2550 Melting hood!

[bouvier]

After about 3.5 hours of mowing the hood of my 2550 popped open. The plastic had become so hot that it deformed and the hood latch assembly fell off. I have about 70 hours ( it's a little over a year old) and the dealer said that he would replace the complete hood. There are no oil leaks that I can find and I check the oil before every mow. Of late it takes about 4 oz every 4 hrs or so. This machine has run hot since I got it but never this hot! Any ideas?

Bouvier

 

[TractorLarry]

That seems to be excessive oil burn to me. Do you use Synthetic?

-Larry

 

[xmitterengineer]

Is the engine cooling properly?
Are any of the ventilation passages blocked?
Blocked air passages could explain both problems.
Good luck Sir.

Rickey.

 

[bouvier]

That seems to be excessive oil burn to me. Do you use Synthetic?

-Larry

I've used full Synthetic from the start and it looks like all the vents are clear.

Al

 

[TractorLarry]

That could possibly be the source of the Oil Burn.

Some engines do not break in properly when they are started out on Synthetic.

I believe Kohler recommends 50 hours on Dino-Oil before switching to Synthetic for this very reason.

Your rings may have never seated.

-Larry

I've used full Synthetic from the start and it looks like all the vents are clear.

Al

 

[DieselPower]

Rings not seating would have nothing to do with the hood melting. It does not take long for a engine to break in. The majority of break in happens within the first couple of hours.

As has already been mentioned check for blocked cooling fins/passages. You don't by chance park it somewhere that mice can get to it do you? My uncle nuked a engine a couple of years ago. When I tore the engine down I found a huge mouse nest under the engine cover. No air flow, no cooling, melted engine.

 

[Fordlords]

The 2500 series hood melting has been addressed here before, there has been a problem with the hinges working loose and placing the hood in to the wrong position. Dealers will replace the damaged hoods. The engine heat had nothing to do with the hood.

I do agree that the use of synthetic oil to start out with could be a cause of the oil consumption. These engines take around 10-15 hours to break in with conventional oil. Switch the synthetic out with regular oil for a while and see if the consumption goes down. These engines should really have no noticeable oil consumption between regular changes.

-Fordlords-

 

[TractorLarry]

Of course not. I was keying in on the unusual oil burn. 4oz in a few hours is WAY too much IMHO.

Some engines do not break in well under Synthetic, and that's why Kohler recommends (at least on my command-18), that it run Dino Oil for the first 50 hours.

-Larry

Rings not seating would have nothing to do with the hood melting. It does not take long for a engine to break in. The majority of break in happens within the first couple of hours.

As has already been mentioned check for blocked cooling fins/passages. You don't by chance park it somewhere that mice can get to it do you? My uncle nuked a engine a couple of years ago. When I tore the engine down I found a huge mouse nest under the engine cover. No air flow, no cooling, melted engine.

 

[JSharp]

Maybe off topic but - Has anyone noticed how high the underhood temps are on the later 2500 series? I checked some temps with my IR thermometer after an hour of mowing in 90 degree heat and it was very disturbing. It can't be good for engine life.

I also wonder why Cub decided to plug the center louvers in the hood with a plastic filler panel. I may pull mine and see if it helps cool things down under the hood. If not, maybe some forced air would help. I can't see any downside to making things cooler under there...

 

[Fordlords]

I know when owners say the heat off the exhaust will turn the grass brown if left idling, those things have got to be getting toasty under the hood.

Out of curiosity, what were the temperature readings? I know they check that sort of thing out carefully during design, so the engine temp range should be well within Kohler specs. Just not too good for the grass.

I know they make those sloped, tapered hoods to give better visibility when mowing, but the exhaust system really should not be on the lower end of the engine/frame. I have never thought too much of plastic hoods, but it's just what you are going to get today.

-Fordlords-