3 point alteration

[Gramps in NM]

2005 4wd Taskmaster (dongfeng) with loader and rear blade. 2 hyd. pumps, one main one for steering.
Morning all. This is for a starting point on a 3 point discussion. I have lots of distance to cover while using a 5' rear blade on GRAVEL/DIRT roads/drive. I use it also for snow removal. Yes there is snow in NM. Had 17" here to date this winter.
Problem- 3 points do not raise and lower with any degree of accuracy, another words it's difficult to keep from going to deep (I also have steep slopes) or to unload a small amount of material over a given distance. Try to raise the blade just a little and it goes up to far. It seems no matter how the thing is adjusted it does not provide the adjustments that would come with say a hydraulic piston.

Solution-Need More by the way- My idea for you smart hydraulic folks. What if the top link were replaced with a hydraulic cylinder. I realize the top link is mainly a pitch adjustment for the blade and to provide stability but it also does provide a small amount of adjustment in the up/down plane. 1-1 1/2 inches, perhaps more. This would be enough to fine tune the height of the blade to keep from digging in to deep on soft material and also allow for a small amount of material to be dropped from the blade while moving along over a distance. It of course would need to have a source of pressure and the needed lines, valves and so on. I have no idea on how to hook up such a thing so need help in that area for sure. How about it, is it feasible? Would it provide needed control? How could you hook up such a gizzmo.
Ideas anyone?

 

[smince]

Check out this epic thread by Rob where he (among other things) adds hydraulic top and side links to his wife's Jinma 284. He does amazing work and details just about everything he used in the project.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/chinese-tractors/137819-new-mods-lorettas-284-jinma.html

 

[TTTTTT]

I added a hydraulic toplink a few years ago. Probably the single best addition I have done. Fantastic for any 3pt manipulations. The versatility it gives you is great. I have it hooked to one set of remotes that i can control easily. The video shows what you are talking about. You only have to watch if you extend it to far it bites into the ground which is great for certain things but not necessarily for snow removal.



Another with a 3pt crane i picked up cheap



Cheers Dave

 

[greg_g]

A HTL is an invaluable tool, but would be minimally helpful in resolving your scraper blade issue. Before spending the money - or possibly entering into some possibly irreversible mod - you might want to start by cleaning the valve that's associated with the lift lever. You should have more control over those arms than you describe. Another thing is to determine whether or not your DF has draft control. If yes, its sole purpose is to keep ground engagement implements from digging too deep.

//greg//

 

[smince]

Another with a 3pt crane i picked up cheap



Cheers Dave

That crane setup is really slick. What kind of lift capacity does it have, and is that a second cylinder attachment point on the boom for more lift at a restricted range?

 

[Gramps in NM]

Have looked at both the links given and all the pics and video, WOW, what fantastic ideas and work. Really impressive.
My manual does not mention draft control but based on my experience with my old 8N and another unit I believe it's there. I have limit stops for both up and down on the 3PT lever control also. It does work smooth and the control is ok, just not what I would like when considering soft ground/gravel. That's what prompted my query. I would like more finite control considering the terrain I work in. Attached are shots of the upper level of my driveway.
I'm going to look into this more but believe my answer lies in adding a cylinder and control. From what those who have done it say, it's the cats MEOW.

 

[TTTTTT]

That crane setup is really slick. What kind of lift capacity does it have, and is that a second cylinder attachment point on the boom for more lift at a restricted range?

Not sure the capacity. It will vary of course on how far out your going to lift something and how much front ballast you put on to balance. If your lifting with the feet from the 3pt on the ground you will have more capacity but can't move around with a heavy load. It has been handy to move things into tight spaces. The boom extends out another 3-4'. That front lifting point is just to lift from. I don't think the cylinder can attach there although I may look a little closer at that. I have a 3pt adapter for my FEL that I want to put this on and give even greater reach. not something you use all the time but for lifting trusses or things that need precise lifting, very handy.

Dave

 

[smince]

Attached are shots of the upper level of my driveway.

That's a beautiful drive you have. It looks as smooth as my concrete drive, nice work! :thumbsup:

 

[Bob Rooks]

...it's the cats MEOW.

Well, I have to say that about your drive. It's beautiful! I'm hoping you didn't hand place all of that stone work that lines the drive. :confused2:

 

[Gramps in NM]

Unfortunately we did just that with the stones, placed by hand after hauling in a trailer behind the ATV. There is several hundred feet not shown also, all from our "mountain". No fancy mortared walls here, left it as natural as possible. Glad you like it, just need to rework the place now after the last snow removal, but expect 6-8 inches tonight.

