Snow 2360 cutting edge reversible?
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mgstevens
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Simple answer: not twin-edged (like a thickness planer blade for example..)
operators manual does not reference it at all..
parts manual shows this for the part #4263527M1 (7-8 years ago people say it was selling for $60 at the dealer..)
Finally, a post from 8 years ago discussing the need for a new blade and options for other materials...
https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...ng/269172-2360-snow-blower-scraper-blade.html
Hopefully answers the question.
operators manual does not reference it at all..
parts manual shows this for the part #4263527M1 (7-8 years ago people say it was selling for $60 at the dealer..)
Finally, a post from 8 years ago discussing the need for a new blade and options for other materials...
https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...ng/269172-2360-snow-blower-scraper-blade.html
Hopefully answers the question.
Absolutely!
You might want to get some additional bolts & nuts, as when the edge is worn back --and if you keep the feet retracted so it's scraping on pavement as I do-- you may find that the nuts have been ground down, too.
It's also a very good idea to use an angle grinder to smooth up the old edge. Take my word for it, it can have some VERY sharp areas on it! I find it works best to flip it end-for-end; that way you can have a sloped surface against the backing plate -- makes it easier easier to clean snow out after blowing.
Here's an edge that's all done -- (PS - the old edge can be cut up for those welding projects that need smallish pieces --)
You might want to get some additional bolts & nuts, as when the edge is worn back --and if you keep the feet retracted so it's scraping on pavement as I do-- you may find that the nuts have been ground down, too.
It's also a very good idea to use an angle grinder to smooth up the old edge. Take my word for it, it can have some VERY sharp areas on it! I find it works best to flip it end-for-end; that way you can have a sloped surface against the backing plate -- makes it easier easier to clean snow out after blowing.
Here's an edge that's all done -- (PS - the old edge can be cut up for those welding projects that need smallish pieces --)
Yeah, Stevens, that was me in your link, back in 2013. My 2310's now on it 13th winter; think I've been through 4 or 5 blades for the 2360 now, currently experimenting with some UHMWPE.
For those who prefer to use the OEM steel blade, here's a tip: buy one from a Kubota dealer -- quite a bit less expensive, I've found, at least around here. RAD Technologies (in Canada) makes the blowers for Massey, Kubota and I think New Holland; I have a Kubota dealer about 1/2 hr away but the nearest Massey dealer is 1-1/2 hrs away. Not sure what the current Massey price is, but I was quoted less than $50 last week at my "local" Kubota dealer for what they call the "Cutting Edge" -- Kubota part #70060-03528. Same thing.
One thing in favor of the OEM edge -- it must be hardened steel; I've used locally-made mild steel blades and found they didn't last nearly as long (but at least they were 1/2 the price).
For those who prefer to use the OEM steel blade, here's a tip: buy one from a Kubota dealer -- quite a bit less expensive, I've found, at least around here. RAD Technologies (in Canada) makes the blowers for Massey, Kubota and I think New Holland; I have a Kubota dealer about 1/2 hr away but the nearest Massey dealer is 1-1/2 hrs away. Not sure what the current Massey price is, but I was quoted less than $50 last week at my "local" Kubota dealer for what they call the "Cutting Edge" -- Kubota part #70060-03528. Same thing.
One thing in favor of the OEM edge -- it must be hardened steel; I've used locally-made mild steel blades and found they didn't last nearly as long (but at least they were 1/2 the price).
Well, that's interesting! On mine (and others I've seen), the cutting edge is on the INSIDE of the blower, not on the underside as yours is. The rounded tops of the carriage bolts are also on the inside.... Unless I'm not looking at yours correctly? That works OK?
Yup, works fine. I would believe that it came like that due to the paint. The side that was down is painted and you can see where it was mounted. That’s at least how it was when I acquired it.
Well I'll be darned. Never thought of mounting it that way.
Just went and looked in my parts book and operator's manual and finally found a drawing that definitely shows it on the inside. I got mine new from the factory when I ordered my 2310 -- the blower was my MAIN reason for getting the tractor-- and it came on the inside, so I've always put it back the same way. I can see where mounting it beneath might give it more wear area (and maybe last longer?).... Interesting.
Just went and looked in my parts book and operator's manual and finally found a drawing that definitely shows it on the inside. I got mine new from the factory when I ordered my 2310 -- the blower was my MAIN reason for getting the tractor-- and it came on the inside, so I've always put it back the same way. I can see where mounting it beneath might give it more wear area (and maybe last longer?).... Interesting.
