3 Pt Hookup Help

[Anonymous Poster]

I'm new to tractors. I have a used one with York rake. I need to attach it but it is quite heavy to left myself and none of the three points goes low enough to hook up at ground level. It seems I am missing something. Do I call a friend to help me lift it? So many thanks.

<a href=mailto:chrisp11@Mindspring.com>Chris P</a>

 

[W5FL]

You have a typical Chicken and Egg problem.

If when you un-hooked it, you would have put the front on a couple of cinder blocks, it would be the correct height to hook up.

If you have a jack or front end loader (or a friend), put a couple of cement blocks under the front of the rake and you should be set. Other wise some weight training is in order. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[MChalkley]

You pretty much have to sit the part that fits on the 3-point hitch on a cinder-block, block of wood, jack stand or something, so you can hook up to it without having to lift it.

If you find yourself swapping implements a lot in the future, you might want to investigate the Freedom Hitch, http://www.freedomhitch.com.

Mark

 

[MChalkley]

Well, Wen, there weren't any replies when I started mine. You beat me to it...

Mark

 

[Rch]

I'd guess that a Freedom Hitch needs longer PTO shafts. How significant is this, i.e. if I added a Freedom Hitch to my current implements would I have problems with the shaft seperating if, my tiller for example, was in a depression and the tractor front end was low?

RCH

 

[gordon]

Everyone knows the secret to hook up of a three point----if it doesn't line up you have to cuss it and it will go right on. Now too low is another matter and they have already addressed it./w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
I would love to have the freedom hitch but one thing stops me --my wallet--./w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

Gordon

 

[MChalkley]

RCH, I've got the Freedom Hitch on a rotary cutter and a tiller, but I didn't need to do anything to the PTO shaft on either. Most PTO shafts are made to reach fine on much larger tractors, so they'll easily reach the additional 5" inches or so.

Mark

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Been There, Done That...

If you have an implement you forgot to block up I sometimes have to hook a chunk of pull-strap (don't like to scratch my paint) on the lower lift arms and around something on the implement and use the 3 pt to lift it up.

Of course if you just bought a BX2200 in the first place you could lift the front of the tractor up with your arms while your wife hooked the pins. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

Actually I remember doing something similar on my Ford once, it has teeth on the front bucket and on hard ground you can push the front end way up by pointing them downward, this enabled me to hookup once when my block fell over.

Some implements have a simple stand like you see commonly on a trailer, I've even seen them that come completely off with a pin. When I find a welder who needs some firewood I'm going to put one on each of my implements so I don't have to go find a block. I think these are optional on some implements, like the manufacturer is really doing something SPECIAL! DUH, you pay $$$$ for an implement and they can't have their welder do this as a routine to make sure everyone loved their implements? Big companies always amaze me at their inability to sometimes make simple changes, in this case a simple add on.

If my dealer had brand A and brand B and Brand B would have had a simple stand...

 

[TomG]

Good comments. Blocks, and I'd add a 5' or 6' pry bar, make the task easier. At best swapping 3ph implements is a small pain. Today I finally have to take off pallet forks in favour of the box scrapper. Pallet forks and post hole augers must be the worst.

Too bad I didn't finish the fork work before needing the scrapper for several days. Gawdg, who'd of guessed I'd get 15 yards of gravel and 15 yards of top soil the same day as ordered, and followed by two days of rain. Now I've got to deal with the dirt and put the forks back on as well. Black fly are the only reason I didn't finish with the forks. Guess I've got to say that black fly make swapping 3ph implements even worse to get back on subject. A bug shirt can be considered an aid to 3ph mounting, but it's getting grease covered.

I, myself, don't have a problem of too low. My lift will drag the ground, maybe it's the turf tires, but I still block the implements. There's a thread on CTB on this subject which contains some more useful comments.

 

[JimBinMI]

del,

My Woods rear blade has a stand like you're talking about. Just a bar with a round base and is adjustable to three levels. I use it most of the time, though my blade is only a 5 footer and I can lift it O.K., keeps it off the floor.

JimBinMI

We boys and our toys!

 

[MChalkley]

Del - I agree with you; it's pretty stupid to have an implement that won't sit up by itself and not put a stand on it by default. You'd think the things would pay for themselves just in increased sales - a blade or rake looks pretty stupid with the hitch end sitting on the ground.

Northern has a swing-down stand made for this sort of thing that works pretty well. You can either u-bolt it or weld it to the implement. At least then you don't have to carry around a separate jack stand all the time. A friend of mine gave me several of them not long ago and I put one on my 8' Series 35 blade (if that thing falls down, it takes the front end loader to get it back up) - now I just have to find the time to put the rest of them on.

Mark

 

[MarkV]

Mark, I know we have talked about the Freedom Hitch a fair amount but I don't remember if you have to remove yours from the tractor when you hook up the backhoe? The only reason I don't get one is on my B21 I am sure you would have to remove the hitch for the backhoe. Is the tractor part of the Freedom Hitch hard to remove?

MarkV

 

[roysallis]

Maybe you could find a way to attach a swing-away trailer jack to your rake. It will not cost much and will also make it easier to attach the rake to the 3pth.

 

[W5FL]

Economic analysis:

Jack: $12.95
2 Cinder Blocks $1.60

Like the jack better, but I already have the 2 cinder blocks where the rake stores and would have to move them. /w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif /w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

 

[MChalkley]

MarkV, it's a 30-second job to remove the tractor section of the Freedom Hitch. It's just the 2 side link dad-burned razzin'-frazzin' !@#$ click-clips and a top link pin held in place by a hair-pin clip. In other words the same stuff you use to connect or disconnect a regular implement, only the tractor section is light enough to handle.

Yes, I do have to remove it when I put the backhoe on, but, as I say, it's a 30 second procedure. And with the Bradco, I don't have to remove the side links or any other part of the 3-point hitch, just swing the side links all the way toward center so they're out of the way of the backhoe subframe.

Mark

 

[MarkV]

Mark, thanks for the info. I will take another look at the Freedom Hitch. I know what you mean about the clips. I have invented some new words getting them on and off. I sure do like how close my hoe sits to the tractor but would sure like to be able to leave the top and side links on. Have to remove all to attach my hoe. Always thought your hydraulic top and side link set up would be the perfect way to go. Been afraid it would be to much to remove when putting on the hoe.

Question for you. The B21 hydraulic pump output is 13.1 gpm, is that plenty for a hydraulic link system? Sure wish someone made a "bolt it on" kit.

 

[MChalkley]

MarkV - The Freedom Hitch is a little expensive, but it's definitely worth it, assuming your tractor is worth anything close to what you paid for it.

Actually, 2 gpm is plenty for 3-point hitch cylinders. My L4310HST only as 8 gpm or so of flow and I put flow restrictors on my cylinders so they won't move too fast for small adjustments.

Mark