2810 HST Dead Hydraulics?

[MDM]

I'm posting this for my father in law. The hydraulics on his 2810 HST have quit working. His loader and 3pt hitch will not raise at all. He has 300 hrs on it. He has contacted his dealer and is going to take it in sometime this week as it is still under warranty. I told him I would ask about it on here and maybe save him a trip to the dealer. Anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks.

 

[MadReferee]

Based on the limited information you have given, it looks like the hydraulic pump has failed. Lucky for you it's still under warranty.

 

[MDM]

The mechanic at the dealership told him that it sounded like a specific "ball valve" with a spring was stuck open or closed I don't know which. The mechanic told my FIL where it was at, but he couldn't find it.

 

[shvl73]

The mechanic at the dealership told him that it sounded like a specific "ball valve" with a spring was stuck open or closed I don't know which. The mechanic told my FIL where it was at, but he couldn't find it.

I have the same tractor, when you find the problem, please post it. I'd be interested to know, should I experience it as well.

 

[MadReferee]

If the loader and the 3pt are no longer working then there is probably one of two problems. Either the pump has failed or the system is going into relief with the relief valve staying open. I vote for the pump.

 

[DavesTractor]

I'm posting this for my father in law. The hydraulics on his 2810 HST have quit working. His loader and 3pt hitch will not raise at all. He has 300 hrs on it. He has contacted his dealer and is going to take it in sometime this week as it is still under warranty. I told him I would ask about it on here and maybe save him a trip to the dealer. Anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks.

It probably has a Nimco loader valve. Make sure the tractor is not running and the loader is resting on the ground. There is a 7/8" bolt that is on the loader valve and the head of the "bolt" faces the steering wheel area, meaning that it is on the inside of the valve. Loosen it about 2 turns, it will click, then tighten. That is the pressure relief and it is stuck. They have a replacement spring/ball to cure this. Let us know.

 

[MDM]

It probably has a Nimco loader valve. Make sure the tractor is not running and the loader is resting on the ground. There is a 7/8" bolt that is on the loader valve and the head of the "bolt" faces the steering wheel area, meaning that it is on the inside of the valve. Loosen it about 2 turns, it will click, then tighten. That is the pressure relief and it is stuck. They have a replacement spring/ball to cure this. Let us know.

Right on DavesTractor! That was the problem. He did what you said, now everything is working. My FIL's tractor is almost 2 years old. I doubt the new valve would be covered by warranty since most loaders only carry a warranty for 1 year. Could you PM me a price for the updated valve? Thanks.

 

[DavesTractor]

You don't need a new loader valve, just a spring and ball kit which your dealer should have or should be able to get. They are cheap, or maybe even free...depending on your dealer. Or just repeat the above procedure every couple of years and all is good.

Glad we could help.

 

[shvl73]

Dave,
My '03 2810HST has the Sauer-Danfoss loader valve. I've got more bleed down than I think should be, in both lift and tilt cylinders. Also the rollback isn't real strong. Would an updated valve be a potential cure or should I consider rebuilding the existing valve?
Torin.

 

[DavesTractor]

Dave,
My '03 2810HST has the Sauer-Danfoss loader valve. I've got more bleed down than I think should be, in both lift and tilt cylinders. Also the rollback isn't real strong. Would an updated valve be a potential cure or should I consider rebuilding the existing valve?
Torin.

Torin,
I'm not sure really. Your question is much tougher! Bleed down could be in the cylinders or in the valve...or a little on both. The ML108H wasn't known to be overly strong in rollback, so you may or may not have a problem there.

Perhaps a hydraulic expert, and there are several on this site, might chime in and give you the best testing procedure to pin point the leakage.