254 assembly

   / 254 assembly #1  

slorne

Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2004
Messages
39
This message board is great!! I could not have assembled my 254 with out the help from all of you. I do have a couple of additional questions:

1) Fuel gauge is not working? any ideas?

2) Any break in advice for engine rpm's and gears (h/l - creeper, etc..)

3) Will try to assemble the frontend loader today. Here is how I think is goes on:
a) bolt rear cross member onto tractor
b) bolt busket onto front end loader
c) line up front end loader and try to lift up onto rear cross member support
d) bolt on the front loader frame supports

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks Again,

slorne
 
   / 254 assembly #2  
Is the gauge grounded properly? Do you have 12V going into the gauge? JohnS will probably chime in and be able to help with the loader, he has done a couple of them.
 
   / 254 assembly
  • Thread Starter
#3  
The sending unit from the tank has two wires
1) a black with #44 - which is ground
-this plugs into a female #44
2) w white wire with out a number
-this plugs into a female white

Is there a way to test the sending unit and also the gauge?

Thanks
 
   / 254 assembly #4  
I'd better let someone else help you, I would have thought that it would have a wire providing 12V to the sending unit and a wire sending a voltage back to the gauge(after going through the sending unit) with the ground being to the frame of the machine. I didn't assemble mine so I'm not exactly sure what it looks like. Sorry!
 
   / 254 assembly #5  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Fuel gauge is not working)</font>
first determine if the gauge is even any good. Ground one rear post to a known good ground. Apply a know good 12v to the other post. Needle should peg. If it dips, reverse wires on posts.

Other than that, Black #44 is sending unit ground. White wire is #35, and goes to what you've determined to be the negative post of the meter. Wire #25 with 12v on it goes to the other post of the meter. The float mechanism in the tank sending unit varies the resistance to ground, making the 12v supply move the gauge needle proportionate to the resistance to ground.

The attachment is a JM254 wiring diagram that may come in handy for you.

//greg//
 

Attachments

  • 575111-254 wiring.pdf
    21.6 KB · Views: 240
   / 254 assembly #6  
The gage is grounded by a sping contact between the "U" shaped mounting bracket (well maybe U with bad penmanship). DO not over tighten the mounting nuts/terminals or you will ruin the gage.

Just make sure the gage is grounded and it should work if hte rest of the wiring is correct.
 
   / 254 assembly #7  
I am not sure what the latest changes are for the ZL-20, but will tell you what I did for an earlier version.

Rear Mount:
Check to see if you received longer bolts for the side mount. If not, remove one from the side covers, and get eight bolts that are same thread but about 3/8" longer (thickness of new mount). I mounted each part (3 piece) loosely until I had all bolts started. The under piece has to get around the hyd lines. Don't forget the bolts underneigth that go into bell housing. Once you have them all started, begin tightening them all down. I would tighten each side, then the ones under the tractor, thaen repeat until all were tight.

Front Mounts:
Probably different than mine. They would have changed for the wider recessed battery frame. There should be an angle to them. They mount such that the angle would meet out in front of the tractor. ie mounts are not the same or swapable. Probably just four bolts on each mount to frame.

Frame:
Check all grease fittings, sometimes they didn't drill the holes all the way through. If you see any bad welds, easier to fix before you mount it. Mount the bucket with the four large bolts/nuts.

Placing Frame on tractor:
Need two people for this. And you should be on flat level ground. Many have used a chain hoist, and it is probably easier than the method I used.

I filled the bucket with cinder blocks, and strapped it in so it couldn't slide out. The newer ZL20's have two posts to hold the frame up, mine had one, which was a balancing act. The posts need to be in place, and I might have done that before adding the weight to the bucket (memory bad?).

I then parked along the side of the fel, shut off tractor and hooked up hyd lines. Restarted tractor, and here is where you need the second pair of hands. You need to feather the hyd controls to get the fel into position, such that you can drive under it. Jerky motion will get the fel moving too quick and possibly out of control. The second person is holding onto the frame and keeping it from tipping. Once you have it up to height, put some 2x4s under it, shut off engine, and disconnect fel hyd hose, and connect for just tractor. Use your creeper gear to postion tractor under fel. It will be a tight fit on the muffler/fel control side. Once I was close enough, I shutdown engine and reconnect fel hyd and restarted. You will probably have to make small changes in heght to get into the rear saddles. Watch to make sure the front part of the frame is on the correct side of the front mounts. When positioned correctly, pin the sadle mounts. There are large nuts that when you tighten them down, pulls the fel all the way into the saddle. Align the front frame to the front mounts such that you can get all four bolts per side.

Its a pain, but take your time and make sure you have the second safety person. A chain hoist is probably the better way to go and safer, if you have that option. I didn't and this is the method I came up with.
 
   / 254 assembly #8  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Any break in advice for engine rpm's and gears (h/l - creeper, etc..)</font>
Since nobody's addressed this, the attachment is the break-in table as published in the operator's manual.

//greg//
 

Attachments

  • 575478-break in.pdf
    11.5 KB · Views: 220
   / 254 assembly
  • Thread Starter
#9  
I can't thank you guy's enough for the advice and guidance while assembling this tractor. Your suggestions have been great and have really helped me put this thing together.

got the front end loader on today, work's great. The engine now has 1.5 hour's on it mostly idleding at different speeds.

Not a single leak after changing all fluids and tighting each nut down.

Thanks again... next weekend is the back hoe assembly.
 

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