2520 Starts, runs for a second and dies

[KDunn]

I have a 2520 that cranks over fine, starts but then immediately shuts off. This happened a couple times last Summer, but started working again.

Today it did it again, but will not restart.

I have changed the fuel filter, checked connections to the fuel solenoid, removed the fuel tank cap, and bypassed the seat switch but the problem continues.

I have read that this may be due to a bad diode inthe harness, but I am not sure where this diode is located to check it.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

Kevin

 

[farmeratheart]

Hi Kevin. Let me try to help ... The page from the 2520 Tech Manual is attached. Location is described as is a diagnostic test. Good luck. Frank

 

[KDunn]

Thanks for the input everyone, I did check the diode and it tested good. After putting everything back together, it magically healed itself again. I've got a bad connection or intermittent somewhere it seems.

It's highly unlikely that a diode is the problem. Once a diode goes bad, it usually doesn't heal itself. The symptoms sound more like the fuel solenoid. They usually have two coils in them. One is the pull-in coil that works for a second or two. The other is the hold-in coil that functions during the remainder of the engine running time. It sounds like your hold-in coil is bad or not being activated by the control circuitry.

There are 3 wires; a common ground and a wire for each coil. When the problem occurs, take a meter or test light and probe each coil wire. The one that operates for a second should show up in your test and will coincide with the engine dying. The other wire may or not get a voltage on it. If no voltage, the control circuitry is bad. If you have voltage, the solenoid is not functioning.

Of course, check that you have good connections to the solenoid and controller. Some of these solenoids have had a problem with oil or fuel getting into them causing problems.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Thanks for the input everyone, I did check the diode and it tested good. After putting everything back together, it magically healed itself again. I've got a bad connection or intermittent somewhere it seems.

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[Jack Murdock]

Hi Kevin. Let me try to help ... The page from the 2520 Tech Manual is attached. Location is described as is a diagnostic test. Good luck. FrankView attachment 592641

I need a 2520 tech manual but my dealer quoted me almost $400 ?

 

[farmeratheart]

I got mine as a birthday gift from my lovely bride a few years back. I wisely never did a price check

 

[Wagtail]

Just out of curiosity I'd stick an 'inspection camera' into the bottom of your fuel tank and have a look around for any nasties like debris or biological growth.

It can't hurt to do so and would eliminate a possible cause of fuel starvation.

 

[tmason]

I had this happen 3 years ago. Picked up the diode at the dealer and never installed it because the tractor started running properly again. Just had the problem happen again. Unwrapped the wiring where the diode is. Changed it. Everything fine now.

 

[shawnVT]

I had this happen 3 years ago. Picked up the diode at the dealer and never installed it because the tractor started running properly again. Just had the problem happen again. Unwrapped the wiring where the diode is. Changed it. Everything fine now.

do you buy chance remember the part number they keep getting me the flat bladed one

 

[Richard]

Given my lack of electronics, I have to guess this won't help you too much....but I experienced something very similar a number of years ago on my JCB. (backhoe/loader)


After being at near wits end..... I don't recall how I stumbled across it but as it turns out it was my water separator for the fuel line. Long story short, it was 99.99999% full of water. It would allow .00000001% of fuel to go through which allowed the machine to start. I might be able to putt (as in idle) 500' down the road before it died. Wait 10 minutes and I could putt 500' again BUT,. if I applied any throttle to it, it would immediately die.

I was totally perplexed looking at everything I could until I discovered the water.

Fixed it, new filters and was running like a bandit again.

 

[Egon]

There may be a fusible link in the solenoid circuit. They do have problems at times. Under ten dollar item.

Before replacing the fuel solenoid check and see if it works when out of the tractor. They can be expensive.

Just for information the solenoid activates the fuel pump. It has nothing to do with fuel supply.

 

[kthompson]

I have a 5525 that did about the same for me. It has spin on fuel filter. Turned out to have been either the new fuel filter or water separator not sure now which was leaking enough air in around the seal to create the issue. I was planting a field and really needed to keep running and took the filters off and wiped the filter seal and the surface on the filter mount. Solve mine's issue. As to trash in fuel tank, had also similar issue with a small Kubota and could not see the trash in the fuel tank for it turned out to be a black color wasp floating in the tank and with fuel at just the right level it happened.

 

[MPartin]

Picture A shows 4 diodes they all checked good only the one in the middle of the 3 goes to the fuel side of things. B not sure what it is but it has the main blue wire that goes to the plug on the solenoid. Not sure how to check this one nor what it should read. C has a orange wire going to the diode on the left not sure how to this one should be checked either. D is the plug to the solenoid I ran a ground and a hot from the batter. Grounded the top flat of the plug and touched the two side by side prongs, only one of those made it kick in. Replaced the fuel filter with no change to it running. I'm going to take C and D to John Deere in London Ky today to see what they tell me if you guys do t know. They may or may not help there not to friendly when it comes to questions.