2410 Differential Lock

[rbargeron]

Don't worry - tractor gearing is VERY strong. None of the loads from forced tire slippage on pavement is even close to what it would take to damage the gear teeth. About the only times gears get broken is when you run your non-shear-pin rotary cutter into a rock ledge and let it keep slamming away - and most of us avoid that sort of thing.

A stuck differential lock collar is definitely a nuissance the dealer should fix, but will cause no damage (except torn up lawns and scuff marks on the driveway).

 

[Westbilly]

Thanks, with that info, I do feel better. The tractor is now gone. I expect to hear something Wednesday. I will let you know as soon as I hear something. I can remember using the diff lock in reverse once before, and it came out without incident. But I have read the manual many times and never read a warning about no reverse, so I am gald I didn't miss anything.

2410 FEL LA352

 

[BruceW]

I have a 3010 and the few times I have had to resort to the diff lock have been in reverse, usually trying to back out of somewhere I shouldn't have been in the first place. The diff lock has always been effective and trouble free when used in reverse.

 

[Westbilly]

I got the tractor back today. They found it to be operating normally. They said, "If you use Diff lock in 4WD it will stay in diff lock until you shift from 4WD and release it." I don't know if I buy that. It does seem to be operating normal now. I took it down the hill and checked it.

2410 FEL LA352

 

[TWINKLE_TOES]

Westbilly,
Glad to hear your tractor is back and running normal./w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

<font color=blue>"If you use Diff lock in 4WD it will stay in diff lock until you shift from 4WD and release it." </font color=blue> Guess I'll have to take my tractors in for fixen, neither of them work like that. Have you checked out the differential lock in 4 wheel drive yet? I can't blame you if your waiting a while to build up courage./w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif
Al

 

[kubmech]

I'm wondering what they did to get it out of diff lock. Normally the diff lock should release once you take the load off of the rear axle/ring and pinion. If your rear is loading up that solid, it makes me wonder what the runout is between the front wheels and back wheels. Post your tire sizes and what type. Maybe they put the wrong combo on your unit. Double check your tire pressures. Even still, you said you lifted the front end to try to break lock, right? Shoot, that may as well be the same thing as pulling it out of 4wd (runout problem or not). In case your wondering, the drive wheel tends to be the one with the least amount of weight on it, try an experiment, lift the rear off the ground (2 wheel drive only) and unlatch your brake pedals. With the wheels moving in either direction, tap the brake corresponding to either wheel, does it stop while the other keeps moving? If it does then the diff is working properly. With the diff lock engaged do the same
( just hold one brake) does it drag the engine down with increased whine from the trans? If it does then that's normal also. Now release the diff lock and repeat the first check, one wheel should stop while the other keeps moving. If the diff sticks again, gently move the pedal from forward to reverse and that should definitely break diff lock. If it does'nt, then there is a problem. As far as I know I've never seen a tractor with "limited slip" so that should not be a factor. If the tractor weight is fairly evenly distributed you will see tire spin from both wheels in a slippage situation. But if the diff lock stays engaged you will notice the nead for increased power when turning and if you are on solid ground where traction is good, you can't miss the fact that the diff is still locked. Your machine has a pinion gear that drives the ring gear, the ring gear is attached to a carrier assy that houses 4 diff gears. Without diff lock engaged the wheel that recieves the highest load will cause the diff gears to walk around each other and drive the opposite wheel. This makes it possible to make a smooth turn, being that the inside wheel does'nt have to travel as far as the outside wheel. With the diff lock engaged it basically "locks" up the diff gears so they can't walk around each other and both wheels will drive at the same time by engaging either a set of pins or somewhat of a cam lock to lock the opposite side of the diff gears to the carrier that the ring gear is fixed to. Kind of difficult to explain with just words but maybe that will help.

 

[hayden]

The explaination if fishy. 100% of my diff lock useage is the way they say NOT to do it. From your posts I think you tried taking it out of 4WD and it didn't work.

I think you either encountered a very odd wind-up situation that got unwound by itself and will not occur again, or there really is something wrong that's causing the diff lock to stick in place.

In your situation, I'd use the diff lock lots and lots to try stimulating the problem. If there is one, knowing sooner is better. You'll either convince yourself there is a problem and be able to get it fixed, or convince yourself there is not a problem. Regardless it gets resolved and you get peace of mind.

 

[Westbilly]

That explains a lot. I will try to lift the rear this weekend.
I may have gotten into a "wound up" situation. I did use the diff lock a lot upon its return, and it seemed normal. Kubmec, I will in the future listen for the change in engine level to see if the diff lock is on and wheels are "stressed." I will use the diff lock enough to get the "peace of mind" to make sure it is working properly. But I think after that- as we said earlier- I will switch to 4WD as a first course of action when stuck. Kubmec, I will look at the tires and post it tonight. Thanks again guys.

