3 board fence help - post setting, preserving, and finish (stain etc)

   / 3 board fence help - post setting, preserving, and finish (stain etc) #11  
Hazmat,

That dollar increase in price just cost me a thousand bucks. Darn!!!

One thing I forgot to mention about vinyl fences are the gates are pure junk. It's probably the biggest flaw with them. Instead of using what they sell, I bought a normal ranch gate and attached three rails to it with self taping screws.

The trick is making the post strong enough to suppor the gate. I bought some 5 inch square metal tubing, cut the notches for the rails and welded on the hinges. I set it in concrete and attached the gate. It's solid!!!

I've seen inserts that you can buy to stiffen the vinyl posts that are supposed to do the same thing. I've also read that rebar and concrete inside the post will also work. Another option is trimming down a 6x6 post to fit inside the vinly post and pour concrete to hold it in place.

Here's what my gate looks like.

Eddie
 

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   / 3 board fence help - post setting, preserving, and finish (stain etc) #12  
I put in around 325' linear feet of picket fence around parts of my yard about 12 years ago. 4x4 pt posts with 2x4 pt rails and alternating pt 1x4 & 1x2 pickets. We also wanted it painted white and I went with Behr's Solid Stain (pinto white). I am very pleased with the appearance and it held up very well. I just recently had it repainted (sprayed) with the same product. I set the posts in concrete and there are no signs whatsoever of rotting at the base. The environment down here is pretty harsh with high humidity and rainfall in the summer along with your occasional hurricanes. The only thing I would be concerned about is the new pt wood formula. I have used alot of the old formula(CCA) pressure treated wood on various projects with very good results as far as not rotting or falling subject to pest damage. On my fence I let it weather over 6 months to make sure the moisture was out before painting it. Not sure if the new stuff would require any different steps.
 
   / 3 board fence help - post setting, preserving, and finish (stain etc)
  • Thread Starter
#13  
Since the fence company wants $4k for the labor - ($3,100 fence, $650 demo, $250 to add wire mesh) I'm itching to do the job myself. How long will it take assuming 3pt post hole digger or rental unit? I haven't dug many holes, but I've never dug up a rock in my yard. Yes - very rare for New England, but my yard is ancient river silt.

I'm thinking 45 hours + gate (1 hour each 8 foot section to dig hole, set post & nail on 3 rails. Am I way off base? I know it is dependent on how fast the auger works & if there actually rocks in there...

I'm trying to convince the wife to get a backhoe with the new tractor - seems she'd rather give the fence company $4,000 than let me get the backhoe. Sometimes women go beyond illogical to spiteful:eek: Maybe I should buy her some flowers:rolleyes:
 
   / 3 board fence help - post setting, preserving, and finish (stain etc)
  • Thread Starter
#14  
EddieWalker said:
Hazmat,

That dollar increase in price just cost me a thousand bucks. Darn!!!

The price of PVC is directly tied to the price of oil.
 
   / 3 board fence help - post setting, preserving, and finish (stain etc) #15  
i would figure on a nice long weekend. If there is no rock then you will fly through it with the auger. Just watch your pants, they like to grab.
.... but since you have a fence in place, why not just use the holes that you will have when you rip out the posts. you have the layout already so your just "replacing". i would think that it would go so much faster then you think. plus demo is always fun. once you rip out a post just put a new one in its place have two up fit the rails and move on.
I had hit a couple bad shelves of rock that i had to move the fence a foot or so to one side. This caused me to have to reorder some rails and it took me a bit longer to finish. But after the rails were done i made my gates and added the fencing. I did put on the automatic latches but the dogs worked together to get out now i have the manual latches and the dogs stay put.
after the fencing i sprayed it. The fence just blends right in.
good luck
Forgeblast
 
   / 3 board fence help - post setting, preserving, and finish (stain etc)
  • Thread Starter
#16  
I'd love to just pull & replace, but we are moving 2 (of 4) sides of the fence. Additionally, the exisiting posts are only set 18" to 24" in the ground. I'd like to go 3-4 feet for better stability - so I still need the auger (or a shovel & strong back)
 
   / 3 board fence help - post setting, preserving, and finish (stain etc) #17  
hazmat said:
I'm thinking 45 hours + gate (1 hour each 8 foot section to dig hole, set post & nail on 3 rails. Am I way off base? I know it is dependent on how fast the auger works & if there actually rocks in there...

An hour a post is usually pretty safe. On my tractor, it's about five minutes to dig the hole, but more like ten minutes getting into position and lining it up.

With a two man, hand held auger, it's allot faster to set it up and drill them straight.

I've never ran a one man auger, but I've dug allot of holes by hand. About a month ago, I pulled ten posts and reused two holes, dug six new holes, set the posts and filled with concrete in six hours by myself.

It really depends on your soil and what you run into. A hole an hour should be pretty easy to do, but one bad hole and you can spend all day on it.

Take your time and it's pretty simple to do your own fence. Stop when you're tired and don't settle for "good enough."

Eddie
 
   / 3 board fence help - post setting, preserving, and finish (stain etc) #18  
Howdy all...

I grew up in rural horse country Virginia; built mile after mile of fence using locust post and oak rail. This was during the 70's and its all still there.

Been in OK for quite a while so I have to ask...in the area from PA down to VA, is nobody using locust/oak anymore.

I know one thing has changed. Even the rich can no longer afford to paint white; most is creosote.
 
   / 3 board fence help - post setting, preserving, and finish (stain etc) #19  
One mor ething.. And you probably already know this so ignore if you do.. remember to stagger the gap on the rails.. I' start top and bottom rails with full 16' board, and have middle rail start with an 8' board.. go from there..

Soundguy

hazmat said:
I'd love to just pull & replace, but we are moving 2 (of 4) sides of the fence. Additionally, the exisiting posts are only set 18" to 24" in the ground. I'd like to go 3-4 feet for better stability - so I still need the auger (or a shovel & strong back)
 
   / 3 board fence help - post setting, preserving, and finish (stain etc) #20  
KaiB- I plan on using locust for the fence I need to put up on our property in N. Carolina. It is still used alot around here for fenceposts, split rails, bridges, etc. Lasts forever, very strong but hard as a rock even when green. I will be pre drilling before using screws and lags. Can get it at alot of the small mills that are scattered around here.
 

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