3-point hitch pins, one facing in, one out??

[Bluelick]

Hi all,
Still fairly new to tractors and enjoying getting to know my "new" 1984 B7100 HST-E. This forum has been a great help.

Now that mowing season is over, I am beginning to learn about three-point implements. I recently got a used carryall, the kind they sell at Tractor Supply.

I raised the deck and hooked it in place with a short piece of chain so I can raise and lower the hitch arms. However, the parts that raise and lower the deck which sit on top of the three-point arms are still in place and do somewhat restrict the movement of the arms side to side. So, when I went to hook up the carryall, I decided it would be easier if I turned the pins around facing inward instead of outward, as I have seen suggested on other posts here.

Now, I was in a bit of a hurry to get to hauling firewood, so when one pin came loose pretty easily and the other did not, I decided that I would try it with one pin pointing in and one out. I found that with this set up I can pivot the carryall into position to bring the outward facing pin into position on one arm. Then I hook the top link, and finally pull the other arm into place on the inward facing pin. I've used it this way for about a week.

Here's my question: is there anything wrong with doing it this way? Will I be creating some problem down the road? It doesn't seem to bind or look cock-eyed. Anyone else done this?

One other question: What do you use for lube on the balls at the ends of the lift arms? Oil, grease, PB Blaster? Seems oil or grease could attract and hold dirt and crud, and grease wouldn't work in there very well.

Thanks!

 

[gwdixon]

The position of the pins won't make any difference in wear on the tractor or implement. At least not for the life of both. This is a "whatever works" situation.

Most people don't use anything on the balls. You are right that a lube will pick up dirt and grit so will act like valve grinding compound and wear the balls even faster. They don't have to move much anyway so there is no reason to goop them up.

New balls get a shot of Fluid Film on my tractors to loosen them up. Fluid Film lasts an incredibly long time and prevents corrosion so if you must lube that is my choice. FF will keep rust off of plow shares over the winter so has to be good in the long term.

 

[mozark]

Might want to put some spacers on the pins to keep it from sliding side to side, definitely easier to put the carryall on, but otherwise no problem that I can see. Ferguson used to specify no lube on the ball sockets for the reasons you mentioned, some sort of dry lubricant like silicon, teflon, graphite, or moly (dri-slide) that didn't attract dirt, I would think, is probably ok.

 

[beenthere]

..................Here's my question: is there anything wrong with doing it this way? Will I be creating some problem down the road? It doesn't seem to bind or look cock-eyed. Anyone else done this?

One other question: What do you use for lube on the balls at the ends of the lift arms? Oil, grease, PB Blaster? Seems oil or grease could attract and hold dirt and crud, and grease wouldn't work in there very well.

Thanks!

#1 No problem created down the road. Whatever is convenient for you.

# 2 I don't use anything on the balls, but if I would then PB blaster or very light WD-40. They will stay good with use.

 

[radioman]

It really doesn't matter how you orient your pins. some of my implements are out, one is simply a sliding bracket and the other face in. If it make you happy with one in and out, then go for it- its not a safety nor part wear issue.

 

[Bluelick]

Thanks for the responses! I was thinking maybe WD-40 for the balls, since it pretty much goes away when it dries and because of that is pretty useless as a lubricant, but in this case might be just the ticket. I don't think the three-point has been used for a long time, so once they get moving maybe they'll be good to go.

 

[Johndeere3720]

Yeah, lubricating the balls on the lower lift arms will get dirt and debris in there and wear them down. This is with heavy oiled or greased conditions. A light coating of oil or grease wont be to bad, My tractor was used in conditions with a lot of sub soiling and mowing. The lift arms on my Yanmar have quite a bit of vertical play from dirt and debris wearing them down. I noticed this when i installed my telescopic lower links since they were "snug" in the arms and the old ones wobbled. Sounds like you are having a hard time getting the one pin off. I have had to remove Some tough pins and I used a large pipe wrench with a cheater bar and WD40. Then you just wrench on it until it comes loose. Secure the pin itself with a cresent wrench which will grip nicely where the hole is drulled for the lynch pin. Have the cresent against the implement to lock the pin up and wrench on the nut. It sounds complicated but it works.

 

[Bluelick]

I'm going to be looking in my favorite junk stores for a deep 1 1/4 inch socket, then put the impact wrench on it! It's a fairly new pin, just on there good and it was too far from the shop before to fool with it much, which is part of why I went ahead and mounted the carryall, so I could get it over to the shop if nothing else. But then after I mounted it, I figured why not use it like that. The mother of invention is sometimes just being too far from the shop!

On the ancient pond scoop I bought the pins are so totally rusted that I think I'll be taking them off with a grinder. It's either that or I need to learn how to use this oxy/acetylene torch I got from my dad. Hm, that might be interesting!

 

[20 20]

I am just curious to all those that say no lube for the ball sockets. If the ball isn't moving all that much how is lubing it going to cause wear? I would rather have a light coat of oil on them to help keep rust away then just let them go. I would say the pins {especially out by the bucket} on my excavator get a lot more dirt sand etc... then the ball on a 3pt would and I constantly grease them. I do realize oils can attract dirt but which would be better rust{stuck} or dirty?

 

[Gordon Gould]

I am just curious to all those that say no lube for the ball sockets. If the ball isn't moving all that much how is lubing it going to cause wear? I would rather have a light coat of oil on them to help keep rust away then just let them go. I would say the pins {especially out by the bucket} on my excavator get a lot more dirt sand etc... then the ball on a 3pt would and I constantly grease them. I do realize oils can attract dirt but which would be better rust{stuck} or dirty?

