

 

[ORCM]

So, I still don't have my tractor back, and its been in the shop for over a month....

The dealer sent the pump in as instructed by Deere, and it check out okay. Which is not supprising since the tractor only has 330 hrs. The service manager told me that they think it has something to do with the timing, and that he had three Techs working on it. I've never done it but I have read the proceedure in the service manual, and it doesnt look that difficult. This was friday just afternoon, and he said he thought they almost had it. However I never did get a call back. He has been appologetic about it, but I still dont have my tractor. I mean come on, this is a certified Deere dealer and they can't fix their own equipment in a resonable amount of time... Their shop fee is $95 an hour, so you would think you would get what you pay for. I mentioned to him that if I didn't get it back soon I wanted a loaner. I'm trying to put a garden in for my wife, and she is not happy with the progress..

What should I do?... Its been on my mind to upgrade to the 3x20 series. Should I hit them up to make it right and give me a dealer invoice deal/or? on a new tractor?? Is that fair?

 

[ORCM]

Well finally some good news. The dealer is bringing over a loner today.

 

[ORCM]

This is what I call a loaner!

 

[ORCM]

Stopped by the dealer today with my dad, because he needed an oil filter. Had a chat with the service manager, and they don't know what's wrong yet (Neither does Deere.). Their going to start tearing the motor apart next.

 

[yelbike]

Nice loaner:thumbsup:.....I bet you won't be hassling them for it back now.:laughing:

Is it under warranty?

 

[ORCM]

Nice loaner:thumbsup:.....I bet you won't be hassling them for it back now.:laughing:

Is it under warranty?

I told him I'm not in a big hurry, in fact I don't really want the tractor back..


No, its out of warranty. 330hrs.. Sounds like since Deere/Dealer can't figure it out they are going to cover at least some of it..

 

[ORCM]

Well got a call from the service manager this evening, and it was not a happy conversation to say the lest. They started to tear down the motor and from what he told me the valves were gone. They also pulled one piston and the rings were stuck. The mechanic told him that he thinks that gas was dumped in it and wasn't lubing the top end.. There is NO WAY that put gas in the tractor! I have a Gal transfer tank that I fill from a local fuel company. I still question this thinking, but I'm not a diesel mechanic.. At this point I don't know what to do, the tractor is out of warranty and the dealer is saying that I dumped gas in it. So there would be no way to push back on Deere.

I'm going in tomorrow to talk to the service manager, and take a look at the motor. I'm wondering since they have had it over a month, and multiplele people trying to trouble shoot it that they jacked it up some how.