2320 Work lights

[2Malamutes]

I just purchased a 2320, and when snowblowing I really need some additional front lighting. I bought and installed the rear work light kit, and it looks like there is only the one pair of connectors for auxiliary lighting. From the JD parts catalog it looks like the front kit comes with a Y adapter, and I am thinking that using one Y off the existing connection would give me a connection for the rear work lights and a spot for another Y to the front kit. Is that too much load on the factory wiring/switch? Also if the 886 bulbs are 50W, 12V, 5 lights is going to put a pretty good load on the 20A alternator unless my math is wrong. Anyone gone to the 35A and does it make a difference?

 

[kvjohndeere]

I just purchased a 2320, and when snowblowing I really need some additional front lighting. I bought and installed the rear work light kit, and it looks like there is only the one pair of connectors for auxiliary lighting. From the JD parts catalog it looks like the front kit comes with a Y adapter, and I am thinking that using one Y off the existing connection would give me a connection for the rear work lights and a spot for another Y to the front kit. Is that too much load on the factory wiring/switch? Also if the 886 bulbs are 50W, 12V, 5 lights is going to put a pretty good load on the 20A alternator unless my math is wrong. Anyone gone to the 35A and does it make a difference?

I have two Auxillary work lights my dealer installed Both Are front work lights But I just turned one two the The front & one to the rear Seems too work great ! I think The factory alternator should be fine ! Now if Had a cab with stereos & a heater & such yeap The 35 amp would be the way to go ! That is just my thinking My dealer wouldnt of installed my two work lights If they thought I needed the biggger alternator I even asked if I needed it ! Take care !2 Malamutes

 

[2Malamutes]

I have two Auxillary work lights my dealer installed Both Are front work lights But I just turned one two the The front & one to the rear Seems too work great ! I think The factory alternator should be fine ! Now if Had a cab with stereos & a heater & such yeap The 35 amp would be the way to go ! That is just my thinking My dealer wouldnt of installed my two work lights If they thought I needed the biggger alternator I even asked if I needed it ! Take care !2 Malamutes

Thanks, I thought about doing just that but with the bucket on I see a lot of people referring to how well the front headlights illuminate the back of the bucket so I think I'm going to want 2 front (illuminating the work) and 1 rear. Assuming I'm using the correct wattage of 50W for the GE 886, each light by calculation is rated at a little over 4A, so 5 lights are rated at over 20A, irrespective of other electrical loads. I'm going to stop at the dealer this morning and ask them what they think.

 

[bxowner]

The most frustrating time that I need light is when the bucket is low - but not low enough to let the regular headlights do their work... Rarely do I find a problem with lighting when the bucket is up high, as it's usually only brief - such as when dumping snow - and once the bucket gets near eye-level, the headlights take over.

On my 2320, I have the 2 front lamp kit from JD mounted to the ROPS... and put a Hella dual beam (110w) rear work lamp mounted to the SCV location behind the seat... The front illumination is fine - but not until I put some deflectors on the lamps to keep the light from shining in the corner of my eye. I found every time I looked anywhere but straight ahead, I'd be blinded.

Which leads me to my point... there are holes located on the top of the FEL towers where the FEL arms pivot (if you look at tower where the '200cx' sticker is located, look at the very top and see a single hole - right where the pivot point for the loader arms is located0). I think that these would be a great mounting point for light brackets, because they're ahead of the operator and at the highest point of the bucket assemby. You'd have to have the bucket pretty high up to obscure the light and, by then, the regular headlights would take over. Also, there's enough room around the pivot point (including when the loader is in its 'removed' position) for the loader arm to move freely without interfering with a bracket. The trick would be to put a quick-connect electrical connection low enough so that it would be easy to disconnect at the same time as the hydraulic lines.

 

[Woody71]

I have the 2 front and 1 rear worklight kits on my 2320. I have been using it this way all winter since it is usually dark when I need to plow snow. I had purchased 2 rear worklights, but the documentation says not to install more than one, so didn't bother installing the second one. One seems to provide enough light for me anyway. If the alternator quits, I guess I will go to the 35A.

 

[2Malamutes]

I have the 2 front and 1 rear worklight kits on my 2320. I have been using it this way all winter since it is usually dark when I need to plow snow.

Do you have all three running off the pair (+/-) of factory bullet connectors? Thanks.

If the alternator quits, I guess I will go to the 35A.

Given that the 35A is $400, I think I'll go that route as well.

 

[BigD9]

BXOWNER, I also looked at those holes to mount lights. Like you I figured the fel arms would have to be up pretty high to interfere with the light. Then I started to look at offsetting the lights to the inside, but still connected to that hole. I think that is the approach I will take.

 

[Woody71]

Do you have all three running off the pair (+/-) of factory bullet connectors? Thanks.

