3 pt hitch

   / 3 pt hitch #11  
Some 3-point connection tricks:

1. For a small tractor and a heavy attachment, sometimes it is easier to manually move the tractor instead of the attachment (the tractor has wheels). Leave it in neutral/not parking braked when you get off - DO THIS ONLY ON A LEVEL SURFACE!

2. For an attachment that is not sitting level, connect the lower side first. Then use the 3-pt control to lift that low side, making the attachment level with the tractor arms and lining up the other side.

3. In general, getting one side hooked on will allow the tractor to drag, push, and pull the attachment a bit to get it lined up with the other side.

4. Always remember to loosten the anti-sway links before cussing at why you can't get the arm to push on over the pin. Double check this before and after attempting use of hammer.

5. When dropping an attachment, consider how hard it will be to re-attach. Avoid un-level or lumpy areas, etc.

- Rick
 
   / 3 pt hitch #12  
I almost always hook the lower links first. Usually the fixed one first. To get the other one to line up a 6' crow bar is a big help. It'll move almost any implement. Once the tow lower links are hitched, the upper one is a snap. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif I have also used a hydraulic car jack to lift up an implement to hookup. Many of the smaller (under 400#) implements can be dragged by hand.

Andy
 
   / 3 pt hitch #13  
First I pull the pins from the sway bars so they can move freely. Then I always attach both lower arms to the implement. On Class III New Holland Boomer's both lower arms telescope so hook up is quite easy. I attach the top link last so that I may adjust it as necessary for the implement to tow/lift plumb.
 
   / 3 pt hitch
  • Thread Starter
#14  
Hello,

I talked with my Kubota dealer and he has what he called "the claw" lower link adapters for the 3 point hitch. Anyone know about this product and how it works compared to the other products out there? Price is about where it should be.
 
   / 3 pt hitch #15  
The secret to an easy hookup, if there is one, is when you drop off the implement, shim/block it up so that it is on the same plane/level with the tractor. That way when you hook up, both sides will be even. Of course getting the "Pats" system will solve most of your problem. Be sure and get the "separator bar", I don't think you can live without that.
 
   / 3 pt hitch #16  
Normde's makes a really good point. When my Herd spreader was delivered I had to figure out how to get it on the tractor. It was sitting on the drive, and it is built with the the lower hitch points basically flush with the bottom. No way I could lower the 3PH low enough to grab it, and I couldn't lift it to the 3PH. Had the bottom of an old table that we threw out of the attic, when I had it converted into living space. It survived the fall from three stories up, so I knew it was solid. Nailed some leftover v-pine planks to make a platform and hoisted the spreader onto it with the FEL and a couple of ratcheting tie downs. It sits at just the right height for backing up with the 3PH.

For all my future attachements, I'm going to check ahead of time to make sure my 3PH can reach them, or else I'll fashion some kind of stand, even if just cinderblocks.
 
   / 3 pt hitch #17  
A trick that I learned real quick with my 3-point weight bar was to drop it on an inexpensive appliance dolly. The solid wood ones with 4 wheels that Harbor Freight sells for 14 bucks. It can be easily moved in the pole barn and it won't give you a hernia in the process of hooking it back up. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
 

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