2320 mower height selection knob

[tofriendscreek]

I am like ZYTHINL. I take my deck on and off all the time, change cutting height from time to time. Zero problem adjusting it with the control knob. To cut at 3" or so my deck knob is 1 click up from the 'M' and when I raise it the bottom of the deck is at 6 1/2" inches off the ground. I set the deck wheels with i think 4 holes showing. Almost never does one of them dug into the ground. It's all in the setup. Once its set correctly, mine have always stayed set. This was true on my 2210, 2305 and my current 2320.
There are a number of posts dealing with this subject.

 

[saskman49]

I have said it before and I'll say it again, if the upstop limiter is set correctly that the adjuster knob will turn a full 360 degrees you can set your deck height properly and when in the locked position the deck won't drop more than 1/2 an inch.

 

[Dale1995]

So your theory on this problem is that the upstop limiter is not set properly and the mower height control knob should be able to rotate fully? How do you go about setting this properly?

 

[thatguy]

So your theory on this problem is that the upstop limiter is not set properly and the mower height control knob should be able to rotate fully? How do you go about setting this properly?

Im bumping this from the past for more input..

I sent Saskman49 a PM asking for clarification on which way the upstop limiter should be moved.. In other posts he says to be careful or you can damage stuff if you move it too much (he moved his 2.5 turns) - but he never said whether he moved it up or down the threaded rod which make me hesitant to adjust anything in fear of damaging something..

From what I found in other posts - the knob is suppose to go all the way around without hitting the part #5 (which makes having the decal properly installed sorta important)..

The 'ear' (between part #'s 11 & 12 in the diagram) is what contacts the #5 cam.. In my case the ear needs about 1/2" more room to get to the largest part of the cam.. When properly adjusted, and the knob in the LOCK position, the ear will hit the largest part of the cam and hold up the MMM with very little drop. currently mine hits the cam at the first step down so the deck drops several inches when locked up.

Someone adjusted the part #23 so the ear and cam were adjusted properly.. I do not know what the difference between adjusting the upstop limiter VS the #23 is different though..

I did measure the drop on the mmm lift arms at various knob settings and they are in 1/2" increments it seems..

Does anyone know if you can buy a new decal - easier solution than moving the cam it seems? Or can you remove/adjust/replace just the knob handle?

thoughts

Brian

 

[cttractor]

Im bumping this from the past for more input..

I sent Saskman49 a PM asking for clarification on which way the upstop limiter should be moved.. In other posts he says to be careful or you can damage stuff if you move it too much (he moved his 2.5 turns) - but he never said whether he moved it up or down the threaded rod which make me hesitant to adjust anything in fear of damaging something..

From what I found in other posts - the knob is suppose to go all the way around without hitting the part #5 (which makes having the decal properly installed sorta important)..

The 'ear' (between part #'s 11 & 12 in the diagram) is what contacts the #5 cam.. In my case the ear needs about 1/2" more room to get to the largest part of the cam.. When properly adjusted, and the knob in the LOCK position, the ear will hit the largest part of the cam and hold up the MMM with very little drop. currently mine hits the cam at the first step down so the deck drops several inches when locked up.

Someone adjusted the part #23 so the ear and cam were adjusted properly.. I do not know what the difference between adjusting the upstop limiter VS the #23 is different though..

I did measure the drop on the mmm lift arms at various knob settings and they are in 1/2" increments it seems..

Does anyone know if you can buy a new decal - easier solution than moving the cam it seems? Or can you remove/adjust/replace just the knob handle?

thoughts

Brian

Unfortunately, the largest lobe (which is used for the "locked up" position) that the deck height knob controls allows the mower to drop 1.0 - 1.5 inches or so from its highest position. So, we definitely lose that ground clearance. JD obviously couldn't have made it so no height was lost or we'd never be able to rotate the deck knob to the locked position; they had to allow some clearance. But limiting it to a half inch drop or so would have been nice.

I'm not sure what part number 23 does. It's not part of the mechanical lift kit or independent lift kit parts list that I have in the installation manual.

I suspect you can buy another decal for the deck height knob. Your biggest challenge might be getting its part number. Also, don't be surprised if the price is more than you think it should be for something as simple as a decal.

