2nd solenoid????

[BlackOps]

Tried jumping it from my running car battery this AM and still the same symptoms...

 

[RjCorazza]

Tried jumping it from my running car battery this AM and still the same symptoms...

Unfortunately that does not rule out any of the possibilities previously discussed. Case in point, I had 2 batteries fail exactly as you describe. Cranked for a second or so, stopped cranking and click click. The batteries measured 12.6v, but dropped to near zero under a load test.
That said, it still sounds like resistance in a high current cable, that could be on the battery posts, starter, frame ground, internal cable corrosion, or starter ground itself. If you don't feel able to diagnose with a meter, I recommend removing, inspecting, and cleaning to bare metal all high current cable connections mentioned above - as well as load testing the battery. Cutting corners is only going to prolong your difficulties.

 

[rScotty]

Click, click, click.....and then it turned out I had to replace my Kubota battery cables after 7 years. The battery connectors had alway required twice yearly cleaning but were still good. The problem was the battery cables themselves. Fumes from the OEM wet cell battery had corroded the copper wiring inside of the insulation of the cable.

I wouldn't have even noticed, except when I moved one of the cables it "felt" wrong - too bendy, soft, and flexible.
Peeled back the insulation from the battery terminal on back, and the first 6" of the wire hidden inside was almost completely rotted away with some sort of white powdery corrosion.

I replaced the cables with new from NAPA. Eventually replaced the battery with Interstate 12v AGM that fit the space.
No more problems.

 

[BlackOps]

first i only get the 1 click and not click click click click.

2nd - i put a new battery in this AM> same thing hapens. truns over and immediately 1 click and nothing.

i am crippled and had many serious operations last 3 years so tough to bend and kneeling is painful and had total knee replacement plus open heart surgery and a few more cuttings.

rained last 2 days r so and more today and tomorrow and where it is parked just mud.

i see where the ground goes down through the frame but after that i cannot locate where it grounds to on the body. any diagrams or info. the frame of the tractor etc (bucket) is covering up my view.

thank you - will try to crawl under there this weekend when we get some drying.

the mechanic 50 miles away said to swap out battery though it was 3 months old that he put in -so i did and nothing. their phones have been down most of 2 days so i cannot get a hold of him.
trailering will be close to $400 to get it there and back.

 

[rScotty]

first i only get the 1 click and not click click click click.

2nd - i put a new battery in this AM> same thing hapens. truns over and immediately 1 click and nothing.

i am crippled and had many serious operations last 3 years so tough to bend and kneeling is painful and had total knee replacement plus open heart surgery and a few more cuttings.

rained last 2 days r so and more today and tomorrow and where it is parked just mud.

i see where the ground goes down through the frame but after that i cannot locate where it grounds to on the body. any diagrams or info. the frame of the tractor etc (bucket) is covering up my view.

thank you - will try to crawl under there this weekend when we get some drying.

the mechanic 50 miles away said to swap out battery though it was 3 months old that he put in -so i did and nothing. their phones have been down most of 2 days so i cannot get a hold of him.
trailering will be close to $400 to get it there and back.

There's no need to crawl under your tractor to trace that wire.

To avoid the difficult gymnastics as your heal up, instead just move the far end of that negative (-) ground wire to somewhere convenient. Electrically, all of the engine block as well as the frame that the engine is bolted to look the same to the battery. In fact, the tractor's electrical system does not even care how many ground wires you have. It won't get confused. The more the better. If you need space for another cable on the battery negative post, You can even disconnect the old negative battery cable from the battery, just leave it hang (it becomes a neutral) and take a nice new cable from the battery to somewhere convenient.

The only rule is that the negative battery cable should be have a substantial size - so if you replace the existing cable use one of the same thickness of the wire as what you have. And if you use several make sure that as many of them as ou can - or at least one - are bolted securely to a cleaned surface on the frame or the engine. Of course if you find a way to use multiple ground wires from the negative post of the battery they can be smaller, but I wouldn't go under half the existing cable conductor diameter.

The absolute best place to ground the battery in orderto get max power to the starter would be to put a negative ground wire leading directly from the negative battery post to under one of the bolt heads on the engine block. You could even terminate under one of the bolts or nuts that hold the starter body to the engine block.

No need to scramble and crawl under the tractor. Ground it the easiest way.
Luck,
rScotty

 

[grsthegreat]

you could also take a jumper cable and attach one end to the battery ground post and other end to good, clean, paint free bolt or frame section. see if it starts then

 

[rScotty]

you could also take a jumper cable and attach one end to the battery ground post and other end to good, clean, paint free bolt or frame section. see if it starts then

Yes, he could. He has already tried jumping the tractor battery from a running car battery with no help..but, of course if the "frame end" of his negative battery cable is the problem, then jumping from a car battery directly to his tractor battery would not have helped.

 

[doneill127]

I have a similar tractor and had the same problem a while ago. Turned out to be positive cable corrosion under the insulation near the clamp. Cut the cable back a couple inches put on a new clamp on, cleaned the ground to chassis connection and all is good. You do need to get creative and add a crimp ring terminal to replace the push on connector

Access to the battery/cable area is pretty good. lift the hood,loosen the 2 wing nuts on the black plastic grill tilt forward and it comes off after disconnecting the headlight connector. Grab the top and bottom front of the steel side cover and sharply pull. It will snap out the clips.
Wear gloves there’s some sharp edges. That will give you clear access to the battery and cable back to the starter connection.

 

[BlackOps]

just to help anyone else out. it turns out it is a key switch issue. Go Figure!

 

[LittleBill21]

just to help anyone else out. it turns out it is a key switch issue. Go Figure!

volt meter /amp meter can easily determine this, throwing parts at a machine without testing is just a waste of money

 

[BlackOps]

i did not throw any money at it. ??????????

 

[rScotty]

just to help anyone else out. it turns out it is a key switch issue. Go Figure!

Makes sense. most "starter issues" are really battery issues. Followed by battery cable ends - that's all 4 ends, then solenoids, then the key switch that activates the solenoid, and if all those fail it might be the starter itself...but rarely is.

The starter is the last thing on the list, although the things done while replacing it often also fix the real problem.

rScotty

 

[thclimer]

just to help anyone else out. it turns out it is a key switch issue. Go Figure!

Glad you found the issue and thanks for letting us know so that others can benefit from your experience.