2638 Mounting Locations

[TylerJ]

Hey all, first time tractor owner here with a 2638 HST. Didn't grow up around tractors or machinery, but recently moved to 20 acres and will have some cattle in a few years.
I need help locating places on the tractor to secure it whenever taking it for service or to help a friend.

I've read many good threads here about how to secure it (one at each corner pulling out and 10% tongue weight. My truck is only 1/2 ton Ram 1500 Sport V8 and it squatted down when I borrowed my father-in-law's eMax 25. I think it was because the trailer tongue was too high (he has a 3500). Seeing as how I'm near my max pulling capacity (7500lbs of rated 10,000) I want to use chain and go overkill to be safer than sorry. I'll be driving on the interstate.

I say all that to get your input on where to chain down the tractor and if 5/16" is sufficient or 3/8" is too much? I was thinking about having my father-in-law weld on pad eyes so I can remove the D-rings when using the tractor so it doesn't rattle. Any input is appreciated.

 

[duffer]

Congrats on the new 2638. I think you'll love it. Had mine for 3 years, 1150 hours, and love it.

First off, if you rear end a stopped semi on the interstate, no chain is going to help you, no matter what the size. But under normal towing situations 5/16" would be sufficient. I use 3/8", but I like to over engineer everything. I've only towed mine twice in 3 years and that was to help out friends in need.

As far as placement...I connect the front chains to 2 hooks I have welded onto the top of my bucket. You should get hooks welded onto your bucket. You won't be sorry. BUT...be sure to take the bucket completely off the tractor before welding on it. You could send welding current thru the tractor and trash the computer...not fun.

On the back, I have Pat's Quick attach, and my chain fits perfectly into the snap shut 3 pt brackets. Then just torque the chain from there. Otherwise, put a ball on your draw bar, and attach the chain to that. I'm hesitant to wrap anything around the axles, as there are too many things that could go wrong.

One other consideration as far as dealer visits. Many dealers have "field techs" that come out to you to fix stuff. And there are a lot of independent guys that do it as well. Ask some of your neighbors for referrals, and of course, ask your dealer as well. I used a Mahindra dealer field tech once to update the programming on mine, and he came to me, and did it while the tractor was in the shed.

Take good care of your tractor, and it will take care of you.
Keep us posted on your progress and learning curve with the tractor. You'll find a lot of great info on this board. Lots of knowledgeable guys. Many more so than me.

 

[mwayne]

I welded a stiffener onto the brush guard of my 2538. While I was at it put on the D ring which could be used for a tie down point.

 

[duffer]

I welded a stiffener onto the brush guard of my 2538. While I was at it put on the D ring which could be used for a tie down point.

Great idea !!

Also glad to see that I'm not the only guy with a dirty tractor. We put them to work! :thumbsup:

 

[George2615]

Welcome to TBN :welcome:

I use 4 5/16" chains, 2 front, 2 back. I bolted D-rings to the frame in front and use a twisted clevis on the back. Plus a chain over the bucket and any attachment on the rear. Attachments have to be secured too. I have a cab tractor so I don't hear any rattling from the D-rings. I don't even think you would hear rattling on an open station over the engine noise.

 

[bridge4]

Wondering about this myself for the future, nice starting thread!!

For the guys with the pictures, thanks!

 

[CoyPatton]

Under tractor projects on this forum, there is a section on transporting. There is some great info there.
One big caution is where/how you run your chains. For example, always make sure that you are not placing pressure on parts that might bend, such as steering linkages.
Another point is regardless of what size chain use, always remember that your working load limit is determine by the lowest rated component in your tie down.

 

[mwayne]

Great idea !!

Also glad to see that I'm not the only guy with a dirty tractor. We put them to work!

Thanks! Yup, no vanity washing for me. Only for performance, maintenance and repair.

 

[TylerJ]

Welcome to TBN :welcome:

I use 4 5/16" chains, 2 front, 2 back. I bolted D-rings to the frame in front and use a twisted clevis on the back. Plus a chain over the bucket and any attachment on the rear. Attachments have to be secured too. I have a cab tractor so I don't hear any rattling from the D-rings. I don't even think you would hear rattling on an open station over the engine noise.

So you put both chains to the single rear clevis? To me that seems like a single point of failure. I guess if the clevis is rated for 2x the chain/binder rating it's okay.

 

[George2615]

So you put both chains to the single rear clevis? To me that seems like a single point of failure. I guess if the clevis is rated for 2x the chain/binder rating it's okay.

Yes, the rear clevis is rated for 11,000 lb. More than twice the chain rating and twice the tractor weight.