3 pt and pto attachment issues

   / 3 pt and pto attachment issues #11  
Hi Bob,

I don't think there's anything inherently wrong with cutting the shaft down. That's the first thing I'd do. Cheap, easy, and bulletproof. My kinda fix.

Word of caution: if all this is "stock", it seems a little fishy that it doesn't work right "out of the box." Before you cut anything, you may want to connect it the hard way and simulate the geometry of the tractor/mower when the shaft will be at its longest. This will involve setting the top link adjustment where you want it, then driving the tractor's rear wheels up on some wheel ramps, etc. to simulate the tractor cresting a sharp hill. At this point, the shaft will be at its greatest extension. Mark it will a Sharpie, disconnect it, take it apart, and look at how much shaft you have left. If it doesn't look like you have enough shaft, I'd look at other potential issues before cutting it. Having a shaft come apart under power can't be good.

I'd consider the iMatch etc. if you had a wealth of attachments but the ROI doesn't seem like it's there if you're just dealing with a stubborn PTO shaft. I'm constantly changing 3PH attachments and, with practice, it's not a big deal. Just my .02. Other guys here like the easy change systems. They must have more money than me. ;-) Or maybe I have more time.

Once you've got the basic geometry sorted, the PTO hook up will go much easier if you keep everything clean and well-greased. I usually clean and brush my PTO connections with solvent a few times a year and then put a light coat of grease on everything. Pay particular attention to the spring-loaded pin on the female connection. I also buy WD-40 by the gallon and spray it all over everything in sight (including the bottom of the mower, which helps keep grass cuttings from accumulating there).

No worries on the stabilizer pins. A little slop there won't really hurt you, especially with a mower. Your draft links will move laterally a lot futher than the slop in those pins anyway. Just be sure to keep the pins tight, as they have a tendency to loosen.

Have fun!
 
   / 3 pt and pto attachment issues #12  
Hi Bob,

I don't think there's anything inherently wrong with cutting the shaft down. That's the first thing I'd do. Cheap, easy, and bulletproof. My kinda fix.

Word of caution: if all this is "stock", it seems a little fishy that it doesn't work right "out of the box." Before you cut anything, you may want to connect it the hard way and simulate the geometry of the tractor/mower when the shaft will be at its longest. This will involve setting the top link adjustment where you want it, then driving the tractor's rear wheels up on some wheel ramps, etc. to simulate the tractor cresting a sharp hill. At this point, the shaft will be at its greatest extension. Mark it will a Sharpie, disconnect it, take it apart, and look at how much shaft you have left. If it doesn't look like you have enough shaft, I'd look at other potential issues before cutting it. Having a shaft come apart under power can't be good.

All good advice, for sure. You really need to make sure you don't cut the shaft too short - you can get major vibration (or worse) issues if you do. Then it's serious money to replace the shaft. As I said before, if you do go the iMatch hitch route, DO NOT cut the shaft until you try it first - the iMatch will set the implement back about 3-4 inches. Your existing shaft may work fine in that case. Good luck and let us kow how you resolve this.
 
   / 3 pt and pto attachment issues
  • Thread Starter
#13  
Wow! I'm truly impressed with all the responses. And relieved to learn I'm not putting my investment at risk with a little slop in the draft links and by attaching the pto first. I'm a little wary of cutting the driveline---entirely too irreversible for me at this stage. Sounds like my best bet (if I don't vastly improve my switching time) is a quick hitch. Previous posts suggest the iMatch is rather pricey and requires an adapter for each implement as well. I'm going to take a closer look at Pat's quick changer. Anyway, I feel much better about all this. Thanks a bunch!

Bob
 
   / 3 pt and pto attachment issues #14  
Wow! I'm truly impressed with all the responses. And relieved to learn I'm not putting my investment at risk with a little slop in the draft links and by attaching the pto first. I'm a little wary of cutting the driveline---entirely too irreversible for me at this stage. Sounds like my best bet (if I don't vastly improve my switching time) is a quick hitch. Previous posts suggest the iMatch is rather pricey and requires an adapter for each implement as well. I'm going to take a closer look at Pat's quick changer. Anyway, I feel much better about all this. Thanks a bunch!

Bob

Be aware that hooking up the PTO shaft (if its too long) and raising your tractors 3PH can damage your PTO by shoving the PTO shaft into the PTO of the tractor. the shaft extends and contracts as you raise and lower the equipment and as you make adjustments to the top link. Here is a good tutorial on
CUTTING YOUR PTO SHAFT TO THE PROPER SIZE.
 
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   / 3 pt and pto attachment issues #15  
Wow! I'm truly impressed with all the responses. And relieved to learn I'm not putting my investment at risk with a little slop in the draft links and by attaching the pto first. I'm a little wary of cutting the driveline---entirely too irreversible for me at this stage. Sounds like my best bet (if I don't vastly improve my switching time) is a quick hitch. Previous posts suggest the iMatch is rather pricey and requires an adapter for each implement as well. I'm going to take a closer look at Pat's quick changer. Anyway, I feel much better about all this. Thanks a bunch!

Bob

The adapters needed for each piece can be made very cheaply, it is a large bushing that goes from cat I to cat III. Buy some tractor supply special bushings in the I to II for draft links and some II to III for the same. Should not run more than about $4.00/ set. Other than that implements need to meet a true catagory I measurement to work with a quick hitch. I am pretty sure John Deere says it will not work but I believe there is still enough room for the Auto - Hitch set up as well. Although spendy it is a real backsaver as you do not have to leave the seat to hook up to the cutter and the d-line. I know a few people who have this setup for the last couple of years and seems to hold up well. Keeping in mind it is today only for Deere's cutters and tillers.
 
   / 3 pt and pto attachment issues #16  
I'm a little wary of cutting the driveline---entirely too irreversible for me at this stage.

Smart move...until you determine it's too long, it's better not to trim down a component that will cost you $150-$200 to replace. That isn't to say you won't have to, once you figure out the problem, but now is not the time to make irreversible decisions.
 
   / 3 pt and pto attachment issues #17  
I also have trouble getting the PTO shaft onto the tractor PTO. I know you need to do it to disconnect, but do you need to pull back the spring loaded collar to get it on--I waste a bit of energy on this and if not necessary, that would help?

Also I am not sure I can easily rotate the PTO shaft on the tractor to align the gears. I don't have a front PTO, just a rear, and the knob is always push in--PTO disengaged (and the tractor off) when I try.
 
   / 3 pt and pto attachment issues #18  
I always connect the shaft first. With tractor OFF, brake set, and PTO in Mid position. Much easier than trying to work in the limited space left after connecting the 3-point.
 
   / 3 pt and pto attachment issues #19  
Some folks posted warnings about damage to the tractor if the PTO shaft is too long.
Well, it can and it has...
But most times there is no good reason to raise any driven implement to the maximum height of the 3ph. Once that implement is clear of the ground, that's really all you need to go (use common sense here..."clear of the ground" means high enough to travel the area you're on without knocking the h*ll out of the implement).
Any higher then the minimum required does nothing more then raise the tractor's center of gravity...which is not what most of us want to do.
Just wanted to clarify a few earlier posts, including one of mine.
 

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