2810

[6shotz]

Has anyone else out there had problems with their clutch on a 2810? (2002 vintage)

 

[5030]

Probably shot.

 

[mike0000]

What’s your clutch doing or not doing? Have you adjusted free play?

Mike

 

[ptsg]

If this was a common issue, I would imagine we would read about it more often but this is the first time I've seen that happening. I know a couple 2810 and the bigger brother 3510 here in my country with over 3000 hours still rocking the same clutch and these are tractors used in real world farming pulling plows, discs, cultivators, loaded trailers, etc.

I see the LUK marking on the pressure plate, so that tells me it's a good quality clutch too.

Can you provide more details on how are you operating this tractor? Using the foot throttle or just raise the RPMs with the hand throttle? Are you doing loader work when this happens?

 

[oldnslo]

Fretting can be a problem and I am not sure if there a single clear cause. BMW motorcycles had this problem on some models with dry clutches.

Previous company I worked for recommended Castrol optimoly white paste for splines. This was several years ago so not sure if even still available. You have to be carefuly when applying it since that is a dry clutch and you don’t want grease flinging out on the clutch surface.

 

[oldnslo]

6
Are you in an area where there is salt air from the ocean? That was one thought on what caused short term fretting on equipment. Again I don’t know if that theory was ever proven but study did point towards much shorter life of equipment used close to salt air environment vs used in humid environment without salt.

Hope that grease solves your problem.

As point of reference on BMW had to relube splines every 20 - 30,000 miles

 

[mike0000]

We are in the mountains of the inland Northwest (Idaho). Salt on the roads but this tractor has never been out on the roads.

Now here is something that is a bit peculiar...
This is a photo of the drive gear for the main hydraulic pump. About six years ago, this drive gear stripped out it's spline. The pump shaft was ok, but the drive gear stripped its spline.
The folks at Branson said this was indeed a problem on some of the units and attributed it to the fact that there is no lubrication in this part of the engine. After reading up on "fretting" I would say this gear was a victim of the same thing. It was not an easy repair, as the front cover of the engine needed to be removed (after numerous other layers ) to access and replace the gear. I will be pulling the pump off and checking it and adding "spline grease" to it while it's all down.
View attachment 759231

I went through the exact same failure on my 3510, I had enough damage to the pump shaft that I didn’t feel like I could just replace the gear.

 

[oldnslo]

Reading this makes me wonder if I should pull the pump on my 2400H and look at splines as preventative maintenance. A little elbow grease is cheaper than new parts.

 

[ptsg]

Reading this makes me wonder if I should pull the pump on my 2400H and look at splines as preventative maintenance. A little elbow grease is cheaper than new parts.

Same here. I even have to pull the suction pipe completely out to fix my mishap, so may very well take full advantage of that. May also do the same on the splines for the 4WD shaft.

 

[oldnslo]

Same here. I even have to pull the suction pipe completely out to fix my mishap, so may very well take full advantage of that. May also do the same on the splines for the 4WD shaft.

I never even thought about 4 WD shaft but that is another rather easy item to inspect.

 

[mike0000]

When mine failed, the pump would not come out. I tried everything I could think of, even driving wooden wedges between pump/housing. I damaged the housing finally getting it out, luckily the housing was cheap. The remaining splines were out of alignment, had I known maybe I could have rotated the pump. The very edge of the drive gear had enough teeth left to cause the hang up. As 6shotz mentioned, it is a pretty involved job replacing that gear. i really don’t know why it failed, maybe there’s something to it not getting lube, mine definitely showed rust inside the gear.

Mike

 

[claggstractors]

Been a while since I've been into one of those. Had a few that had to have the snychros replaced on the shuttle years ago. Don't remember anything out of the ordinary. Bransons part prices are getting out of hand for sure. Can't say I've ever had to replace the main input shaft into the transmission though.

 

[claggstractors]

Did you have to separate the transmission from the rear section of the case?

Not to replace the input shaft. Disassemble the obvious stuff at the front of the case. Pull the transmission cover off the top. Couple of snap rings to get loose. Remove from the front catching the bearing and gears as it comes out. 10-20 Series service manual.pdf . that link should go straight to the service manual for this one. Ignore the picture on the thumbnail. It's incorrect.

 

[claggstractors]

Awesome! thank you for sharing!

No problem. Thanks to Asteral for pulling them out of Branson though. Otherwise, you would have had to waited for me to scan the needed pages out of the paper manual lol.

 

[mike0000]

Been a while since I've been into one of those. Had a few that had to have the snychros replaced on the shuttle years ago. Don't remember anything out of the ordinary. Bransons part prices are getting out of hand for sure. Can't say I've ever had to replace the main input shaft into the transmission though.

“Branson part prices are getting out of hand for sure”
you said a mouthful right there, I couldn’t agree more, there’s a reason my signature no longer includes a Branson.
Not brand bashing, I really liked my 3510, in someways better (weight and loader capabilities for sure) than my L3901, but waiting on parts to come from Korea, price and no good dealer support in my area anymore helped make my decision to replace it. I looked at the RK rebranded tractors but didn’t get a good feeling on support after the sale from Rural King.

Mike

 

[claggstractors]

“Branson part prices are getting out of hand for sure”
you said a mouthful right there, I couldn’t agree more, there’s a reason my signature no longer includes a Branson.
Not brand bashing, I really liked my 3510, in someways better (weight and loader capabilities for sure) than my L3901, but waiting on parts to come from Korea, price and no good dealer support in my area anymore helped make my decision to replace it. I looked at the RK rebranded tractors but didn’t get a good feeling on support after the sale from Rural King.

Mike

Yeah, the original 10/20 Series Bransons are very good little tractors. Parts support and pricing was better when Americans were running the distribution side of things. Same thing happened at TYM though too. Both companies can make some really good product. But seems to be they keep rushing things to market faster and faster, and in both cases, I ended up with tractors sold that they didn't have the proper diagnostic software/hardware to take care of them. Had to buy back one TYM just due to lack of tools to calibrate the clutch. They did finally, after very many emails, phone calls, and gettin' on to the rep, get me what I needed. Couple of years later though. Still don't have that stuff for the 8050's and at this point never will. Needless to say, they both became very hard sells in my area as a brand once those farmers talked.

 

[K5lwq]

I am thinking with new matched splines and the grease you probably will not have anymore issues. I sure hope so anyway.

 

[Branson Bob]

Good luck 6shotz.

Fingers crossed for you.

 

[Offroadtek]

That's wild. Hope someone chimes in with some insight.

 

[vince2]

I have a century 2028 and with about 700 hours noticed the clutch was slipping. Adjusted the clutch and clutch reengaged but I have little trust that this will be a longterm solution. Reading this post, and knowing that my tractor has not been mistreated, I may not try to fix this. Had twenty good years from this machine.