I have a 2007 John Deere 2520 that I thought had a bad fuel shut off solenoid. It will start for about a second then shut off. I replaced the solenoid and still does the exact same thing. My next guess is the fuel shut off timer. How can I troubleshoot that? Just buying parts is getting expensive.
2520 will not start
- Thread starter Jeffro61
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hizoot
Gold Member
Could be a safety switch. I'd jumper them out to narrow down the possiblities.
pdp11
Silver Member
The safety switches, such as the neutral and PTO switches, will prevent the starter from cranking.
Bad fuel, water in fuel, bad fuel pump, clogged filter, those would be my first guess.
Bad fuel, water in fuel, bad fuel pump, clogged filter, those would be my first guess.
tomd999
Platinum Member
HI,
If it starts for a second and shuts off. Does it die just as you release the key from the start position to the run position? If so, I would suspect the ignition switch is not providing voltage in the run position. (Start position energizes both the run and start circuits) Check to see if you have voltage at the fuel shut off solenoid with the key in the run position.
Tom
If it starts for a second and shuts off. Does it die just as you release the key from the start position to the run position? If so, I would suspect the ignition switch is not providing voltage in the run position. (Start position energizes both the run and start circuits) Check to see if you have voltage at the fuel shut off solenoid with the key in the run position.
Tom
BethesdaEC
Gold Member
In the on position with the engine off, can you hear the fuel pump ticking? If you can than the on circuit is energized. Beyond the fuel pump diesel don't really need much else since they don't have an ignition system.
Without knowing a little more that is what I would guess also.
Thank you for all the suggestions. It started and ran great last night still not knowing what is causing it. It might be a day or maybe a month but it will happen again. It will start with the key in the start position but stall with the it in the run position. I can hear the fuel pump running. Something is causing the fuel shut off solenoid to not retract in the run position. I wish I had a service manual but I can't find one. I don't know what to check next time.
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
blackfalcon
New member
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- Jan 5, 2009
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Did you ever figure out the issue behind your problem. I'm trying to troubleshoot the exact same problems. Very frustrating. The tractor runs for 1.5 seconds and then shuts off. I don't have power to one side of the fule shuttoff solenoid. The other leg will power briefly for that 1.5 second and thats it.
No. I still don't know what was causing it. It's been running great lately. The tractor is a 2007 and that problem comes and goes. I took apart and reattached every wire connector I could find, then it started. No idea which one is the culprit. Good luck. Let me know if you solve the problem.
Jeff
Jeff
My early 2008 had a bad ignition switch.
Was acting up still in warrantee and had someone come out and change a fuse for $250.00. Of course it behaved for a couple months.
The second time I had someone come out when the ignition switch wouldn't even turn the dash lights on or anything else and it was a fuse again.
Couldn't convince anyone to try to figure out why it was blowing a fuse.
Just shoulder shrugs and a hand out for some cash.
In the meantime the dealer I bought the 2520 from lost their JD dealership and the next closer one went out of business. I went 40 miles away for a service manual and it took them 2 and 1/2 months to get.
I'm pretty much fed up with JD at this point.
Once I had the schematic in the manual I was able to prove the switch was bad and not anything else.
Really irks me that this switch started going bad under warrantee and I got no where trying to get it fixed. The switch isn't even expensive.
Was acting up still in warrantee and had someone come out and change a fuse for $250.00. Of course it behaved for a couple months.
The second time I had someone come out when the ignition switch wouldn't even turn the dash lights on or anything else and it was a fuse again.
Couldn't convince anyone to try to figure out why it was blowing a fuse.
Just shoulder shrugs and a hand out for some cash.
In the meantime the dealer I bought the 2520 from lost their JD dealership and the next closer one went out of business. I went 40 miles away for a service manual and it took them 2 and 1/2 months to get.
I'm pretty much fed up with JD at this point.
Once I had the schematic in the manual I was able to prove the switch was bad and not anything else.
Really irks me that this switch started going bad under warrantee and I got no where trying to get it fixed. The switch isn't even expensive.
First thing I did in 1988 when we bought our 650 and the first thing I did when we bought our 2320. Only need it once to justify buying it. Tractors are not like cars normally you have them for some time and you don't get on them and drive them to the dealer.
blackfalcon
New member
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- Jan 5, 2009
- Messages
- 11
I bought my tractor out of state, and it had less then 5 hours on it when the front axle seals blew out. I stopped in at my closest dealership and the owner said he wouldn't service it bc I hadn't purchased it from him. The other dealership in Charlotte has been much nicer to deal with, but they seem to know a lot more about fixing lawn mowers then tractors. I stopped in there today and they said they coudn't get to it until next week. I should probably go ahead and purchase the service manaul for it. I'll let you know if I can figure out what it is. I'm tending to think it may be the rectifier, but I'm not completely sure. I just say that because the hold in power is going straight from solenoid to rectifier, and the other larger guage wires on the rectifier have power to them, but the lead coming out does not.
grsthegreat
Super Star Member
That sucks. The warranty should be honored at any dealer. If you buy a Ford or chevy from dealer XXXX, any dealer will do warranty work on them.
Rara Avis
Veteran Member
Ask that dealer to give you the name of the regional John Deere Rep because YOU want to file a complaint...
Kyle_in_Tex
Super Star Member
Never heard of that before. What locale are you? Call John Deere and tell them the local dealer won't service your tractor. Have names ready to give them. What blew out the seals? Did it build up pressure?
blackfalcon
New member
- Joined
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- Messages
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This was 4 years ago or so. The dealer was Briley's in Gastonia, NC who wouldn't service me. I called John Deere corporate first thing when I got home. They apologized to me profusely, and said all there dealers are indepent and should service me, but they can't control what dealers actually do. So I took it to Lake Norman Tractor who worked me right in.
This is a terrible problem with Deere. I experienced the same dealer issue with 'You did not buy it here' concerning upgrading my rear draft arms from the original bad design. Deere has this problem, you are not alone. I owned a Kubota BX before and had none of this nonsense, and it does make me think about my ownership going forward, but I really like my 2520. I ended up going through the Web pages to complain enough to get it fixed at the local dealer. Speaky wheel, be persistant, unfortunately.
