3 point hitch log lift

   / 3 point hitch log lift #11  
I tend to start at the top of the pile and cut what I can reach, then run the forks under the lower logs, lifting them up on top of the pieces already cut. When the pile gets too unwieldy I split what I can. I'm normally working alone and can take all summer to get my wood cut so its not a hi-speed arraingement, but it works for me.
 
   / 3 point hitch log lift #12  
I did something very similar allthough I used 2" heavy wall tube for the forks. About 2' long. Works great for lifting the logs.

I Had some angle iron when laid in the corner of the bucket was the perfect inside dimensions for standard 2" tubing. Allthough you could also use actual hitch tubing if you wanted.

I drilled and tapped a hole at the very back of the fork and put a bolt in to keep them from falling out and it doesnt put any stress on a crosspin.

I chose the very corners of the bucket for strength. That way I am not just welded to the bottom lip, but rather the side plate as well. One of the best parts is if you use the 2" tube like this, you can put you reciever inserts in as well for moving trailers. I have also made two short "stub" forks that dont extend beyone the bucket edge. I got tired of digging all the dirt out when I wanted to put the forks on.

And another benifit I found out is, when cutting wood, I can get a log in the air that is about double what I can actually lift. Once under the log, plat the heel of the bucket into the gound and rollback. Most loaders have more breakout/curl force than lift force. By planting the heel, you arent putting any added weight on the front end, and the geometry of the bucket and curl back angle allows you to get a log a good 10" off the ground.

Clever-er yet! I like the plug tube idea to keep it clear when moving soil. I think I'll do something similar and rig some sort of guard on top of the bucket or uprights off the forks as Egon suggests to avoid any "log on me" shenanigans. Thanks for the ideas, guys.
-Jim
 
   / 3 point hitch log lift #13  
If you're looking to make a guard, it might as well be dual purpose. Mine was designed to be a snow screen originally, but I think it would work for this as well. It's angled up the back of the bucket, you'd really have to work at getting the log on top of you. I already have holes drilled in the reinforced bottom of the bucket for my winter skid shoes, I may make some short forks to bolt on there for firewood season. I really don't want to weld anything on the inside of the bucket.

Sean
 

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   / 3 point hitch log lift #14  
Sean,
Nice guard. It makes sense to have it separate from the forks for brush and deep snow handling. There have been a few times I almost rolled the top of a pile of soil onto myself. More options. Less decisions. Must think.
-Jim
 
   / 3 point hitch log lift #15  
Thanks Jim,

Now after seeing the latest bucket fork thread in the build-it-yourself forum I find myself needing more steel...:)

It'll keep 'til after the holidays, but I AM going to build a set of those.

I used 2 inch square tube with 1/8 wall, so it's plenty strong for what I use it for. Snow is normally light enough that a full normal bucketful doesn't weigh much, and I hate having it spill back over the top of the bucket when I'm pushing. 4 3/8 holes in the bucket and a couple of carriage bolts on both sides are all I used for attaching it.

Sean
 

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