2520 appropriate size tractor?

   / 2520 appropriate size tractor? #31  
I just recently traded in a 2210 with 62" mower for a 2520 with the 62D deck. My property consists of about 2 acres of very hilly lawn and I was always very pleased with the cut of the 2210. The lawn may not look like a golf course when I'm done, but I do appreciate a nice cut ;) I've only got one cut in so far with the 2520 but the deck appears to be very similar cut quality, if not a bit better (new blades are probably the difference!).

I absolutely love the 2520 - great tractor from what I've seen so far, however even though the spec sheet says it only weighs about 600lbs more than the 2210, it feels like it weighs a lot more... (I think that's about the weight difference, it has been a while since I've compared). The added weight I anticipate to usually be a nice benefit, as long as it doesn't adversely affect the lawn. The other part I'm trying to get used to for lawn work is going to R4's from R3's... They are fantastic for climbing the hills but I sure need to be more careful then I used to have to be with the turf tires on the 2210, especially when turning. I'm hoping that when it finally stops raining and the ground dries up, that will be much less of a problem.

All in all, I'm very happy I made the upgrade to the larger tractor and feel that in the end it does just as good of a job mowing as the smaller machine, but for all of my other tasks (snowblowing, driveway maintenance, FEL work, bushhog mowing, and tilling), it was well worth the step up.

Oh, and although I haven't had a tapemeasure out, I have 2 8' doors in the front of the garage and have no problem driving in with the ROPS up. Just make sure that if you have an automatic door opener, it is pulling the bottom of the door up equal to or slightly above the door opening when in the up position. I've seen some doors that are adjusted a bit lower and where the clearance is very close to the size of the opening anyway, the door not coming up ALL of the way could put you in danger of striking it! Unfortunately, my back garage bay is only a 7' door and that's where the tractor will live for the summer season so I definitely have to fold the ROPS to get through the door. When the cab goes on for the winter season I'll have to park my truck in the smaller bay out back when folding the ROPS is no longer an option - it will then get the larger front bay!

Good luck with your upcoming purchase - hopefully some of my ramblings can be of benefit to you during your decisionmaking process! :confused2:
 
   / 2520 appropriate size tractor?
  • Thread Starter
#33  
For everyones viewing pleasure.
View attachment 212747

Thanks Gizmo... very helpful. Big difference in the hydraulic pump output of 2520 v. the 2320/2305. 10.5 GPM v. 5.6/5.2 respectively. That'll liven things up a bit! I'm guessing they will all pretty much accomplish the same thing, but the 2520 faster.
 
   / 2520 appropriate size tractor? #34  
I think the hydraulics on the 2520 are too fast and I also think the hydraulics on the 2320 are a tad slow. Go figure!
 
   / 2520 appropriate size tractor? #35  
Anyone know how LONG that 2520 is with the front snowblower on?
Also, can you get by with rear wheel weights or do you need the ballast box?
I have some storage space issues!
 
   / 2520 appropriate size tractor? #36  
dannyk said:
Anyone know how LONG that 2520 is with the front snowblower on?
Also, can you get by with rear wheel weights or do you need the ballast box?
I have some storage space issues!

You need weight behind the rear axle to properly ballast the FEL. That is the only effective way to transfer the fulcrum point to the rear axle and not the front. Think of a see-saw on the playground. A full (concrete) ballast box is better than wheel weights.
 
   / 2520 appropriate size tractor? #37  
Anyone know how LONG that 2520 is with the front snowblower on?
Also, can you get by with rear wheel weights or do you need the ballast box?
I have some storage space issues!
My snowblower is not easily accessible right now so I don't have an exact number, but measuring each piece individually it looks like it is going to be about 146" long with the 3pth arms out straight and the blower down on the ground. If space is too tight, it looks like you might be able to save almost 10" if you took the 3pth arms off. I'm anxious to hear what others have to say about rear ballast - I have not used the blower yet (although if it keeps raining like this and the temp drops a few more degrees that may change - is it really mid-May?!), but I wasn't planning to use any ballast at all. If feels very solid with the blower on the front with the small amount of driving around the yard I have done with it on...
 
   / 2520 appropriate size tractor? #38  
Kenny,

Sorry for the confusion. I know I need weight on the 3-pt for the FEL, but what about in winter for just the snowblower?

Hey, thanks, DMax, for the heads up on the total length. Man, isn't that one long sucker to maneuver in tight quarters with the blower in deep snow?

Danny
 
   / 2520 appropriate size tractor? #39  
1) I cannot believe you haven't bought a compact tractor before this.
2) Just how cool is it to have a drive through garage? I am thinking you have to be the envy of the area.

Not to mention that the garage looks huge too. I am somewhat jealous myself.

What size is that garage?
 
   / 2520 appropriate size tractor? #40  
Kenny,

Sorry for the confusion. I know I need weight on the 3-pt for the FEL, but what about in winter for just the snowblower?

Hey, thanks, DMax, for the heads up on the total length. Man, isn't that one long sucker to maneuver in tight quarters with the blower in deep snow?

Danny

With the blower, you still need weight IMO-that blower is pretty heavy. Probably not as much weight is needed as with the FEL though. It is long-but with the hydro trans, hydro steering, and very small turning radius they are very agile.
 

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