3 Point pick up problem ?

Soundguy · Apr 14, 2005

( It's very easy to find. Besides area POL distributors, every auto parts store and every farm supply store I've ever been in sells AW32 )

I think it is a temperature thing.. but down here in mid florida.. aw46 is our common 'plain' hyd oil. TSC, napa, etc carries it... though are glad to order aw32 if you ask for it..

Soundguy

JINMA224XR · Apr 14, 2005

This brings up yet another issue I noted with some surprise that at least one of the regular contributors to this page uses Automatic Transmission Fluid in the hydraulics’ in their Jinma ! Is this an acceptable fluid ? 

 SuperTech Hydralic/Transmission Fluid for the Hydralics/Power Steering, 

Hey Scott,

No, Scott, I don't use ATF, in my little 224's Hydralic's. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

I should have said "OIL", and not "Fluid". Sorry Scott, I didn't mean to mislead you or anybody else. It never crossed my mind that someone would misinterpret to mean "ATF".

I'll try to find that post and make the correction.

Not all WalMart stores carry the Tractor Oils. But the Super Tech is available in either Straight Tractor Hydralic Oil or Hydralic/Transmission Oil. I use the Hydralic/Transmission Oil, because it is supposed to have better lubricating properties.

So far, my hydralics are working well. But I did have to tighten the intake filter plate, because the bolts were not very tight.

Have a nice day,
Joe

MarkNHow · Apr 14, 2005

Greg

At the time I got my tractor I didn't read about flushing. I changed fluid and cleaned the filter. Not to hijack the thread but why does the FEL respond immediately while the 3 point takes more time?

Mark H

greg_g · Apr 14, 2005

( why does the FEL respond immediately while the 3 point takes more time? )
Stronger cylinders for one, they're rated at - what - 2200 lbs ? - as opposed to your 725# TPH..... might also have something to do with the way the FEL is plumbed in. Perhaps it's using cold fluid already in the lines, that isn't inhibited by having to be cold-strained through the suction filter.

//greg//

Outbackfarm · Apr 18, 2005

Thanks for all of the good information! Also I did misread the whole ATF use as hydraulic oil, but I bet I was not the only one who did. OK I am now armed with all of the information I need to do the job, except the part about flushing the system. I searched the entire Chinese tractor forum looking for information on flushing the old hydraulic oil out of the tractor and I found a post that tells me to remove the strainer and the drain plug and use diesel fuel to washout the hydraulic reservoir. Before filling with the new oil. No problem, but what about the oil in the lines and the hydraulic cylinders? Do I need to clean these out as well? Or will the small amount in these items (With the FEL lowered all the way and the tilt all the way back) not matter when it is mixed with the much larger amount in the reservoir? I am sorry that I am asking so many questions but I cannot be the only person reading these pages that are at least thinking about these things. I am very careful to look for answers in previous posts and did not see a complete answer to this.

Thanks again everyone

Scott
/forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

greg_g · Apr 18, 2005

( what about the oil in the lines and the hydraulic cylinders? Do I need to clean these out as well? )

The procedure is there, I've posted it several times. I will admit though, that the search engine on this site leaves a bit to be desired.

I strongly advise flushing the entire system; to include pumps/hoses/cylinders. Personal choice, but I prefer kerosene to diesel fuel. You simply drain the old crud, top up to the dipstick mark with kerosene, close up the system, start the tractor. Drive a few figure 8s to clean the steering, raise and lower the TPH and FEL respectively. Stop engine/drain, being careful to have a LARGE container. More comes out that you will have put in. Watch closely what comes out. I use a strainer to help determine if a 2nd flush is required, plus that way you can re-use the original kerosene.

Residual kerosene is volatile enough to evaporate over time, so I don't bother with this next step. Since the specific gravity of kerosene (~0.82) is different than AW32 (~0.86), there is a way to get more kerosene back out. This is another argument to use kerosene rather than diesel (SG ~0.84); it separates better. After your final fill let the TPH and FEL down so that all hydraulics are retracted. Give the kerosene and AW32 time to separate, the kerosene will go to the bottom of the reservior.

If you go the evaporation route, just remember to top up the AW32 level periodically.

//greg//