 

[wcampbell47]

I borrowed a scraper blade but was not really happy with the results and my lack of finite control over the hydraulics. Purchased a landscape rake which works fairly well scraping and moving dirt - same lack of control. I stumbled across Everything Attachments video demonstrating a land plane. I traded a tool bar with middle busters for a 5' land plane and have not looked back since.

I am adding a hyd top link as I have discovered that adjusting the top link can control the amount of bite the front blade has. I can go from cutting 3/4 inch to just skimming the top of the material which allows the rear blade to just smooth.

Have received great reviews for leveling back yards and grading just prior to laying sod. I had the dealer install the hyd remote and purchased a top link from Fit Rite. The top link has not arrived ... maybe it will be here in time for Christmas.

 

[Bob Rooks]

Forgot to mention that I too have a grader-scraper, a Rankin. Since these pics were taken, I have added a hydraulic top link. Makes the grader-scraper even better when I thought that would be impossible.

 

[qstott]

Seems like the perfect application for a box blade. My box blade has two opposing blades at the rear. Kinda like this )( If you want to drag more, tilt the top of the box toward the tractor, and it will dig more. If you want to spread what you have gathered, tilt the top away from the tractor and it will run out underneath the front blade and the rear blade will smooth it. I have a gravel drive and used a box blade for years and would just adjust the top link by hand. After I installed a hyd top link it was a real pleasure to use it. A regular rear scraper blade is just not that user friendly when trying to smooth a driveway. It's great for slanting the edges and moving stuff around, but does a different job than a box blade. And BTW, it is a great looking drive! If you could rent or borrow a box blade you will be impressed with how easy the job will be from now on.

 

[whynot162]

I have the same issue removing light snow from my driveway. I have thought about just adding a bracket to the back of the blade for a skid shoe to keep it slightly off the gravel. But have not idea how to do it.

On my tractor on the side of the where the PTO on off lever is there is a little un-marked lever, that controls the up down speed of the 3pt. If yours has one, and you close it a little, it will make it move slower, hence more accurate.
Mine looks almost like the top of a key for a 3/4 drill. Mine is a different brand, but never hurts to look for something similar.

 

[Gramps in NM]

Love these reply's, keep them coming. Sure seems I'm not the only one with rear blade issues. I do have an adjustment for the drop speed on my 3 Pt, it is like a faucet handle. Still not that control I'm looking for. I'm almost on the verge of calling Chip at Artrac and seeing what he has that might work for me. Of course cost has yet to be determined. Ouch. I think these reply's are helping others besides me. Great responses.

 

[Bob77064]

Gramps, you sure did a fine job on that driveway.

 

[TTTTTT]

Love these reply's, keep them coming. Sure seems I'm not the only one with rear blade issues. I do have an adjustment for the drop speed on my 3 Pt, it is like a faucet handle. Still not that control I'm looking for. I'm almost on the verge of calling Chip at Artrac and seeing what he has that might work for me. Of course cost has yet to be determined. Ouch. I think these reply's are helping others besides me. Great responses.

Gramps, beautiful drive! I can see why you want to be careful and not tear it up too much. Can't find the post , but others have added adjustable/removable wheels similar to skid shoes to the back off the blade. It could roll behind you without worrying about adjusting the height perfectly. You could have your 3pt all the way down 'floating' on the wheels similar to a 3pt mower.

Dave

 

[Diamondpilot]

I have a old Ford 5' Bush Hog. It has chains that are go from the lower lift pins to the place where the 3rd member connects to the tractor. The brackets have groves cut in them to allow for adjustment. You can still lift the 3 point but it limits the drop of the 3 point. This could be used with not only the Bush Hog but all 3 point implements.

Mine look like and work like these with the exception that at the tractor it is secured where the 3rd members pin connects instead of the mounting points this gentleman used.

http://www.ntractorclub.com/howtos/pdfs/limiterchains.pdf

Chris

 

[Gramps in NM]

Sure appreciate all the input. Have decided to install skid plates as a first solution. Have a front blade on my large ATV and it helps there. Need to pick up some steel and fab some thing. Thinking about a ski shape and make them removable. Just had a little more that 12 inches of snow and plowed yesterday. That nice looking drive that some of you commented on does not look so good anymore. Oh well, when spring comes and things dry out I will have the fun of starting all over again. What more can a guy ask for right? Still have the cylinder idea to fall back on. Always go cheap and simple first.
Thanks,
Gramps