3-PT Persuasion

[N80]

My farmer friend's old Case tractors (I'm guessing early 60's) have integral 'quick attachs' on the ends of the lower lift arms. You don't even have to get off the tractor. Back up, lift them into place and they snap around the hitch pins. I can't remember the configuration, but I remember thinking how ingenious it was. Next time I'm down there I will take a picture.

 

[Woody_NH]

Having just had a NH TC40DA for one week now, I'm still figuring out the finer points of implement hookup. When your off alignment slightly and can't muscle lift points into position, what tools do you use?? How much force can you use to persuade the links into place??

You have received many good ideas so far.

Contrary to any advice I have ever seen, I hook-up the top link first! It has an adjustable length with good leverage on the screw adjustment. I then use the screw adjustment to move the implement back or forward to connect the 1st lower arm. Then the same for the 2nd lower arm. Makes for easy hook-up.

I always read the manual but then experiment to see if there is another way.

 

[teg]

"...curl the bucket..." I like that idea!

I get the tractor pretty close and set the parking brake about half way. I'll get off and try to attach the lowest arm first. If I have to move the tractor forward or back to line up better, I'll nudge the pedal from the ground. If I move the tractor too much it will shut off (safe? of course not!!) I know this is wrong but for "fine tuning" and getting it just right, it works very well for me and I know that I'm taking a chance.

I do not like the two person method... I never know if my wife is Pi$$ at me or not.

 

[Soundguy]

A good 8' spruce 2x4 makes a great non-marring lever to move rather large implements an inch or so..

i can 'nudge' my 2500# 10' 3pt mower using an 8' lever..

Soundguy

 

[JerryG]

I personally can't imagine anyone using a regular hammer of any size on a piece of equipment. If you really think that you have to beat it with something, use a dead blow hammer. That way it will drive the arms on without damaging them. It takes a while for some, but try to learn how to install your three point equipment. If done correctly, there is no need to beat on it.

 

[redlevel]

I personally can't imagine anyone using a regular hammer of any size on a piece of equipment.

Some of the larger tractors I have used have had "flats" on the sides of the 3pt hitch lower arms that I assumed were for that very purpose. I usually use a piece of wood, usually a piece of 2by4, to cushion the blow if I really have to whack it. The larger hammer you use, the lighter the blow can be. If you use a 20 or 30 lb hammer, you usually just have to sort of tap the arms to get them moving, where if you use a small, say a 2lb, hammer, you have to knock the fire out of it to get it started.

 

[ustobefarmer]

I have the telescoping lift arm and still was a bear to hook up equipment. I went to my local Rural King Farm supply and bought a Cat. 1 quick hitch. Best investment I made. I change attachments many time in the courst of a day doing lawn seeding. Even in ground that is not level you just back up raise hitch small amout then you need to hook up the top link and you are ready to go.

 

[pat32rf]

Teg- Its a lot easier if the seat switch has been broken off and taped up....Just make sure you use low range for those tiny adjustments
Actually I mostly have to beat on things to get them OFF the 3pth arms, I can normally push the arms on with my boot.

 

[Soundguy]

Lastly.. as the experience level of the operator goes up.. the difficulty and time needed to swap an implement goes down.

Soundguy

 

[Carld]

I use a long pry bar to move the implement around. once I get one of the lower arms on a pin it's easier to manage.

 

[BillyP]

I like the telescoping draft links myself but all my 3pt implements are parked on a concrete floor.

On dirt it would be just as easy as long as you pay attention to how you park it. Block it up so the next time the implement will be level to the tractor.

As Soundguy said, practice makes it a whole lot easier.

 

[JoeL4330]

All my ground is uneven, which makes for some difficulties, but I have telescoping links, which are the cat's meow, and I free the draft arms. As others have said, attach lower, non-adjustable arm first. I have Top & Tilt, now, so the second arm adjustment is now hydraulic, but before, the manual adjustment worked well. The top link is usually easy to attach because of its large adjustment range, and on occasion I have raised the implement attached by just one draft arm and the top link, which allows me to move the implement more easily than it if is on the ground. Where small forward and backward adjustments are required, I use the FEL, not the go pedal. If you are on a slope, which I always am, and the go pedal works, you don't have the brake on firmly and that seems risky to me, since I am sometimes between the implement and the tractor. Instead, I plant the tractor with the the bucket and forget the brake. It's solidly anchored and I can move it fore and aft in nice small increments with the joy stick ...curl and uncurl.