3/8" Vs .325 chain cutting ability

[Avondale]

Is there any appreciable cutting advantage of one size chain over the other? Let us assume the same saw power head (regardless of brand or engine size), length and using 0.58 gauge as a base.

 

[CobyRupert]

IMHO: Night and day difference. 3/8" cut way better.

 

[4570Man]

3/8 cuts better with enough power. I run 3/8 on both of my saws, but the little one ( 3.5 hp ) cuts better with .325.

 

[bobmisi]

Either chain will cut great if the saw is running right and the chain is properly sharpened. 3/8 requires more horsepower and is therefore found on the larger saws. A small saw with a 3/8 chain will be overworked and stop more readily than a .325 chain. A 3/8 chain will cut faster mainly because it is on a larger saw and is taking a bigger chip out and probably revving higher. Both can work great if on the right saw.

 

[CobyRupert]

It should go without saying, but maybe not: The same amount of work done in less time takes more power (by definition).

 

[ovrszd]

It should go without saying, but maybe not: The same amount of work done in less time takes more power (by definition).

Yep. one of the factors in the HP formula is time.

 

[zzvyb6]

Yep. one of the factors in the HP formula is time.

And Einstein's formula basiclly says Time = 1/Money.

 

[LD1]

Dont forget to throw 3/8LP chain in the mix too.

In theory though The .325 or 3/8LP chain "should" cut faster on the same saw. Because both create a narrower kerf than regular 3/8 chain. And less wood removed means less work done. And if HP is the same, doing less work should get done quicker.

But theory and reality dont always align.

 

[dfkrug]

Dont forget to throw 3/8LP chain in the mix too.

In theory though The .325 or 3/8LP chain "should" cut faster on the same saw. Because both create a
narrower kerf than regular 3/8 chain. And less wood removed means less work done.

Yeah, it is not as simple as .325 vs. 3/8. Some chains skip one link between teeth; some skip more.
Some chains sport special rakers. Some are extra wide. Curved teeth vs. square.

If a saw has the power, you can up the drive sprocket tooth count or file the rakers down a bit for
a bigger bite. Chains are cheap. Keep 'em sharp.

 

[LD1]

Yeah, it is not as simple as .325 vs. 3/8. Some chains skip one link between teeth; some skip more.
Some chains sport special rakers. Some are extra wide. Curved teeth vs. square.

If a saw has the power, you can up the drive sprocket tooth count or file the rakers down a bit for
a bigger bite. Chains are cheap. Keep 'em sharp.

Yep. IMO, there are alot more important variables other than simply 3/8 vs .325. You hit on most of them.

An 8 tooth .325 is not going to have the same chain speed as an 8 tooth 3/8.
Chisel, semi-chisel, round
Rakers is a good one. On my big saw I keep them about double what the 0.025" norm is.


When making a decision between 3/8 and .325, for me it aint about speed at all. Its about lonjevity of the chain. 3/8" chains have bigger teeth, less likely to break if you hit something, and last longer, (more sharpening) before there is no tooth left. To me, that is the reason to choose 3/8 over .325. Not for speed

 

[Sawyer Rob]

When making a decision between 3/8 and .325, for me it aint about speed at all. Its about lonjevity of the chain. 3/8" chains have bigger teeth, less likely to break if you hit something, and last longer, (more sharpening) before there is no tooth left. To me, that is the reason to choose 3/8 over .325. Not for speed

You STOLE my answer!! lol

I HATE .325 chain! That is why, when I bought my new Husqvarna 550xp I switched it over to 3/8 chain, right away!

I went from a 20" bar/.325 to a 16"/3/8" chain and it made a REAL saw out of it! lol

ooooooh, did I mention that I HATE .325 chain!!?

SR

 

[4570Man]

Another advantage is there is less bar pinching with 3/8 chain. IMO the 3/8 is easier to sharpen especially free handed.

 

[stuckmotor]

We seem to have several differient opinions here from commenters with many variables. It might help if to know the chain size, saw size, bar length, tooth configuration (full tooth or skip tooth and how many skips), and whether the chains are used strictly for cross cutting or milling lumber. I'm thinking of getting a big saw for milling and am really interested in this topic.

 

[motownbrowne]

No one has mentioned this yet, so I'll say that the larger the pitch of the chain (which corresponds to larger cutters) the longer it stays sharp, all other things being equal.

Personally, I prefer 3/8 full compliment semi-chisel chain for most stuff, but for some reason I'm not using much of it. It's sort of stupid, but I've got 3/8 low profile on my new Dolmar 421- it really cuts fast and stays sharp better than expected. Not as hard to sharpen as I thought either.

.325 narrow kerf on my Shindaiwa 488-it was a crime of opportunity. Seems to cut just fine, but it's low quality Oregon chain.

3/8 full comp full chisel on my 036 Stihl- I've got enough saws that this pretty much only gets used for bucking clean wood, mostly softwood. Dulls fast but very fun when sharp.

3/8 full comp semi chisel on my ms460 Stihl- like I said, it's my favorite. Might be a tad slower than if I put full chisel on it, but stays sharp longer and is much more forgiving to sharpen by hand.

What saw and bar size are you considering?

 

[stuckmotor]

Motownbrown,
Thanks for the details. I like the price on the Ecko CS800P (80.7cc) with the shortest bar available 24". I'm also interested in a Husqvarna 395 (93.6cm). For the sake of comparison I guess I'd want around a 24" bar on it too. My understanding is that a shorter bar will be easier on the saw so I'd want an additional 16" or 18" bar for either saw if I could find one.

 

[Avondale]

Thank You all for your input to my original question, I went with the 3/8" on my new 562XP with 20" bar. Other option I was looking at was the 550XP with the .325
Bob

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Thank You all for your input to my original question, I went with the 3/8" on my new 562XP with 20" bar. Other option I was looking at was the 550XP with the .325
Bob

I wouldn't have even considered .325 on a 562xp, I have the same saw in Jonsered color and it "easily" runs a 3/8-20" bar... I also (as I posted above) a 550xp and it "easily" runs 3/8-16" bar...

To the guy looking at a 395, have you ever run a 395?? For a 24" bar you certainly don't need a 395... You will be on the "rev limiter" a lot with that short of a bar! A 372 runs a 24" bar nicely and it's lighter, uses less fuel and cost less.

SR

 

[Sawyer Rob]

I'm thinking of getting a big saw for milling and am really interested in this topic

For milling with a chainsaw, you need to go to a "chainsaw milling" specific forum, that's where you will get info from plenty of guys that have LOT'S of chainsaw milling experience, and have it all figured out!

SR

 

[xyz123]

I like 3/8 over 325. I like 3/8LP PS PS3 over 325 too. Only time I have used 325 over the others is on a underpowered 50cc saw that couldnt pull full 3/8.

I also switched my 346 550 545 over to 3/8 when new.

Learn more http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php

Only 325 advantage I found was when it comes to limbing as it is smoother limbing. Plus the bars were lighter in same lengths.

Otherwise 3/8 beats 325 all day for bucking and cutting speed.

 

[stuckmotor]

To the guy looking at a 395, have you ever run a 395?? For a 24" bar you certainly don't need a 395... You will be on the "rev limiter" a lot with that short of a bar! A 372 runs a 24" bar nicely and it's lighter, uses less fuel and cost less.
SR

Rob,
Not only have I never run a 395, I've never seen one in person. To make matters worse, my Stihl dealer has recently become the local Husky dealer and one of his salesmen told me he'd never seen a 395 either. I don't think I've known of a chainsaw miller to complain that his saw had too much power though.