2420 injection pump ?

[Bob Rooks]

Also if it is a stuck plunger from small debris,etc cant just that be taken apart ,cleaned and reassembled?

Yes, but it's not that simple. Once taken apart it must be recalibrated and that can only be done accurately by qualified technicians on a test bench, and they cost upward of $20 large. The reason accurate calibration is so important is to assure the precise amount of fuel is delivered to each injector which assures even firing (detonation) pressures which assures (all other things being equal) even loading of the crankshaft, crankshaft bearings, rods, etc. In your case it may be cheaper to just purchase a new pump/governor assembly.
I would also test your fuel for bug contamination. I operate a 12 mW diesel-electric propulsion plant, and I have seen diesel bugs bring 16,000 HP diesel engines to their knees.

 

[Rich Waugh]

Everybody I know who tried to take apart one of these Chinese injection pumps ended up having to buy a new one. I'm not saying it can't be done if you're careful and only go as far as what doesn't need a $30K test bench to calibrate, but I just haven't heard of anyone doing it and not ending up needing a new pump. Ya pays yer money and ya takes yer chances, I guess.

 

[Affordable]

No because it would have to be recalibrated, we have a New Injector Pump for the TY290X engine, however the linkage may not be the same as they did have 2- different types of pumps.Now the only one available is the one we stock, not sure if its the same as yours or not, but that's the only one you can get

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

 

[taylor tt]

Hello I have a question about my 2003 2420 farm pro tractor. When I start the engine it goes to a full throttle and the only way to shut it down is there is a metal handle located under the steering wheel that I pulled out and turned and it shut it down. Would this be a injector pump problem? None of the speed levers are stuck as far as I can tell. Any ideas? Thanks

 

[Rich Waugh]

Sounds like the rack is stuck in your injector pump's governor assembly. You can carefully clean this portion of the assembly, but don't mess with the injector pump part or you'll be buying a new pump. Your tractor should have a kill handle somewhere under the dash - what you're using sounds more like the compression release. The kill handle shuts off the fuel flow to the injector pump and on my tractor it is a black plastic T-shaped knob on a cable to the left of the steering column, below the dash. If your injector pump is on the right side of your engine the kill handle will be on the same side, probably. If you can't ind it any other ay, start at the injector pump and trace back the cables/linkages from the governor to the throttle(s) - it will be the "extra" one.

 

[Bob Rooks]

I agree with Rich. Apparently you actuated the compression release. That isn't a recommended method to shut down the engine.
In the illustration shown, the "control rod" is commonly referred to as the rack because of the rack and pinion type of gearing. In your case the rack sounds like it is stuck somewhere in or near the full fuel position.

 

[bobfor]

Hey guys just finding the time to remove the pump,I got everything off and after removing the 3 bolts from inside the housing cover,whats next? Is it pressed in,I don't see how you could get anything in there to press it out? Any help would be highly appreciated,thanks Bob

 

[bobfor]

Alright got it off, I had to take the primer pump off the unit just to get to that outside nut. Also not sure if this is normal but the gear with the 3 bolt holes came out with it,and that doesn't want to come off,is that a pressed on gear? Also once the pump was off (and the primer pump was still off) and I had a look at the cam,I manually turned it and yes the outside plunger (lifter) is sticking,so I definitely think I found my problem. Ive tried to lube it,clean it,and manually turn it but it still sticks (unless I take the top output valves/springs out) and then it doesn't stick,any ideals? I do have a new pump, but if I can get this one working it would be nice and I can throw the new one on the shelf,but if not I still need to get the front gear off,again any suggestions would be highly appreciated,thanks

 

[greg_g]

The drive gear is slotted in the center to accept the tang on the end of the pump drive shaft. The gear slot is what drives the pump tang. What you're describing is a tang that has forcefully rotated in the slot, effectively jamming the two together. That would explain the bad pump timing as well. You'll have to force the gear off the shaft to inspect both slot and tang. It's likely that one or both are beyond repair.

//greg//

 

[bobfor]

Yes I do know it has the slot and woodruff key but from looking at it ,it hasn't appeared to move? As I mentioned I do have a new pump,so no problem there,but Iam off to the local auto parts store for a gear puller. Do the gears normally just slide on and off the shaft or are they somewhat pressed on,also I did have the old style pump so I hope that this one will work (I was told it would)? thanks Bob