Behind the seat are 2 pairs of bullet connectors. On one pair I installed the "Y" connector to drive both the front and rear light. I have the front auxiliary lights turned slightly outwards to prevent them from shining in my eyes too much when looking to the side or to the rear.

 

[Mackinac Joe]

2Malamutes,

I purchased two forward and one rear work lights from Deere for my 2320. I hooked them up using the factory "Y" harnesses and bullet connectors. All three worklights and both headlights and both rear red lights illuminate when the light switch is in the middle position.

No blown fuses and no alternator problems.

Mackinac Joe

 

[BigD9]

Where did you mount the lights Mackinac Joe? Any pictures by chance?

 

[Mackinac Joe]

Pete,

All three of my work lights are mounted on the center of the ROPS,
hanging below it.









Deere says to mount the worklights on optional brush guards that mount
around the flashers. Near as I can tell, that's why Deere says the
front work light kit (2 lights) is not compatible with the rear work
light kit (1 light) -- three lights won't mount on only two brush guards!

I could find no pre-drilled holes to mount the lights anywhere else
and I didn't want to pay the $$ for the brush guards. Nor did I want
any more lights hanging outside the ROPS, since I do a lot of work in
the woods and would surely shear them off with a tree branch.

I did not drill or weld on the ROPS (TBN safety police ). So
I used a pair of 2" square U-bolts to mount each work light to the
ROPS. The 2" square U-bolt fits very nicely over the ROPS tube with no
spacers needed.

I had to fabricate a cable extension for the center work light (which
I have pointed rearward) because that light is the furthest from the
wiring harness under the seat and Deere's cable just isn't long
enough. Deere assumes you will follow their instructions and mount the
light lower on the ROPS. But I easily found the bullet connectors and
wire at the NAPA store.

My cables are protected with flex tube and tie-wrapped down the ROPS
until they get to the ROPS folding hinge, at which point I snake them
inside the ROPS tube.

I'm 5' 8" and my head is nowhere near interfering with the lamps or the light they shine.

It's not a prettiest setup, but it's a good combination of easy,
flexible, cheap, and safe. And with three floodlights I can now light up the
world!

Mackinac Joe

 

[BigD9]

Good job! I'm not sure if mounting them on a brush guard on the blinker lights would gain you much. Looks like that would still be to low. Your idea looks like the best height and the least amount of light interference when you look to the sides and back.

Good Job

 

[2Malamutes]

Good job! I'm not sure if mounting them on a brush guard on the blinker lights would gain you much. Looks like that would still be to low. Your idea looks like the best height and the least amount of light interference when you look to the sides and back.

I'd agree that solution is best from a lighting standpoint, but unfortunately I have to have the ROPS folded down to get it in the garage. There is no need in the winter for me to have the ROPS up for blowing the drive, so even though I agree the top of the ROPS would provide the best light, it isn't an option for me. The brush guards the lights mount to cost me like $30, and I had a credit at the dealership so I'll post pics once I get everything installed.

 

[Woody71]

Joe,

The way you have the lights mounted probably gives the best overall visibility, but like 2Malamutes, I need to fold my ROPS to get in the garage. I have them attached exactly like the Deere instructions explain. The rear facing light attaches on the bolt holding the flasher/guard assembly in place.

 

[2305JD]

What did the light kit and mounting frames cost all together??

 

[Mackinac Joe]

Mounting those lights on the brush guards is infinitely better than shearing off a garage door!

The rear facing light attaches on the bolt holding the flasher/guard assembly in place.

Woody71, so do you have a total of three work lights, or just two? My dealer told me Deere says the front and rear worklight kits are incompatible with each other, and I assumed it was due to the lack of a third "approved" mounting location.

Joe

 

[fgross335_2210]

I have a 2210 with the std 20 amp alternator. I run the std front lights, one rear work light, plus a pair of 55W fog lights on the rops facing forward. According to the math it's more than 20 amps, but we run all five lights all winter long and have not had a problem with the battery in 4 plus years.

 

[2Malamutes]

What did the light kit and mounting frames cost all together??

I believe it was under $100, but I don't have the paperwork in front of me and there were other things on the order as well, but I'm pretty sure that is accurate.

 

[2Malamutes]

Woody71, so do you have a total of three work lights, or just two? My dealer told me Deere says the front and rear worklight kits are incompatible with each other, and I assumed it was due to the lack of a third "approved" mounting location.

From what I have been able to determine, it is only the 2305, 3203 and 4105 (not the 2320 or 2520) that Deere states is incompatible with both kits. I believe the reason for that is those models have only one pair of bullet connectors instead of the two as on the 2320 (this could be wrong, I am going off of my friends 2210, which I believe is now the 2305.) The front kit from Deere comes with a Y to allow the 2 factory pairs of bullet connectors to power 3 lights. Deere suggests mounting the 3 lights exactly as Woody71 shows in his pictures.

 

[PCABE5]

Are you going to run the lights off the factory switch or install another switch to control the aux lights?