3 pt hitch

[DannyD]

Is there an easy way to get these attachments hooked up. I find that I can get one side and the top link, but the second side is a royal pain in the patute.

Also has anyone used a middle plow for ditch digging and if so how did that work for you


Thanks in advance /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[ronjhall]

DannyD

Welcome to TBN. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

There is a lot of information available on TBN that will answer your questions by using the search feature. I'll get you started by list some links.
<font color="blue"> Is there an easy way to get these attachments hooked up. I find that I can get one side and the top link, but the second side is a royal pain in the patute. </font>
Dollies

Pat's easy change.

Quick Hitch

<font color="blue"> Also has anyone used a middle plow for ditch digging and if so how did that work for you
</font>

Middle Buster

<font color="blue"> hey where did you get the teeth for your bucket. </font>
Tooth Bar

Thanks for filling out your profile. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

The above links should fill a slow Sunday morning. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[DannyD]

Thanks so much for the leads on things. I had actually thought of the dollys for the tiller, but I am going the route of not being one to build much and buy the ones at my local tractor supply store. Mine will sit on plywood for the time being as my concrete floor in the barn is still gravel...........My only concern is the extra height that the dollies will cause. My b2200 does not allow for much extra height with its smaller wheels /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

 

[Soundguy]

Keep in mind that on most 3pt hitch setups.. one lift link arm is adjustable. Hook up your toplink.. and the non adjustable arm.. then adjust your other arm to hookup.. then with the lift up a bit.. re-adjust the arm to level it.

Soundguy

 

[Henro]

I guess I am self-taught and am probably doing it wrong...

But what I always do is put the two lower arms on first, then the top link last. If I need to coax the implement a little with a 2x4, that is what I do. The top link, since it is adjustable, is easy to put on. I get it in range by lifting the 3PH and then adjust it a couple turns so the pin slides through, if I need to.

I never thought to try it the way Soundguy said, but see how that could work too. Just never had the need.

The only exception is my 3PH backhoe, which is easier to hook up by connecting the top point first. But that is because it attaches differently than a normal implement...

 

[SteveM]

Dont remember how the check chains work on a BX, but on a small tractor I find it easier to disconnect the check chain so that one of the arms can swing all over the place- makes it easier to get that 'last arm' connected. Then when you raise the implement - if on level ground, it will swing to center and you reconnect the check chain. Trick is to use the hydraulics to help you whenever possible. With practice you can limit the amount of cursing. Although I will admit there is no elegant way to attach a 3pt tiller- they always seem to rock around when you dont want them to. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

 

[Darren]

I'd follow Soundguy's advice and use a spud bar or the equivalent to persuade things to line up. If it's almost there, the lift pin just doesn't want to cooperate, I use a plastic sledge hammer to coax things a bit. Some attachments are easier than others. My sickle bar is the worst of the worst. Nothing really wants to line up on that sucker after hooking up the first lift arm.. It takes both the bar and the sledge.

 

[Mat]

IMHO, I agree with Henro, I was always taught to put the left bottom link (non adjustable) on first, then adjust the right hand link up and down with the adjuster till it lines up and goes on, then finally put the top link on, if necessary you can play with the lift control to tilt the implement forward and backward until the top link fits, or by adjusting it to length
/forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

 

[Mat]

Forgot to add!! taking it off is the reverse of putting it on /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[DannyD]

Thanks guys, at least I am not alone in the cant get the thing on there crowd.

I have decided and the wife has given her royal ok to the Pats easy change things. I have found nothing bad about them and if they work like those that have them say.........problem solved. I will be ordering them soon. so that I have them when I am on vacation.

it is good to know I am in great company on this delima though

 

[keeney]

Some 3-point connection tricks:

1. For a small tractor and a heavy attachment, sometimes it is easier to manually move the tractor instead of the attachment (the tractor has wheels). Leave it in neutral/not parking braked when you get off - DO THIS ONLY ON A LEVEL SURFACE!

2. For an attachment that is not sitting level, connect the lower side first. Then use the 3-pt control to lift that low side, making the attachment level with the tractor arms and lining up the other side.

3. In general, getting one side hooked on will allow the tractor to drag, push, and pull the attachment a bit to get it lined up with the other side.

4. Always remember to loosten the anti-sway links before cussing at why you can't get the arm to push on over the pin. Double check this before and after attempting use of hammer.

5. When dropping an attachment, consider how hard it will be to re-attach. Avoid un-level or lumpy areas, etc.

- Rick

 

[AndyMA]

I almost always hook the lower links first. Usually the fixed one first. To get the other one to line up a 6' crow bar is a big help. It'll move almost any implement. Once the tow lower links are hitched, the upper one is a snap. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif I have also used a hydraulic car jack to lift up an implement to hookup. Many of the smaller (under 400#) implements can be dragged by hand.

Andy

 

[PineRidge]

First I pull the pins from the sway bars so they can move freely. Then I always attach both lower arms to the implement. On Class III New Holland Boomer's both lower arms telescope so hook up is quite easy. I attach the top link last so that I may adjust it as necessary for the implement to tow/lift plumb.

 

[DannyD]

Hello,

I talked with my Kubota dealer and he has what he called "the claw" lower link adapters for the 3 point hitch. Anyone know about this product and how it works compared to the other products out there? Price is about where it should be.

 

[normde2001]

The secret to an easy hookup, if there is one, is when you drop off the implement, shim/block it up so that it is on the same plane/level with the tractor. That way when you hook up, both sides will be even. Of course getting the "Pats" system will solve most of your problem. Be sure and get the "separator bar", I don't think you can live without that.

 

[narcnh]

Normde's makes a really good point. When my Herd spreader was delivered I had to figure out how to get it on the tractor. It was sitting on the drive, and it is built with the the lower hitch points basically flush with the bottom. No way I could lower the 3PH low enough to grab it, and I couldn't lift it to the 3PH. Had the bottom of an old table that we threw out of the attic, when I had it converted into living space. It survived the fall from three stories up, so I knew it was solid. Nailed some leftover v-pine planks to make a platform and hoisted the spreader onto it with the FEL and a couple of ratcheting tie downs. It sits at just the right height for backing up with the 3PH.

For all my future attachements, I'm going to check ahead of time to make sure my 3PH can reach them, or else I'll fashion some kind of stand, even if just cinderblocks.

 

[PineRidge]

A trick that I learned real quick with my 3-point weight bar was to drop it on an inexpensive appliance dolly. The solid wood ones with 4 wheels that Harbor Freight sells for 14 bucks. It can be easily moved in the pole barn and it won't give you a hernia in the process of hooking it back up. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif