3 Point pick up problem ?

Outbackfarm · Apr 13, 2005

Hi everyone, I have a quick question, I looked over the past postings and did not see any thing that resembles this situation so here it goes:

I started my Jinma 284 this morning and it fired right up, picked the FEL up and it instantly responded and worked normally. I then went to raise the three point with a small box blade up off of the ground, and the box would not lift. Opened the throttle and tried to lift again still nothing happened, held the three point lever in “Raise” position for about 10 -15 seconds and finally very slowly the box blade came up off of the ground and went all the way into the fully raised position, lowered it back to the ground and tried to raise it again and did much better, by the third or forth time, it was responding pretty close to what I remember as normal. I loaded the three points down with 300 lbs of additional weight and it picked up with no problems. The temperature outside was about 40* and the hydraulic oil in the tractor is the same oil that it was shipped with. (The tractor has only 4 hrs on it) . I am going to switch out the hydro fluid in the next couple of weeks in case it is related to the old fluid.

This brings up yet another issue I noted with some surprise that at least one of the regular contributors to this page uses Automatic Transmission Fluid in the hydraulics’ in their Jinma ! Is this an acceptable fluid ? Advantages / Disadvantages ?.

Thanks everyone, The support offered on this web site was one of the main reasons that I bought a Jinma, It is a great tractor and I am very happy with it. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

Scott

greg_g · Apr 13, 2005

( at least one of the regular contributors to this page uses Automatic Transmission Fluid in the hydraulics’ in their Jinma ! Is this an acceptable fluid ? Advantages / Disadvantages ? )

That's a new one on me. Sure you weren't reading about UTF? That's not the same as ATF. The problem you describe is reported at one time or another by many new Jinma owner who haven't drained out the crud that Jinma puts in the hydraulic system before shipping.

Once you flush that thick stuff out of there, I personally see no advantage to using ATF over a designated hydraulic fluid. AW32 is most often recommended for cool/cold climates. Besides that, it's generally easier - and maybe cheaper - to find AW32 in 5 gallon buckets, than it is to bring quality ATF home by the case.

//greg//

MarkNHow · Apr 13, 2005

Scott

I have a Jinma 284 and the 3 point won't lift for 4 or 5 minutes when it's around 10 to 20 degrees. Don't know what kind of loader you have but I have a Koyker 160 and it will work but slow until the tractor warms up. I have AW32 in mine. Other suggestions have been 303 universal tractor fluid. Don't know about automatic transmission fluid.

I changed fluids at 25 hours do to dealer suggestion but if I would've known the quality of fluids in the tractor that would have been the first thing I would have done.

Mark H

greg_g · Apr 13, 2005

( I have a Jinma 284 and the 3 point won't lift for 4 or 5 minutes when it's around 10 to 20 degrees.... I have AW32 in mine. Other suggestions have been 303 universal tractor fluid. )

Mark, it sounds like you didn't flush the OE fluid (or clean the suction filter) before pouring in your AW32. There should be no "warm up" time for AW32 at those temps. You're likely circulating hydraulic soup made out of AW32 and the original Asian crud.

303 has about a 20W equivalent, as opposed to 10W for the AW32. The difference in thickness will become apparent in cool/cold weather.

//greg//

Outbackfarm · Apr 13, 2005

This is the old post were I read about the ATF fluid in the hydro

"Which is the preferable Hydraulic Fluid for a Jinma 224? I am going to change out the fluids next week and would like some thoughts.

Hey John,

I'm sure that you will have different opinions on this Subject, but I will tell you what I am doing so far. Keep in mind that I am down on the Gulf Coast and that it is much warmer down here than up in the Cold Country. This year, about the coldest that it got was about +20F, and not even sure if it got that cold, and that was only for a few nights.

I get all of my fluids at WalMart. I use Shell 15w/40 Rotella T for the Engine, and Shell 30w Non Detergent for the Fuel Pump, SuperTech Hydralic/Transmission Fluid for the Hydralics/Power Steering, 85w/140 for the Transmission and the Front Drive, but I may drop down to the 80w/90 for the Transmission and Front Drive, if I start getting a lot of foaming. I read on the Super Tech container and it said on both the 80w90 and 85w140, that it fights foaming, and resists corosion on Copper and Bronze, so I am thinking that it is compatible with the metals inside the Transaxle, Transmission and the Front Drive. I am giving the 85w140 a try, because it is thicker and may help to prevent leaks in the future.

Whichever oil that you choose to use, Be sure that oil is flowing into the Creeper Gear Housing.

Have a nice day,
Joe

The More I Learn, The Less I know "

SPIKER · Apr 13, 2005

the hyd system on the JINMAs are prettty tough and not all that finiacky: universal 303 , UTF, AW32 or ATF will all work fine. the atf is pretty easy to come by but so is the 303 or UTF the aw32 is a bit harder (none at wally world.) they do carry 5 gall of the UTF and 303 type oils though. I use 303 type in mine ever since abotu 5 hrs run time. it takes a min or two in REALLY cold temps (run mine in under -20 temps already and she worked but took 2~3 min of 1K rpm running to warm up a bit and circulate fluid. to raise a 450lb box blade.)

normally she is less than 30 sec for cold temps and right away in anything above 45 degrees no lag in raise time. it is the hard fluid flow getting going.

be sure to change the fluid flush out the hyd resiviour and clean the flimsy suction filter under the seat. 3 bolt flange after removing the big line... be carefull it is easly damaged. rinse it out and while the top is off spray some fuel in there with the drain open to flush out any fallen debris...

MakrM

greg_g · Apr 13, 2005

( SuperTech Hydralic/Transmission Fluid for the Hydralics/Power Steering, )
As I suspected, that's not ATF. It's WallyWorld UTF (universal tractor fluid). I'm pretty sure the label will list it as a 303 equivalent.

//greg//

greg_g · Apr 13, 2005

( aw32 is a bit harder )

It's very easy to find. Besides area POL distributors, every auto parts store and every farm supply store I've ever been in sells AW32 - or will get it for you quickly. 5 gal buckets are most common, although I've seen it in 2.5g jugs too.

//greg//

Outbackfarm · Apr 13, 2005

Thanks everyone, I going camping this weekend but next week the old fluid is out of here !!!

You guys are the best, Thank you for taking the time to answer my questions.

I will let everyone know if this solves the situation. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

greg_g · Apr 14, 2005

( next week the old fluid is out of here !!!)

Don't forget to clean/inspect/replace the suction filter as required.
Wouldn't hurt to have a spare in hand before you go to all the work of taking the old one out.
They've been known to collapse beyond practical repair.

//greg//