2410 FEL LA352

 

[Westbilly]

Tires- Rear - R4 (industrial) 12-16.5 NHS
Front 23-8.5-12ss



2410 FEL LA352

 

[kubmech]

Westbilly, I just thought of something, now that you mention the industrial tires mounted on your machine. I remember having to change the final drive gears on the front axle on a machine because it was getting industrial tires (actual Kubota kit) But I'll be danged if I can remember what model it was. We only did one. I wont be able to check on it for a couple of weeks as I'm not going to be near work or a computer. Maybe someone else has some info on this. Catch you later.

 

[Pks]

Those are the same tire sizes that I have on my B2400.

If I remember correctly, I think there is a spring inside the differential-lock dog assembly that helps un-lock the unit when the pedal is released. If the problem occurs again, then I wonder if that spring is at fault.

Peter

 

[Westbilly]

Thanks for the post, at least I know the tires are correct.
Is that the spring on the outisde of the case? I know that spring is there. All the linkage is correct. So far it has been operating normally.

 

[Bob_Trevithick]

<font color=blue>...(you wouldn't believe some of the stuff folks try with their tractors - could be a new thread - dumb tractor tricks - one of which was some guy's idea of "super 4WD", a locked rear differential and 4WD, until the rear differential crumped).</font color=blue>

Whoa! I just found this while browsing, and I never heard before that one should never use both 4WD and diff lock together. Fortunately, I don't believe I ever have, but I would have if the situation had arisen. What's the story with this?

Thanks,
Bob (JD 4300 MFWD)

 

[Pks]

On the B2400, it is safe to use the Diff. Loc. while in 4x4 mode. This works OK as long as you drive mostly straight. The system unlocks itself automatically when the traction is evenly distributed between the two rear tires.

I use 4x4 almost exclusively in my sandy backyard. And when the tires begin to slip (I have R4s) I tap the Diff. Loc. pedal.

As I recall, the spring that I mentioned before is inside the Diff. Loc. assembly.

Peter

 

[Bird]

Bob, you'll almost certainly find occasions to use both 4WD and the differential lock together; no problem as long as your front wheels are turned straight ahead. I think he was referring to someone locking everything up and keeping them locked permanently.

 

[Bob_Trevithick]

<font color=blue>...Bob, you'll almost certainly find occasions to use both 4WD and the differential lock together; no problem as long as your front wheels are turned straight ahead.</font color=blue>

Bird, I'm not sure I understand the significance of the front wheels having to be straight ahead. Without a locking front differential, only one front wheel is ever driving, correct? And if you turn with the rear diff locked, one rear wheel may turn a bit faster than the other, which would just result in wheel slippage, right?

What am I missing here?

Thanks,
Bob

 

[Bird]

Maybe I was a little misleading, Bob. Makes no difference whether you're in 4WD or 2WD if you use the differential lock; use it when you need it. But regardless of whether you're in 4WD or 2WD, if you use the differential lock without going straight ahead or back, you'll be putting quit a strain on it because one back wheel will have to slide. And you'd most likely get away with it with no damage for awhile, but eventually you're gonna break something. And if you also leave it in 4WD all the time, as I think Cisco was talking about, you're putting quite a strain on that driveline anytime you operate it on a firm surface where the wheels don't slip a little bit. Now how long you can get away with it is anyone's guess. The manuals recommend against it, and for a reason. However, in '95 I looked at a nearly 2 year old B7100 with 800 hours on it that a dealer had for a rental unit and was ready to sell it. I noticed it was in 4WD and asked about that and he said they just left the rental units in 4WD all the time. Maybe he was telling the truth, and maybe he was just saying that in hopes of selling me the tractor.

 

[Bob_Trevithick]

Thanks for the clarification, Bird. I guess if I'm trying to move around in deep mud or snow, it's a moot point as none of the wheels have much traction anyway?

I try to keep it in 2WD whenever I can, and only resort to the heavier weapons when I really need to, so I hope I'm okay.

I understand the point now.. thanks.. if the wheels have enough traction to place stress on the drive train, then something has got to give sooner or later.

With my 600+ lbs. out on the 3pt, I haven't needed either diff lock or 4WD yet.. but then I haven't done much yet either. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

We'll see, if/when we ever get more than a token of snow out here. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[Egon]

Bob:
My little 7100 stays in four wheel drive 90% of the time. Only take it out if mowing or travelling on a road.

Egon

 

[rbargeron]

Westbilly - I'll throw in another theory about what is (was) wrong with your diff lock. With the machine so new, I'm betting it is just a snugger-than-normal fit of parts inside the differential. Or even a tiny metal particle somewhere, preventing the free motion of the lock.

To "exercise" it so it frees up try this: With the tractor shut off, parked on the level, and in neutral, lift one rear wheel with a floorjack until the wheel turns freely. Engage the diff-lock - the wheel should no longer turn. Release the diff-lock and work the wheel forward and back until it pops free and turns. Repeat this several times - see if it improves.

If, under these conditions, the diff-lock still sticks, have the dealer come over and see it for himself - Then you could insist that he get past the denial phase and fix it.

Hope this is useful.