I have the exact same question. No movement, no wear. I keep a light coating of grease on mine. Maybe I shouldn't


On my sicklebar mower there are two pins on the left side. One facing in, the other out. The right side is facing out. The spacing is wide. You can use the inward facing pin if your lift arms can't spread that far.

gg

 

[sandman2234]

If you have to lube, go greaseless.
David from jax

 

[gwdixon]

I have the exact same question. No movement, no wear. I keep a light coating of grease on mine. Maybe I shouldn't

Well, of course the ball does move a tiny bit. Just enough to grind away. However, in the long run it probably doesn't matter a bit.

The pin also moves in the ball when hooked up but folks rarely grease the pins. Some pins show considerable wear so the ball hole must be worn somewhat as well.

I have seen balls that barely stay in the sockets on an old 8N but it had been used hard. Lube may or may not have made a difference. There likely aren't any long term studies on the subject.

Do whatever makes you feel comfortable. We will all probably be long gone before the balls need replacing (no double meaning implied).

As far as the pins on a backhoe or excavator go, the new grease replaces the old and drives out the contaminated grease. I always grease until fresh comes out.

If the same were done with the hitch balls it would not even be being discussed. If you often change the grease or whatever lube is being used then wear would be at a minimum. When going into storage or over winter it might be a good idea to coat them with something.

Metal-on-metal wear would seem to be more severe in any case so everyone will have to decide on their own.

Hopefully, this doesn't escalate into a "What Kind of Oil?" type of thread. Just do what makes you happy. There are bigger things to be concerned about.

 

[beenthere]

I am just curious to all those that say no lube for the ball sockets. If the ball isn't moving all that much how is lubing it going to cause wear? I would rather have a light coat of oil on them to help keep rust away then just let them go. I would say the pins {especially out by the bucket} on my excavator get a lot more dirt sand etc... then the ball on a 3pt would and I constantly grease them. I do realize oils can attract dirt but which would be better rust{stuck} or dirty?

I don't put anything on them because I don't want them greasy when handling or when rubbing next to them with my clothes. Seems like the grease gets all over then.

But no objections to anyone greasing theirs up

 

[Gordon Gould]

Well, of course the ball does move a tiny bit. Just enough to grind away. However, in the long run it probably doesn't matter a bit.

The pin also moves in the ball when hooked up but folks rarely grease the pins. Some pins show considerable wear so the ball hole must be worn somewhat as well.

I have seen balls that barely stay in the sockets on an old 8N but it had been used hard. Lube may or may not have made a difference. There likely aren't any long term studies on the subject.

Do whatever makes you feel comfortable. We will all probably be long gone before the balls need replacing (no double meaning implied).

As far as the pins on a backhoe or excavator go, the new grease replaces the old and drives out the contaminated grease. I always grease until fresh comes out.

If the same were done with the hitch balls it would not even be being discussed. If you often change the grease or whatever lube is being used then wear would be at a minimum. When going into storage or over winter it might be a good idea to coat them with something.

Metal-on-metal wear would seem to be more severe in any case so everyone will have to decide on their own.

Hopefully, this doesn't escalate into a "What Kind of Oil?" type of thread. Just do what makes you happy. There are bigger things to be concerned about.

Thanks for the practical input

gg

 

[SandburRanch]

The way I see it there is a coating of dust/dirt on the balls if we don't lube. There is a coating of dust/dirt on the balls if we lube. So what it boils down to is; do we want dry dirt or lubricated dirt. As mentioned, your call.

 

[20 20]

I don't put anything on them because I don't want them greasy when handling or when rubbing next to them with my clothes. Seems like the grease gets all over then.

But no objections to anyone greasing theirs up

:thumbsup: that I can understand.

Gwdixon, I was just wondering, I would say a light oiling of the balls would NOT wear them as some may seem to think. I have been around farms and machinery all my life. I have came across machines that the balls were so rusted we'd have to use a hammer{beat the ____ out of them} to get them to move. I would imagine if at the very least a coating of oil{or grease} would have probably prevented this. If the 3pt is being used a lot it probably wouldn't matter??? Oh and hey what type of oil do you use :laughing:

 

[gwdixon]

:thumbsup: that I can understand.

Gwdixon, I was just wondering, I would say a light oiling of the balls would NOT wear them as some may seem to think. I have been around farms and machinery all my life. I have came across machines that the balls were so rusted we'd have to use a hammer{beat the ____ out of them} to get them to move. I would imagine if at the very least a coating of oil{or grease} would have probably prevented this. If the 3pt is being used a lot it probably wouldn't matter??? Oh and hey what type of oil do you use :laughing:

Cute:thumbsup:. I may have mentioned it on this thread but Fluid Film is a lanolin based wax-type lube that seems to work well and prevents rust long term. It doesn't seem to pick up as much grit as grease once it dries.

Fluid Film? | Corrosion Preventative, Lubricant and Rust Inhibitor

 

[20 20]

I still need o get some of the fluid film, when I'm out I never see it so I don't think about it. When I do remember I'm no where near any place that has it.

 

[Redneck in training]

Might want to put some spacers on the pins to keep it from sliding side to side, definitely easier to put the carryall on, but otherwise no problem that I can see. Ferguson used to specify no lube on the ball sockets for the reasons you mentioned, some sort of dry lubricant like silicon, teflon, graphite, or moly (dri-slide) that didn't attract dirt, I would think, is probably ok.

I would skip on graphite. Graphite is hygroscopic and will promote rust even when dry. My choice would be molly.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Thanks for the responses! I was thinking maybe WD-40 for the balls, since it pretty much goes away when it dries and because of that is pretty useless as a lubricant, but in this case might be just the ticket. I don't think the three-point has been used for a long time, so once they get moving maybe they'll be good to go.

spray graphite aerosol. Drys in place, hangs on for awhile, easily renewable, doesnt attract dust.
larry