24-ft manlift implement for my loader

[Treemonkey1000]

Nice to have the brain tools and time to do that kind of stuff. Thanks for showing the process. I am always looking for easier ways to do my tree work. So far climbing spurs, flip lines and rope are the best way.

 

[Farmerford]

dfkrug:

I still can't figure out exactly how each section makes the next one move up with it. I hope you send some pictures all along so perhaps I can understand it.

I am with Sherweld; considering your past projects I have no doubt that this one will be well thought out and very useful.

 

[dfkrug]

I still can't figure out exactly how each section makes the next one move up with it. I hope you send some pictures all along so perhaps I can understand it.

The are 4 sets of pulleys and chains. The cylinder pushes up on the
axle of the first pulley, which is attached to the top of the 2nd stage. The
first stage is stationary, attached to the base. The chain goes over the
pulley and one end attaches to the stationary stage, and the other end
attaches to stage 3. If you can see how stage 2's chain acts on stages 1 and 3, then then another pulley is at the top of stage 3, and its chain is
attached to stages 2 and 4. Clear as mud? Perhaps I can draw a sketch
and scan it later. It won't be pretty.

Since chain has little resistance when you push it, the cables keep everything
tight (hold the stages down).

Here are some pix of the chains and pulleys, after I got everything cleaned
up and re-assembled. In the first photo, you see the socket head bolts.
The roller caps rub inside the stage's channel, and the shims (see prev
photo) give you the correct clearance. The channels are waxed before
final assembly. The second photo is an end view where you can see all
the stages, each with different size chains and pulleys.

The chain is not your garden variety roller chain, like you have on your
bicycle. It is called "leaf chain", which is much stronger and much more
expensive. Each segment is made of multiple plates or leaves. Forklift
enthusiasts know about this stuff. I cleaned all of mine and all were within
spec, so I did not replace them. All lubed up with gear oil, too.

Next will be the framework.

 

[dfkrug]

Rebuilding the telescoping stages was the hard part; the custom
frame was quite easy in comparison. The photos are pretty
self-explanatory.

I used some 4x4 thick walled tubing along with some larger rectangular
tubing for the forks. From the original frame, I chopped off the angle
steel that supported the base of the hydraulic cylinder. I added some
bracing and the result is in the second photo. It is quite heavy and
stiff.

To brace the first (stationary) stage to the fork frame, I used 3/4" ID
DOM tubing and .30" plate. The outer 2 braces are IMC conduit
(1 5/16" OD, 1/8" wall) welded to more DOM. All attached, there is
no discernable play in any of the stationary elements.

 

[dfkrug]

Maybe this helps describe how this thing works.

Stage 1 is attached to the base.

The hyd cylinder pushes up on the pulley (red) on the top of Stage 2.
Since one end of the chain on that pulley is anchored to Stage 1, the
other end pulls up on Stage 3. As Stage 3 goes up, ITS pulley does
the same thing as the cylinder did to Stage 2, but this time to Stage 4.

 

[dfkrug]

Finally there are the electrical and hydraulic systems.

I kept the Genie's Fenner 12V hydraulic power pack, which delivers
2000 psi to the cylinder through 1/8" plastic hoses. Two solenoid-
operated spool valves control the up and down for the single-acting
cylinder. I replaced the fluid (ATF) before I operated anything.

I am using the tractor's battery, and new 4-guage cables, hardwired to
the contactor solenoid and chassis ground. The motor draws about
100 amps, so I have decided to forego any plug/socket arrangement for
power. You can see where I made grommetted holes in the tractor's
grille for power. Generally, I will keep the tractor running while using
the manlift in order to keep the battery charged. I can see my parking
lights dim a bit when I run the power pack motor. I certainly could have
converted to the tractor's hydraulics to run the lift, but that would have
required plumbing auxilliary lines, and use of a flow divider to reduce
the flow to 1GPM. I would have done that if the Fenner power pack was
bad.

Most of the Genie's existing electrical system was composed of safety
interlocks for each of 4 outriggers, as well as keyed enable and 120VAC
power for the basket. I replaced it all with 2 simple waterproof momentary
SPDT toggle switches, one for the basket, and one on the frame.

The wire to the man basket goes thru several plastic pulleys, including one
I added, so there is no slack in any position. I bought some coiled wire
and use a lead weight to achieve this (3rd, 4th pix).

Next: the final pix and video

 

[porta mill]

all I can say is make sure your out riggers are well placed and the unit is level . I used to use one where I used to work that lift gave more than one person brown underware . they are not very sturdy when they are fully extended . I just purchased a used van with a bucket lift, I much rather the van than the unit you have only paid $700.That being said good luck and be safe.

 

[dfkrug]

Here are the final pix. I also made a 4-minute video, which is posted on
Youtube:
YouTube - manlift_attach.wmv

In the first 2 photos, you can see how I use the loader to plant the base
of the tractor firmly against the ground. My intent is to use the lift
only with the loader down, leveled fore-and-aft as well as left-right. I
plan to add a bubble level in the future for easier 2-dimensional leveling.
Now I just use a 2-foot level in the basket. Left-right leveling is
accomplished by using the backhoe outriggers, though I generally try
to position the tractor level in that dimension.

I first tested the lift up to max height with the basket empty, and a rope
attached to the basket. I pulled sideways on the rope to see how much
sway I could generate, and how stable the base was. The results were
excellent, whether or not the backhoe outriggers were down.

In the last photo, I have set up the tractor on pavement with a slight
slope to the right. Notice the right hoe outrigger holds the right wheel
several inches off the ground to provide a level basket.

Everything works great, and I have already used it to trim some trees,
finish the last panels of a metal roof install, clean my gutters (20' up),
clean some windows, and check soffits for bats (24' up). Soon I will
add some sort of tool holder.

 

[teg]

WOW!!! :shocked::shocked::shocked: Great Job!

 

[relaqbr]

Here are the final pix. I also made a 4-minute video, which is posted on
Youtube:
YouTube - manlift_attach.wmv

add some sort of tool holder.

Very Very nice.