3 point Splitter on L28OO Hydraulic connection question

[GlennaR]

Thanks J.J.

A little clearer now, THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO EXPLAIN THIS TO ME since I had not a clue about all this.

VARY glad I now know the need to either re connect the BH normally or just short together both supply n ret. BH lines ends before starting tractor. DID NOT REALIZE THIS, again thanks for the heads up.....................

The more I learn about this, subject the more I realize perhaps better in the long run that I just buy a splitter with a gas engine, even thou in many ways this is NOT what I want to do.

If I ever forget to short the supply n return lines together n run the tractor, what type of damage does this do to the Kub?

If serious damage is caused,,,, this one fact seems to strongly be the deciding factor to just buy a self powered splitter to avoid this problem all together.

Glennnnnnnn

 

[J_J]

When you deadhead a hyd line, the pressure builds to the maximum as the pump can pump. The PRV relief valve is there to relieve any over pressure. As long as the pressure is above the PRV setting, the relief valve will operate and relieve the pressure. If the relief can dump enough GPM's, not much will happen. If the pressure should build up to some of the parts pressures, hose valve, cyl, pump, etc, something may burst. If you do not know, you will soon learn to recognize the sound of the relief valve going off.

That is why, if using QD's in the pressure line, one should be careful. Also, sometimes the QD's disconnect all by themselves, and things go bad.

Running an implement off a valve is the safest thing to do.

 

[hill]

If the BH connectors are like those for my B7800 BH there will be a male and female QC connection for pressure (male) and return (female). The two are connected on the tractor if the BH is not installed or used (in your case). Those hoses come from the power beyond circuit of my loader valve but the L2800 may have a second transmission connector block for it. Some models have more than one hydraulic output location from the trans/pump - some don't.

Either way, to use the BH hydraulics for something other than the backhoe connections you'll need a male and female QC of matching type connected to the ends of the normally looped circuit at the breakapart point. The new hoses do not need to follow the male/female configuration at the new device ends.

This will work no matter if your model uses the loader or a seperate block. You just disconnect from the BH as though you were unmounting it and instead of hooking the ends of the BH hoses together you hook into them and route your new hoses to your new valve. It's a pretty nice convenience since Kubota has provided the circuit - hoses, routing brackets and all right to the rear of the tractor where you need them.

 

[GlennaR]

It is now Feb 2o15

Thanks everyone for helping me by further educating me on all this.

I took all your comments n suggestions up in my noggin n let it stew for a time. Again thanks you all for the "food for thought".

I first realized why should I use an cheap motor to fuel but expensive to buy and rebuild in-place of a a cheap to buy single cyl mostly thruway/scrap power source. Also I would also be adding lots of hours on my Kub's hour meter thus costing more because of a lower triad in value on the L28oo Kub one day.

Any Way I studied what others have done both in person n watching lots of uTube videos and came up with an total approach that is bed for me.

1. I designed an built a 12 by 24 pole barn/lean to wood shed sorting 3 years of wood of average burn about 30 feet away from the corner of my home where I have the stove facing du south.

2. I divide the shed up into 7 areas basically. Six of the areas have 4' wide by 8+' long by 6.5+' high wood drying n storage cribs. Each crib is stand alone built off strong scrounged pallets placed on gravel floor. All cribs have ends/up rights of 2X4 that are screwed into the pallets frame than up to where normally would be the floor joists or ceiling rafters normally go. Each crib has a min of a two foot isle way to walk in and or promote air flow thru.

2. The 7th area was reserved to processing the wood. I either drag a long log in with the Kub and place it on a sizing ramp with a 12vDC jeep bumper Chinese hoist. I attach the winch line as near to the far end as I can and haul it in and up the ramp to waist height where I trim it into 16" lengths. From this point on I NEVER LET THE 16" LOG down, thus eliminating bending over thousands of times to pick it off the ground AGAIN.

The sizing ramp's end (see foto FS06) was placed in such a location were I either cut a few 16" logs and immediately take them to be stacked or with just a simple twist of the my waist I simply place them over to the splitter work table if they beed to be quartered n split them later or when the table is full.

I chose a splitter I could easily add a strong angle iron work table to the side of. I place the logs from the re sizing ramp there for splitting or if the tree falls in a manor where I can cut into rounds that are off the ground near waist height I sometimes trim them in the woods into rounds than roll them into the loader bucket of the Kub n use the Kub to lift deposit them up on the side of the angel iron table I had fabled up and added to the side of my splitter. Again the thoughts are not work off the ground with my 65 year old back bent over and once lifted they stay up until placed into one of the 6 storage cribs to dry for at least the next 2 years.

The seventh area is in the NE corner under the roof where I drag in the logs to (foto WS07) attached to the hoe bucket. Or haul them in with the Kub's loader bucked when I had the chance buck the rounds in the woods and they need to be splits and I immediately stack them in one of the 6 cribs a few steps away.

Again, one thing I do not do is get carried away with one specific segment of gathering wood. I noticed starting n finish each load of fire wood keeps me from using the ground for a temporary storage area, thus not needing to bend over n pick it up AGAIN........

Any Way, I haven't seen others working like this in vids on uTube but this works for me n my back just fine and I have one my wood drying for at least 24 months before I burn it.