Not sure -- I've been thinking about the stresses that might create, as opposed to mounting it on the inside. Not sure if it makes a huge difference, but it certainly would seem that you could get more "miles" out of the scraper that way.
At least in my situation -- a north-facing slope which used to be gravel but is now paved-- if I can scrape it down to or nearly to the pavement, if we get any sun at all it will clear itself off fairly quickly. If I don't get it scraped down sufficiently, any sun will create melting at the top, water flowing downhill, then black ice by the next morning. Not good. So anything that helps get it scraped all the way down to the pavement is good. Yeah, I tend to be rough on my scraper blades, but any cars trying to get out of my driveway appreciate it.
Think I'm going to try that!
At least in my situation -- a north-facing slope which used to be gravel but is now paved-- if I can scrape it down to or nearly to the pavement, if we get any sun at all it will clear itself off fairly quickly. If I don't get it scraped down sufficiently, any sun will create melting at the top, water flowing downhill, then black ice by the next morning. Not good. So anything that helps get it scraped all the way down to the pavement is good. Yeah, I tend to be rough on my scraper blades, but any cars trying to get out of my driveway appreciate it.
Think I'm going to try that!
We are almost identical in circumstance, I do about a mile and a half of private road. It’s called Up Hill Rd for a reason. Also north facing, lol.
From my driveway down
From my driveway up
It’s near 45 degrees for the top half.
JWR
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Notice that in Fig. 8 there is a skid of some kind that should (on the level at least) keep the cutting edge from ground or pavement contact. I realize that is going to vary and there will be ground contact at times. Several of these guys must use the heck out of their snowblowers (where my use is very little and far between compared to them.) I will comment that I have found I pick up a lot less gravel by fine tuning the angle of the blower so the edge is NOT digging down into the pavement or gravel. I use an Agro-Trend 5ft blower on a Kubota B2150. Great combo esp with the creeper gear on the Kubota and a nice FEL on the other end. Nearly all the blowers I found are Canadian made. I am attracted to the idea of a replaceable skid rather replacing the knife edge if mine ever got worn that much.
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So development, we had about 4” or so today and I got to try it out with the cutting edge “new”. Twice it got caught and bended 1 end down. After hammering it back into shape, I mounted it on the inside as the manual shows.
It was on the most wore end, I surmise that with all of the material gone it wasn’t strong enough to fight that force.
It was on the most wore end, I surmise that with all of the material gone it wasn’t strong enough to fight that force.
JWR -- my goal is to scrape right down to the pavement as much as I can, so what I've done with mine is to reverse the skids shown in the drawing above, then raising them so they're entirely out of the way. All force rests on that scraper blade, which rides right on the pavement. In the early winter, when I go up by the mailbox on our dirt road, I remove the blower and use the FEL until the ground really freezes -- and all the rocks are out of the way.
No, it's not the way it's supposed to be, and it is rough on the blades, but that's the way I do it. Interestingly, the pavement actually shows little wear from being scraped all the time.
Before the driveway was paved, yes, I kept the skids down so I had about 1/2" of clearance. (Still managed to catch rocks, though...)
Gotta go out now & hit the driveway again....
No, it's not the way it's supposed to be, and it is rough on the blades, but that's the way I do it. Interestingly, the pavement actually shows little wear from being scraped all the time.
Before the driveway was paved, yes, I kept the skids down so I had about 1/2" of clearance. (Still managed to catch rocks, though...)
Gotta go out now & hit the driveway again....
JWR
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Of course. Understood. Each of us has to do what works and seems best in (widely varied) circumstances.
I have also tried 1/2" thick very hard plastic (forget the trade name for it, very durable surprising stuff, poly something) which you have to saw into the size you need and drill holes for the bolts, etc. That worked well for me as a bolt on edge on a larger than std FEL bucket I was using for nothing but snow removal. Avoids pavement damage and the unnerving scrape sounds, etc.
piercedtiger
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Good to know! Just picked up a 2360 last week for my 2011 GC2600. My MF dealer is 45 minutes away, but there's a Kubota dealer half a mile from me. And their main location 20 minutes away. I've seen other posts about the blowers being identical, and it makes me wonder if I can get an electric or hydraulic rotator for less than MF wants. I was quoted $450 and $750, respectively. Already planning on a linear actuator from Amazon for the deflector as they have them for $80 or less, vs MF wanting $560 for their kit.
piercedtiger
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I have gravel sections too. Just got the blower so I set the skids at 1/2" for some clearance, and have a box blade on back for added weight with the benefit of being able to scrape or push back. Will see how it works once we get enough snow to really give it a work out again.
