3 point hitch adjustment

[JerryG]

An other thing to keep in mind. A couple of years ago, there was a member here that kept breaking sway chains and couplers. After several were broke, he finely found out what was going on. He would tighten them up pretty tight because he didn't want the implement to sway. The reason that they kept breaking was because the pivot point for the front of the chains wasn't in line with the pivot point of the lift arm. He would adjust the chains when the implement was on the ground or just off of the ground, then when he would raise it the chain would get even tighter. That was when the chains would stretch and break the welds. I can't remember the brand or model of tractor, but it wouldn't take the pivot points being off very much to cause a conflict.

 

[AndyMA]

I don't think you can use fixed arms. Hwo will you get them on and also many implements have different spacing. I run mine fairly tight because I think it probvides much less "shock" load on the setup. I have been doing this for about 40 years and have yet to break any of the 3pt arms.

Andy

 

[Farmwithjunk]

I don't think you can use fixed arms. Hwo will you get them on and also many implements have different spacing. I run mine fairly tight because I think it probvides much less "shock" load on the setup. I have been doing this for about 40 years and have yet to break any of the 3pt arms.

Andy

I'm with Andy on this one. As mentioned, some implements require use without sway bars/chains/blocks, but when they're needed, they work best when "tight". On 2 of my tractors they vary in adjustment ever-so-slightly from top to bottom of travel as Jerry mentioned earlier. I set them tight at the tightest point in their travel, and that allows a very slight degree of movement at the opposite end of their travel. Likewise, in over 40 years I've yet to break a 3-point draft arm.

 

[BWSwede]

I am a little confused. MtnViewRanch has a good point about the adjustable, but once pinned, fixed length sway bars. If a tractor has this type (as I saw over the weekend a JD dealership) how does one make steering corrections with a plow in the ground?

I am fairly new to the world of tractors and as such didn't understand that even though there are standards for cat 0, cat 1, cat 2, and cat 3 hitches that there are variances within the standards. Would someone mind elaborating? Are the non-standard ones made before the standards were created?

As far as getting a fixed width hitch off and on I would use lower arm ends like the ones found on the quick hitches.

That is great news from the folks who made comments about running a pretty tight chains and haven't broke anything in decades, just curious how heavy your tractors are and whether there is a enough mass on your tractors to damage the pins.

Thanks for all the input guys. This is a real learning experience for me.

Best,
Blane

 

[Farmwithjunk]

That is great news from the folks who made comments about running a pretty tight chains and haven't broke anything in decades, just curious how heavy your tractors are and whether there is a enough mass on your tractors to damage the pins.

Best,
Blane

My experience runs the gammit from 32hp/4000lb tractors to the biggest I owned, a 110hp,11,000lb mfwd and all points in between. Yes they would have been big enough to break hitch pins.

 

[BWSwede]

Farmwithjunk,

From a previous post it sounds like you run your chains tight. Also from a previous post I thought I understood that doing so would not allow for slight turns or even steering corrections with ground engaging attachments. Am I missing something? How do you steer with a plow in the ground?

Just trying to understand.

Thanks,
Blane

 

[firemanpat2910]

I am a little confused. MtnViewRanch has a good point about the adjustable, but once pinned, fixed length sway bars. If a tractor has this type (as I saw over the weekend a JD dealership) how does one make steering corrections with a plow in the ground?

On my Ford 2910 there are several slots cut in the outer sleeve, and in different locations the inner sleeve, so you put the pin in and let it "float" for the length of the slot(s).
I use them with the disc and with the covington planters.

 

[BWSwede]

Fireman,

I saw that type at the dealership as well, which from what little I know, seems to be a better setup. It begs the question, why would a manufacturer put fixed length sway bars on a tractor? From what I have learned on this post, it seems one needs to have "sway" in order to steer a tractor with a ground engaged attachment.

Thanks,
Blane

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Farmwithjunk,

From a previous post it sounds like you run your chains tight. Also from a previous post I thought I understood that doing so would not allow for slight turns or even steering corrections with ground engaging attachments. Am I missing something? How do you steer with a plow in the ground?

Just trying to understand.

Thanks,
Blane

Very simple... I don't use ANY stabilizer bars with a plow. Both of my smaller tractors use limiter chains to prevent the draft arms from getting into the tires and solid flat bar stabilizers when you want no movement at all. My bigger tractor uses a cast iron sway block. The bars are left in the barn on the 2 smaller ones, and the blocks are turned to where they allow sideways movement on the bigger tractor when plowing, discing (with a mounted disc) and planting.