3-Point Hitch 3-point hitch log skidder

[Chilly807]

I've used mine for one season so far, works pretty well. There are four grab hooks mounted at the top to hang chokers from.



Sean

 

[HarleyScooter]

Hey, HarleyScooter that looks like a great setup. What are the wider clevis attactment points on the bucket for. Thanks, Dan

They are for a set of brush forks.

 

[savageactor7]

savageactor7
Do you always run without pins in the drawbar or do you crank the turnbuckles tight so they are not needed?

Yup after bending a turnbuckle because of too much play. I crank the turnbuckles tight so there not needed. The 2 ears below the PTO are pinned.

My son came up with that quick efficient hook up but it's better without the hitch pins.

 

[Rusty4242]

HarleyScooter, what type/model valves did you by and where did you mount them? Some pix of that set up would sure be appreciated. why not tap into the loader valve fro the grapple valve? Thanks a million.

 

[HarleyScooter]

HarleyScooter, what type/model valves did you by and where did you mount them? Some pix of that set up would sure be appreciated. why not tap into the loader valve fro the grapple valve? Thanks a million.

Rusty, I used Kubota valves and hooked into where the backhoe hyd lines are. I already had the rear remotes so eight extra feet of hose was a lot cheaper than the extra valve set up, it took a little getting use to but now it is no problem.

 

[Mudfarmer]

easygo - that is a monster. I like it. You should make 'em and sell 'em
Mf

 

[SWLT]

Rusty4242, Many of the responses to your original question are reasonable. The concern about stumps preventing backing to the log seems puzzling. Why waste the wood left in a tall stump. We cut all stumps at ground level to eliminate later problems. The other recommendations about jerry rigging: Be certain to PULL the load below your axle, not on the 3 point. If not, flip over is very possible. Any of the chain choker suggestions will work, after lifting the log and setting the choker, then climbing off and releasing the chain/chokers. As it was suggested, if there are numerous logs to be moved, you will find the convenience of never leaving your tractor to hook up, pull out and drop off any log that is within the 22" diameter and that your tractor will handle safely, is well worth the price of the Small Wood Lot Tools equipment.

 

[Baby Grand]

To restate SWLT's comment, this is my basic rule:
Lift with the 3pt; pull with the drawbar.
And by drawbar, I mean the one that's permanently under your rear axle.



It's a little more work to make both hitches, but there's never a hint of the front end go skyward.
I usually use a choker chain and and a grab link on the drawbar instead of the 1" rope.
That particular log was to big to get the choker chain around with enough left to reach the drawbar, hence the rope.
This is especially imortant if you try to climb a substantial grade with a similar load.

I have a HF quick hitch that I plan to modify with a blade on the bottom and a beam on the top for holding the tongs. A separate draught chain will be hitched to the drawbar.

 

[navistar505]

I am going to start building a log skidder for my tractor soon but before I do I figured I would pick your brains a little bit.
I am thinking of building something similar to the picture attached but I am going to add a electric winch
I am not planing to put a hydrolic top link on mine. I guess I could do with out it unless their is a good reason for having it.
Any suggestions on things to add?

 

[SWLT]

Whenever there is a load being pulled, it must be pulled from the draw bar to insure tractor safety and avoid flip over. The attached photos, appear to place the pulling load above the draw bar which makes the pull unsafe.
Take a look at Small Wood Lot Tools - Timber Maintenance, Pre-commercial Thinning, Firewood, Fuel Reduction Cat 1, 3 Point Log Skidder Attachment. That tool provides hands off hook up, lifting and drop off. Additionally, the pulling load is attached to the tractor's draw bar.
If it is the fun of building your own, then please be sure to attach all pulling loads to the draw bar, NOT the 3 point lift arms or top link. If you want a tool to pull your logs, then visit that web site and you will likely save some money compared to the system shown in the your attached photos.

 

[Chilly807]

I'm going to chime in briefly. Pulling from the 3 point is manageable under the right conditions, or no one would offer logging winches for sale. While no activity is entirely safe or foolproof, the risks can be managed if you understand them.
The single biggest danger to hauling logs from the 3 point is having them hook on an immovable object, which tends to make the front of the tractor rise. If it rises far enough, it can flip over backwards. Don't haul entire trees, limb the trunks cleanly to reduce the snag risk. You want the tips of the trunks you're hauling to slide smoothly over the ground, they stay cleaner and use less power to move too.
The advantage of the winch is that the butt of the log is protected by the body of the winch, making it hard to hook on a stump or high spot. I'd suggest biting the bullet and buying a purpose made winch from a recognized, respected manufacturer if you're uncomfortable with assuming the risk.
In the years since this thread started I've bought a used logging winch. It wasn't the safety aspect that bothered me, it was trying to drag a thousand pound chunk of maple over a hundred feet through brush and snow several times a day that convinced me to get the right gear for the job.
I'm all for saving some money where I can and I like building my own gear to do it, but there are times when it's just not worth doing. For me, this was one of them.
If you do go this route, remember to pull as low as possible, and keep the log butt tucked safely up away from snags, behind something solid like a winch blade. Drive slowly with the load attached, keeping in mind you may have to stop suddenly. My foot is never far from the clutch while hauling. And, use the ROPS and seat belt like your life depended on it. It does.
Sean

 

[David Devuono]

Don't tractors have L+R brakes so you can steer when your front tires are off the ground? Seriously though, With a sawmill and many log structures built, I have done a lot of skidding. Now a days, bringing logs to my saw mill means minimal dirt so I skid with my loader bucket so I can lift as necessary to minimize the dirt. When I get to a main trail I carry the log if its 10' or less in length. There is a 1,000 ways to die, logging and working with tractors. Build your logging device with its wheelie bar function in mind. Have the lower link points high enough to reduce the height that the front tires will lift or add extra hitch points so when skidding heavier trees the skidding device is not more then a foot off the ground as max lift. This will prevent a back roll.

 

[Chilly807]

Try to keep the length of the skidding plate/whatever short. The closer the log butt is to the ball ends, the less leverage it has to flip the tractor if the worst happens. My winch has the plate/blade within 6 inches of the ends of the lift arms

 

[s219]

I have a simple skid plate for my 3-pt hitch. Lifting the butt of the log off the ground will avoid 95% of the safety problems. But for large logs, I still run a second short chain from the log to the actual drawbar down low. That way, if the log hangs up for some reason, it cannot cause the tractor to pop a wheelie and flip. So the 3-pt skid plate is primarily doing the lifting, and the drawbar is primarily doing the pulling.