3-car shop

[RabbitHutch]

Hi again folks. I've finally finished a really, really big project this year and am ready to move on to the next big thang in my life... a shop. a shop that's warm in the winter and cool and breezy in the summer. Is that too much for a girl to ask for.

So... I have some questions so I can get my materials together.

1. Do I need that pink stuff under the 2x4 that's j-bolted to the slab? I saw it on ustmd's post for his bldg. Is that just for drafts?

2. 5/8"plywood tongue-grooved for roof? Is there a grade like A/D or A/C or something I should get?

3. 1/2"plywood for walls... is that tongue-grooved as well or regular? Grade?

4. The walls will NOT bare the weight of the roof. The poles will hold up the roof. What on-center spacing for the studs can I get away with? I will be insulating and don't really want to cut width of insulation to fit, but I don't want the walls to be flimsy between the poles. I was thinking 24"OC too big and maybe going with 19"OC. Thoughts ??

5. I have read folks screwing the sheet metal directly to the plywood without a strap/girt. I don't know why, but I am wary of this. I guess for the same reason I want to put straps/purlins on top of the roof decking. Any thoughts or reasons for one way or the other would be appreciated.

Thanks all,

Michele

 

[ustmd]

1. Do I need that pink stuff under the 2x4 that's j-bolted to the slab? I saw it on ustmd's post for his bldg. Is that just for drafts?

2. 5/8"plywood tongue-grooved for roof? Is there a grade like A/D or A/C or something I should get?

3. 1/2"plywood for walls... is that tongue-grooved as well or regular? Grade?

4. The walls will NOT bare the weight of the roof. The poles will hold up the roof. What on-center spacing for the studs can I get away with? I will be insulating and don't really want to cut width of insulation to fit, but I don't want the walls to be flimsy between the poles. I was thinking 24"OC too big and maybe going with 19"OC. Thoughts ??

5. I have read folks screwing the sheet metal directly to the plywood without a strap/girt. I don't know why, but I am wary of this. I guess for the same reason I want to put straps/purlins on top of the roof decking. Any thoughts or reasons for one way or the other would be appreciated.


Michele

Hiya,

It looks like everything is progressing well.

To give you some ideas:

1. The pink stuff does stop drafts, but it also functions as a moisture barrier between the slab and the wood. Even with pressure treated wood, you do not wantwood in direct contact with concrete. You can also use a zig-zag bead of construction adhesive. The pink stuff is not expensive, I think I paid $5 for a 50ft roll.

2. Tongue in groove material is for floor decking (for example on a second floor). For the roof you want to use OSB sheathing (most like 9/16ths--depending on the spacing of the rafters). Also, you want to get the panel spacing clips for the sheathing. The clips are in the section of Home Depot or Lowes that has the Strong Tie parts. You want some spacing between the panels for ventalation.

3. You should use OSB sheathing for the walls as well (no tongue in groove). You can use plywood, but it will be much more expensive (OSB will be ~$10 for a 4 x 8 sheet vs $20 (or more) per sheet for plywood).

4. How tall are you walls? Are you using 2 x 4 for studs? 24" OC should be okay. You will need to use a thicker sheathing 9/16 or 3/4).

5. I can offer no intelligent opinion on this. I did not use purlins/straps under my metal roof. I have seen people go either way.

 

[RabbitHutch]

Here is the pic of existing cover removed. I've ordered the material and will start the beams for the roof in the near future.

Thank you everyone in advance for observations/comments/recommendations.

 

[RabbitHutch]

2x12x24's were delivered. I start making the double beams.

 

[ustmd]

2x12x24's were delivered. I start making the double beams.

Having just lifted 2 x 10 x 24 for my shop, I hope you have help for those.

Good luck.

 

[RabbitHutch]

I have a beam question:

the beam is 2-2x12x36'. It will be 4 pieces 14'-22' on one side and 22'-14' on the other with plywood in the middle. Bolted every ~12' to a post.

At 10# dead load (more probably 7#) each span will carry ~1500#.

Q: Do I still need to put a crown the beam? and is it possible to do so with the design mentioned above? Will it sag that much?

Thanks. Someone mentioned this and it has me worried.