3 pt sprayer

   / 3 pt sprayer #11  
Chucko,
The TSC catalog shows the recommended way to plumb the system including the recirc. line. Northern tool sells some tanks if decide not to use the 55 gallon drum.
 
   / 3 pt sprayer #13  
No matter where it is mounted, the operator will inhale some overspray. I find on my spray rig (30 gal. tank on tow trailer, boom on front) that I don't get spray very often unless I am spraying with a slight breeze. Then, I check it with a mask and/or just spray with the wind at my back.

I like the front boom, as it allows me to watch where the spray is going (I side-dress often around my tree plantation with round-up or with simazine to keep weeds in check). I can steer the front boom via the front wheels. Seldom do I get a whif of spray. If I do, I make a change.
 
   / 3 pt sprayer
  • Thread Starter
#14  
Can't get much more than you would with s hose end sprayer


I did not see anything on the TSC site about pumbing the sprayer. got the url?

I don't really "think" I need a return line do I? The pump I have is out of an old camper and will turn off when it reaches so much psi....(I am nut sure of the exact number)
 
   / 3 pt sprayer #15  
Huh? How will you mix the spray? Without a return line, you are going to be spraying a 90% solution on 10% of your crop, and 10% of your solution on 90% of the area....

--->Paul
 
   / 3 pt sprayer
  • Thread Starter
#16  
so your saying if I dump milathon(sp?) in the tank then add the water it will not stay suspended in the water and settle out as I move around the yard?
 
   / 3 pt sprayer #17  
The return line isn't so much for mixing as it is for consistent pressure control. You put a back pressure relief valve on the return line and set it at the pressure you require for the spray heads. All of the excess pump capacity (gpm) returns back to the tank.

This arrangement is pretty standard for pumping applications. Otherwise, if you shut the flow off downstream of the pump, (like when releasing the trigger on a hand wand) the pump is deadheaded and overpressures causing pump cavitation and blown seals/diaphragms. If the pump has an integral pressure relief, it's typically for pump protection only and should not be used as a control device for maintaining line pressure.

They have a diagram in the printed 2003 TSC catalog, I did not see one on the web site.
 
   / 3 pt sprayer #18  
I'm not sure I followed the 10% 90% logic. I think chucko is right in that the pump will shut off, but the cavitation and over pressure is probably the real problem. Also, the pump would want to cycle on and off without the return line.

I'm ignorant on this issue, please enlighten me.

Thanks.

Joe
 
   / 3 pt sprayer #19  
I'm a farmer. I have a state licence to spray RUP's, altho I stick to the 'Caution' chemicals I still wanted the education. Spray my beans & corn every year.

For the common tank mixes on these crop chemicals, I dump in one type for broadleaves, one for grasses, an oil to make the chemical stick to the leaves, and some granular fertilizer to help it all work. (Many brand-named all-in-one weed killers are actually just a premix of the ingrediants I use - at more cost.)

This solution MUST be agitated to mix it all together & to keep it suspended in the water.

The labels on all the chemicals I use tell me to agitate for 15 minutes (or more) before going out & spraying - and I need to follow the label or I can get fined.

Perhaps your chemicals are different; I don't know and I'm sorry I presumed to know. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif However, I sure would want an agitation line from the pump to the tank to properly keep my solution in suspension. Agitating the tank is very important to keep the solution properly suspended with most weed killers.

This line is typically the pressure regulator overflow, which is needed to keep a sprayer at the proper pressure of (for my chemicals) around 20-30#. Some of the RUP insect sprays require 60# pressure. If you spray my types of weed sprays at 60#, it causes very tiny micro-droplets that drift for hours on the wind & kill the neighbors crops or garden. If I were to spray the insect killers at 20# of pressure, it would not properly create the droplet cloud & would not kill the insects. In either case I'm wasting my time & money to not get the job done, & possibly cause problems for my neighbors. You can't regulate that pressure very well by stopping & starting the pump - you need a regulator to handle the shock loads & legally apply spray according to the label. So accurate pressure regulation is very important to properly apply the chemicals & you need a dedicated regulator to do so.

The pump itself gets subject to very high shock loads, and needs a bypass of some type. At full throttle & on agitae-only my pto pump runs 60#, I've seen it hit 90# once when the overflow line plugged. Then again when I am spraying at fast idle it has a hard time getting over 20#. This is _with_ a regulator, I can't imagine what I would do to the pump without a regulator. Anyhow, for the safety of the pump, it needs a bypass regulator - as stated, blown seals & hoses & the like.

As I see it, there are 3 very important reasons to be using a pressure regulator. They are available in any farm supply store, I thought around $20 but I could be wrong, and sure will save wear & tear on the pump & hoses, as well as help you to properly apply the chemical so it does the work you want without wasting it or harming others or the environment.

Note - I am not familiar with small electric sprayer pumps, perhaps they are built with a 'closed center' design & are built to supply the proper pressure & deadhead themselves? I do not know. I would still like an agitation line even so just to keep the solution in suspention.

Different strokes for different folks, but for me this is what is required by law, & the only way I would feel comfortable using chemical sprays.

--->Paul
 
   / 3 pt sprayer #20  
Paul:

Thanks for your detailed explanation. I ALWAYS learn something everytime I log on to this site.

Joe
 

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