2555 HST glow plug light stays lit

[HollowOakFarm]

I did a search through some of the glow plug threads and didn't see this particular issue, so forgive me if this has been addressed and I just didn't see it.

New 2555 HST delivered in April. No problems until yesterday. Last used a week ago. Went to start it on Sunday and the glow plug light stays on...I'm hoping it's something simple that maybe we as new owners are overlooking. Appreciate any clues.

Still under 50 hours on the clock.

 

[TnAndy]

Clip a test light on one of the plugs at the point the wire connects to it and ground the other end. If it lights up, you have power to the plugs....which after 30 seconds or so of ignition switch "on", you should not have.

Since it is still under warranty (I guess), the dealer will need to replace a bad timer in the glow plug circuit. There is a relay that sends power to the plugs (and your dash light) and a timer that controls the relay (sometimes the built in the same black box) that sends power to the plugs for a fixed amount of time after the ignition key is turned on.

Keep a record of the dealer repair IF they don't replace the glow plugs as well. If you start to notice hard, or no, starting in cold weather, most likely the extended time the plugs had power burned one or more of them out, and again, that should be covered as a result of the timer going out.

 

[TractorNH]

The 2555 doesn't actually have traditional "glow plugs" in each cylinder, it has a grid heater (which I believe is actually a glow plug) in the intake manifold to preheat the intake air (number 13 in the 1st picture). Find the connector for the one on the intake manifold and check to see if it has voltage after 45 seconds. It should only stay on for 30 seconds but will do this every time you start it. This engine also has "dummy glow plugs" on the cylinder head but they are only there to fill the hole in the head itself (number 12 in the 2nd picture).

 

[HollowOakFarm]

Thanks, guys.

We're hearing some odd clicking noises with the key turned, and now there's no glow light at all. Dealer wants to send someone out to take a look so we'll wait on that.

I'll update when we have a fix.

 

[Uncle Hulka]

I never like to hear of 2555 problems. It always seems to give me one more thing to watch out for! Yeesh!! Out of curiosity, who is your Dealer? Woodbury Tractor is probably closest to Burlington. With so few dealers in CT, it's good to know which are good and which are......not so much. Keep us posted as to what the dealer finds.

 

[JerryK]

I never like to hear of 2555 problems. It always seems to give me one more thing to watch out for! Yeesh!! Out of curiosity, who is your Dealer? Woodbury Tractor is probably closest to Burlington. With so few dealers in CT, it's good to know which are good and which are......not so much. Keep us posted as to what the dealer finds.

One good thing about the 2555 [ and my 5035 ] is that they are direct injection diesels, have grid heaters, and start easy most of the time even without using the grid heaters. Unlike my little Mitsubishi 1526 which is indirect injected, has glow plugs, and you have to use those glow plugs to get it to fire almost every day for the first startup. So, count thy blessings....

 

[HollowOakFarm]

The dealer suggested we bring the battery in to swap it out. Seemed to me that was a rather hasty "remedy" to an issue that wasn't yet uncovered (as if bad batteries was a common thing with them)...but ok. When I pried the plastic cover off the positive terminal I found the entire clamp corroded, to the extent it fell apart in my hands. Two months old. Not good.

The worst of it is the 2 tie downs on the bottom back side of the battery. No idea how to access them with normal tools. Can't be more than 3/8 of an inch clearance between the battery and the radiator.

I should've gone golfing today :irked:

 

[Reb954]

A couple months ago I went to start my 2565, it sounded slightly sluggish. I had read on here where folks had had problems with the battery clamps corroding so I checked them. Sure enough, they weren't really bad but bad enough. I installed some higher quality clamps from the parts store, cleaned everything up good and no problems since.

 

[RickB]

Find out if it needs an ECU reprogram. Some are on a campaign list.

 

[Dave M7040]

The dealer suggested we bring the battery in to swap it out. Seemed to me that was a rather hasty "remedy" to an issue that wasn't yet uncovered (as if bad batteries was a common thing with them)...but ok. When I pried the plastic cover off the positive terminal I found the entire clamp corroded, to the extent it fell apart in my hands. Two months old. Not good.

The worst of it is the 2 tie downs on the bottom back side of the battery. No idea how to access them with normal tools. Can't be more than 3/8 of an inch clearance between the battery and the radiator.

I should've gone golfing today :irked:

Some words of caution for long term reliability.

Replace entire battery cable. Do NOT put replacement ends on existing cable. Over time they just become a high resistance connection in the starting circuit.

Re battery hold downs. Most, I cannot say yours, use long J hooks. You loosen the nuts close to the bar holding the battery and the J hook will disconnect from its hole.

Sometimes the bar, actually a small angle iron, goes along the foremost edge of the battery and sometimes it goes along the back edge closest to the rad. The nuts do not have to be backed off very far before the angle iron will come off freeing the battery.

Dave M7040