My setting for a 3" high cut is to rotate the knob two-clicks counter-clockwise from the locked position. I like that height of cut because a fresh owing looks good, it's not too high, and it's high enough to protect the root system when the weather is very hot.

It might help your understanding to crawl under your tractor when you have the mower off and look up at the cam -- that helped me. Of course, the tractor should be on level ground, turned off, and the parking brake set (as a businessman, limiting liability is important

I hope this helps.

 

[thatguy]

Quote: Unfortunately, the largest lobe (which is used for the "locked up" position) that the deck height knob controls allows the mower to drop 1.0 - 1.5 inches or so from its highest position.

My reply - I had my wife lower the 3pt while i was under the tractor to see how everything worked (tractor off, mmm off) currently my ear hits at the first step down from what should be the lock position and it appears to me that if i adjusted the 'ear' to hit the biggest cam part it would drop only slightly..

Quote:I'm not sure what part number 23 does. It's not part of the mechanical lift kit or independent lift kit parts list that I have in the installation manual.

My reply - part #23 on my tractor is what connects the MMM lift mechanism to the 3pt hitch and cause the MMM to raise/lower.. if you look at post #8 here you can see the a pic showing how #23 ties into the 3pt. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/john-deere-owning-operating/168020-2320.html

here is direct link to the pic - #23 is in the lower left hand corner, the goldish looking part

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/.../161028d1270768466-2320-tractor-stuff-008.jpg

Quote: It might help your understanding to crawl under your tractor when you have the mower off and look up at the cam -- that helped me.

my reply - that is what I did on sunday and I finally got my best understanding of how i think it works..


thanks..

Brian

 

[cttractor]

Quote: I had my wife lower the 3pt while i was under the tractor to see how everything worked (tractor off, mmm off) currently my ear hits at the first step down from what should be the lock position and it appears to me that if i adjusted the 'ear' to hit the biggest cam part it would drop only slightly..

Please let us know the results of that adjustment if you make it and whether it limits the drop like you suspect.

Quote: part #23 on my tractor is what connects the MMM lift mechanism to the 3pt hitch and cause the MMM to raise/lower.. if you look at post #8 here you can see the a pic showing how #23 ties into the 3pt. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/john-deere-owning-operating/168020-2320.html

here is direct link to the pic - #23 is in the lower left hand corner, the goldish looking part

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/.../161028d1270768466-2320-tractor-stuff-008.jpg

I just looked at that photo (thanks for that!) It's different from the parts shown in my manual for the Mechanical Lift and the Independent Lift. I bought the Independent kit and am sorry I did. There's just no time that I will cut my grass with extra weight on the 3pt. or the loader installed because it tears up the grass more than without that stuff on the machine. I'll bet that link rod we're discussing was removed when the Independent Lift was installed.

Quote: that is what I did on sunday and I finally got my best understanding of how i think it works..

thanks..

You're very welcome! I look forward to hearing of your adjustment of that ear. And don't be bashful about asking if you'd like me to look at something on my machine and report back if it might be of help to you. Jerry

 

[thatguy]

Since its only 80 degrees today and somewhat lower humidity - I got off work a few hours early to play with getting the height knob adjusted correctly

I was able to adjust (shortened) the part #21 (turnbuckle) on #23 about 2 or 3 turns BUT the ear is still about 1/8" from being able to clear the cam at the biggest part -but there wasnt anymore 'slack' to tighten it anymore..

So now I am going to have to adjust the upstop limiter if I want this to work correctly..

Im going to post a question in the forum on advice to adjust the upstop limiter..

Brian

 

[sal64]

i have the ind lift on my 2320 all the lobs should have been 1/4 inch higher except the top one, so you can get more adjustment i mow on the second one from the top lock possition the rest are to low, it a poor dezine.and it drops to quick im always lifting it.

 

[thatguy]

Found out a little more information on another board..

On the MMM there is a big (4"x6") square piece of metal plate at the front edge of the mower (inline with the gear box)- This plate is what keeps the MMM from raising up too high and hitting the under carriage of the tractor.. Based on the operators manual - this plate should be about 2 to 3mm away from the tractor..

SO, I reckon this is how you tell when the upstop limiter is correctly adjusted.. I probably have 1/2" to 3/4" of space between the plate and the undercarriage on my tractor..

brian