25 hp jinma tractor starter drags

[Red55]

Guess you miss the part "I Don't think" Really wasn't thinking, like you was -thinking about turbo chargers and that the denser the air the better the combustion. Ed
P.S. geobar try it hot air or then warm engine (coolant or oil pan heater) and tell us which works better. Personally I won't work my engine until it's warm.

 

[schmalts]

hot air works wonders, but you still need a good cranking RPM to get it going. Block heaters work well because it keeps the oil warm and thin to help keep the cranking rpm's up

 

[magyarbacsi]

For what it's worth, the Mahindra's, like my 5525, has a heater in the air intake to assist in cold weather starting. I have not needed it yet.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Well as advertised we got 4 to 5 inches of snow last night and it was -1F when I went out side. I had to call my neighbor and see if that was right. He said his truck said it was +2F so I guess that was close enough, it was cold, that is all I know. I plugged in the block heater and then got out the shovel and started on the door ways and deck on my house and barn. I probably spent less than 10 minutes at this task. I then ran the snow blower for about 20 minutes, 10 was spent cussing while trying to start it. So all in all within 30 minutes of plugging it in I got on it, gave it 20 sec of glow plugs and she started first time with no decompression or other trick. I then pulled it out of the barn on the drive and let it warm up at about 1200 rpm's for 10 minutes and she was off and plowing. It did take that long for the hydros to get working good with that cold of temps.

We have more snow on the way tonight, about 3-4 inches, but it will only get down to around 10 to 15 so it will be just like summer out there.

Chris

 

[Diamondpilot]

Well we got a good solid 4" last night and not very cold, maybe 20. I was not patient so I went out and just started it up with no block heater. Just gave her 20 seconds of glow plugs, used the decompression until it had spun up then off, and she fired first try. With my old starter and no cold weather kit it would have taken 5 minutes to get it started.

Chris

 

[Amez]

I replaced the positive cable to my starter because the electrical connectors on it seemed to be undersized for the 1 gauge wire. It also eliminated one connection on the battery side.The cable is swaged to the battery clamp.
It seemed to speed the starter up.I also replaced the ground wire for the same reasons.I also added a 14 gauge wire from the glow plugs to the ignition switch (parralleling the existing one) because the was a significant voltage drop when the plugs were energized.This also helped.A new starter and oil/coolant heaters seems like the best solution if you are willing to pay.

 

[Amez]

I found that when engine oil heaters are used for long periods of time it causes warm moist air to accumulate in the crankcase (above the oil). This warm air condenses on the cold engine casing and parts which causes rust to form. If the heater is left plugged in for long (all winter) this seems to cause significant rust accumulation and damage. The best way if possible to prevent this would be to heat the whole engine from the outside (inside a shelter). If used only when needed (and the machine is run up regularly) this may not be a problem.

 

[greg_g]

I also added a 14 gauge wire from the glow plugs to the ignition switch (parralleling the existing one) because the was a significant voltage drop when the plugs were energized.This also helped.

Hopefully you meant amperage drop, otherwise you might do well to get somebody who understands DC to be looking over your shoulder. And that amperage spike is normal, you're energizing three very high resistance devices after all. Well over 20 amps on a very cold block. If you see reduced amperage draw - say less than 15a - now that would point to a problem. At a minimum you should remove that second 14ga wire AND the original, replace them both with one good section of 10AWG primary wire. Alternatively, leave the OE wire in place, install a glow plug relay. Use 10 gauge between the battery cable and the relay, and between the relay and the buss bar.

...If used only when needed (and the machine is run up regularly) this may not be a problem

Rust. That's a new one. Common sense, actually. Why preheat an engine - if you're not actually intending to start it? I get the impression you may never have actually installed your own engine oil heater before. That last sentence of yours is pretty much lifted right outa the installation/operation instructions that came with mine.

 

[Soundguy]

, you're energizing three very high resistance devices after all. Well over 20 amps on a very cold block. .

As a heating element.. I'd characterize them as a very low resistance device. though very high wattage.. Maybe that's what you were refering to and just used the wrong term.

Int he ford diesel world, many people will run a battery ground cable right to one of the bolts holding the starter on.. every lil' bit helps when you are turning lots of cast iron..

Soundguy

 

[greg_g]

As a heating element.. I'd characterize them as a very low resistance device. though very high wattage.. Maybe that's what you were refering to and just used the wrong term.

Thanks for the correction, my satellite connection was dropping in and out during that particular post. Thought I had uploaded a proofed copy, but I now see that it obviously didn't make it.

It should have read "And that amperage spike is normal, you're energizing three very high current devices after all. They should be expected to pull well over 20 amps on a very cold block ".

Sorry 'bout that.

//greg//