2544 - use 30W or 10W-30??

[EuropaChris]

My '05 2544 has about 35 hours on it. Running on the first oil change after dumping the break-in oil still. Hasn't used any at all and the oil is just barely turning a slightly darker shade of brown. Amazing, really.

Anyway, I used 10W-30 as suggested in the manual.

For the next oil change, likely this fall at the end of the mowing season, I want to either run more 10W-30 or just run a good straight 30W heavy duty oil. I don't run it in the winter for blowing, so it's just strictly mowing above 50 deg. F.

In our vehicles, which are both diesel, I run Mobil Delvac-1 5W-40 synthetic. Previous gas vehicles had a steady diet of Mobil1 5W-30. I'm sold on synthetics. However, since I don't want to run oil more than one season, and won't put more than 50 hrs. a year on the tractor, it's a bit of a waste to run synthetic, I think.

A straight 30 has always been the 'standard' for lawnmowers and such. Air cooled engines run pretty hot compared to water cooled, and the viscosity index improvers in a multiweight oil will break down and sludge up if they get too hot. A straight weight oil avoids that issue (so does synthetics).

What's everyone's opinions?

Oh yeah, I run NAPA Gold (Wix) filters for the tranny and engine. Good stuff.

Chris

 

[aaabelha]

Absolutely not.

10w-30 for all mowing season temps. You can switch to 5w-30 or 5w-20 for winter if using it for snow, etc. You can't use straight 30 weight in this engine with the hydraulic valve lifters.


Ambient Temperature Viscosity (Grade SG/SH)
+32°F and Above — Engine Oil S.A.E.
10W30

Below +32°F — Engine Oil S.A.E.
5W20 or S.A.E. 5W30*
*Synthetic Engine Oil S.A.E. 5W20 or S.A.E. 5W30 is
acceptable, up to 40°F. Synthetic oils will provide
better starting in extreme cold (below -10°F).

 

[EuropaChris]

Interesting. I wonder how the straight 30W affects the hyd. lifters? If the temps get too cool, I can see it getting too thick, but at normal summer temps I can't see a problem.

I also thought it was weird how Cub only stipulates synthetic 5W-30 up to 40 deg. F. A synthetic will perform as well or better at the elevated temps. They don't mention anything about 10W-30 synthetic, tho....

Chris

 

[JSharp]

You might consider using the Delvac 1 you use in your other equipment. I was considering the same thing and sent a note to Kohler about it. The reply from the support person was that while Kohler recommended 10W-30, in his opinion the Delvac 1 would be a good choice. He also commented that synthetic oils had proven their superiority and recommended their use.

I think JTCub is using Rotella T 5W-40 synthetic in his tractor with good results.

If you don't want to run a synthetic 5W-40 you could always try one of the heavy duty diesel/gas oils like Rotella, Delvac 1300, Delo, etc. in 10W-30 or even 15W-40 if you're not using the tractor in cold conditions. The heavy duty dual rated oils typically have a more robust additive package that should work well in these engines compared to common passenger car oils. I have Rotella 10W-30 in my 2554 right now and I'll use it until 50 hours when I'll be changing to synthetic.

I think it's worth the $$ for the synthetics in this application. Air cooled engines typically run high oil and cylinder head temperatures and that's where synthetic oils have proven themselves superior. Given that the Kohler engines only require 2 quarts of oil for a change every 100 hours, it's really not that much of an expense. I personally wouldn't worry about leaving the oil in more than 1 season. I've left synthetic oils in seldom used vehicles as long as 23 months with no adverse effects.

You also made a good choice using the Wix filters instead of the OEM parts IMO.

 

[JSharp]

Interesting. I wonder how the straight 30W affects the hyd. lifters? If the temps get too cool, I can see it getting too thick, but at normal summer temps I can't see a problem.

I also thought it was weird how Cub only stipulates synthetic 5W-30 up to 40 deg. F. A synthetic will perform as well or better at the elevated temps. They don't mention anything about 10W-30 synthetic, tho....

Chris

Those recommendations look to be based on using conventional oil. The 5W-30's do tend to shear down more than the 10W-30's. I'm guessing they avoid recommending straight weight oils since most of the ones you see on the shelf are poor quality with minimal additive packages.

If you're using a synthetic there likely won't be any difference at all in warm temps between a 5W-30 and 10W-30.

 

[JTKub]

..I think JTCub is using Rotella T 5W-40 synthetic in his tractor with good results..

Ding-ding-ding!! That's me! Yessir, My kohler command 20 runs quiet and smooth on the Shell Rotella-T 5w-40. I had 3qts setting on the shelf, which is why I used it. No lifter noise, etc. Shell R-T's cold pumping specs are very good as well. At a ~1yr/50hr oil change interval, any 10w-30 really is the way to go. I dunno if I'll continue with the Shell R-T or not. My 2544 will fall apart from my rough, hilly property long before the engne wears out due to an oil related concern.

Joel

 

[JSharp]

Ding-ding-ding!! That's me! Yessir, My kohler command 20 runs quiet and smooth on the Shell Rotella-T 5w-40. I had 3qts setting on the shelf, which is why I used it. No lifter noise, etc. Shell R-T's cold pumping specs are very good as well. At a ~1yr/50hr oil change interval, any 10w-30 really is the way to go. I dunno if I'll continue with the Shell R-T or not. My 2544 will fall apart from my rough, hilly property long before the engne wears out due to an oil related concern.

Joel

Probably some of us who hang out on other boards worry too much about oils.

I have lots rough ground too and my 2554 will likely be dead from it long before the engine is worn out. But, I think I'll do something totally different with mine anyway and use Mobil 1 10W-40 synthetic motorcycle oil with 100 hour change intervals. I'm just too curious about it not to try it...

 

[Fordlords]

Use a synthetic 10W30 oil in these new OHV small engines, and change it seasonally. These engines don't hold much oil (1.5-2 qts) so the extra expense of synthetic isn't too prohibative, yet synthetic oil performs superbly in devices that are air cooled such as small mower engines or have limited cooling systems like transmissions or differentials/axles, as it's viscosity stays very stable. Do not use synthetic oil to extend change intervals, it is NOT made for that as some of the commercials try to advertise.


-Fordlords-

 

[bermuda_ken]

Here's a good "rule of thumb" to use on oil selection. IF the engine has a spin-on oil filter, use a multi-weight oil (your choice of brand/flavor). IF the engine does NOT have a filter, use a straight weight oil only. Simple to remember and follow.

 

[JTKub]

.... Do not use synthetic oil to extend change intervals, it is NOT made for that as some of the commercials try to advertise.


-Fordlords-

Fordlords, I have to disagree with you on that point. There is tons and tons of used oil analysis data available that supports extended oil change intervals with the use of synthetic motor oils. Like you say, the stuff holds it's viscosity range for a loooong time. Yes, byproducts of combustion do build up over time, but that takes a long time to be an issue in a modern engine using a modern oil. Extended OCI's and $30 used oil analysis are not for me. Nor do I spring for synthetics (much) anymore since my applications see no benefit, but facts to back it up are out there.

G/luck
Joel