3032e/3038e questions

[Ray_Fort_White]

Seems to me that my 3038E burns about a gallon an hour at 2500 rpm while mowing @ about 2 acres an hour. It burns less when doing loader work.

 

[123rday]

I also wondered about the convenience of filling the gas tank. Maybe using 2 gallon diesel containers might prevent overfill.

How long can you go on a load of fuel with the 6 gallon tank?
Tim

A two gallon can would be easier unless you have a fuel tank set up with a pump on you property. But I use like a 10-12" funnel, step up on the platform with the 5 gallon can, and pour while keeping an eye on the fuel gauge next to it. When it gets to F I stop (just because one time I thought I could "over fill" a little. Yep it over filled alright. LOL)

I would agree about a gallon per hour with the rpms above 2000. Which is about in line with my Ford 861 when I use that.

 

[TGF]

Have been checking out these models and can't figure out a couple of options on them... hoping someone can help:

1. I believe they're identical in size, including tire dimensions. Correct?
2. Can you get power beyond? i.e. to run a log splitter?
3. The brochure states it can take a front plow blade - but I can't find an option for the frame-mount variety. Is the only option the quick-attach Frontier model? If so, should I be more confident in the 305 loader torsional rigidity compared with the 300x/300cx arms? I've heard that loader-mounted blades can bend the arms. But perhaps the 305 permanent mount is stronger?
4. Can you add an optional FEL loader joystick that's more like the other 3000-series tractors? I know you can do that on a Kubota B2630/3030 model... I have a torn rotator cuff in my right shoulder that makes reaching out uncomfortable - but, reaching down for the loader joystick just fine.
5. Can you upgrade the seat like the 2000-series?
6. How does the diff-lock work with the brake pedal?
7. Finally... are the height dimensions the same for ag/industrial/turf tires? I ask because I have a 7' garage door and want ag's, but the wheel size seems much larger in pictures compared with the turf and industrial size wheels... the brochure doesn't help. Only says 83".

Thanks!

I own a 3038E and have quite a few hours on, many of them clearing a drive in the dead of winter and some recent logging work, with some bush hogging as well using a Frontier RC2060.

To the op's questions.

1. I am pretty sure they are, the 3038e is just a turbo'd 3032e.
2. I am not sure what you mean but if your question is can you get rear hydraulics the answer is yes. I have 2 rear hydro valves (dealer installed option) just behind my right elbow, I got them for the snow blower so I could rotate the chute without getting off the tractor. It worked fine with a rented log spliter, I just put it past low idle about 1200 rpm and it was pretty effortless.
3. I am not sure how the 305 compares to the 300, however in all the brouchures even Kubota's it has more lift capacity than its competitors, its seems very rigid, and even though its only rated at 1186 pounds, I have had it toss my tractor around like it was plastic bag in the wind. Just this weekend I was working on a stump and we thought we had got all the roots I went to tear it out and before I knew it I was standing the back end of the tractor was in the air and only a single front wheel was on the ground. The 305 has alot of power for the size of the tractor. I like Ray was using my rotary cutter as ballast at the time of the incident as we were clearing brush as we get the blownovers out.
4. I am unfamiler with other FEL joysticks the 305 is a 5 way. Up-Down Bucket Tilt Up-Down, and Float.
5. No clue on the seat, I didn't even know you could get different seats, I do know you can not get a Cab for it, best I have seen is a sun shade.
6. As other have said its really easy. I used it all winter long and while logging this weekend. Just push the brake down a bit and all four wheels dig in. You don't need to hold it either it will stay engaged till it detects it is not needed.
7. It may fit, I have a 7ft outbuilding as well and It goes in with about an inch to spare, better not have any mud or snow packed on your tires.

As many other have said, there is a lot of power in this little tractor it can easily spin the wheels even on dry dirt. I think its a good deal I opted for my 3038e because it was about 5 grand cheeper than the comparible Kubota with more horse, and Deere offers 3 year 0% on them. Hope this info helps.

 

[radioeng]

I have had my 3038 since October 09. So far it has served me well for most of my chores, plenty of power but due to it's light weight it has some trouble with plowing, it was also unable to pull an empty 40' cargo container, the front wheels would head for the sky every time I hit the go pedal. I also own a Jinma 354 which due to it's clunky communist era construction, has plenty of weight to easily pull the container, or deep plow, but does not have the ovweall power of the Deere.

On another more disturbing note, I went out this morning to use the 3038 and noticed a puddle of gear lube on the ground around the left front tire. Upon checking the front differential I found no gear lube, Yikes. When I arrived at my local dealer, the service manager told me "he had seen this before" Anyone else with leaky front ends on this model? mine only has 50 hours!

 

[dk8019]

The manual suggests the diff lock will automatically disengage when the tires no longer are experiencing slip.

This is slightly off topic from the original poster's questions, but the engine tuning of the 3032E and 3038E shows some rather interesting ramifications. In the case of the 3032E as compared to the 3320's version of the engine, limiting operating rpm to 2500 rpm and raising the compression ratio to 19 increases operating torque slightly (from 61.6 to around 62.7 ft-lbs), moves the torque peak up to 1680 rpm from 1560, and most dramatically increases the peak torque by 10% (from 73.9 to 80.2 ft-lbs) and the torque rise from 20% in 1.64L version in the 3320, to 28% in its 3032E guise.

This is interesting to me given the light weight of the 3032E and 3038E. For one thing, both tractors would seem very likely to spin the wheels given the improved torque numbers, and unless one really needs 30 PTO hp, the spinning might be a real issue with the 3038E.

It is also interesting that having a higher torque peak and torque rise may help performance under load, but if the torque peak comes at a higher rpm value, it may be theoretically easier to stall the tractor under an extreme load that pushes the engine below the higher rpm torque peak. Makes me wonder about these two for loader operations. For 3 pt activies like bushhogging, they might be great little machines, perhaps even a bit better than the 3320/3520 versions of the engines.

I'd be very interested in what users of these are reporting as far as performance.
Tim

Tim,

I've only been using my 3032E for a few weeks, box blading and cutting with a 90" RFM, but so far I haven't bee able to even bog it down cutting weeds and tall grass the height of the hood.

In terms of box blading, if I get the 6' box completely full of our hard red Virginia clay and rock with the 6 scarcifiers all the way down she becomes traction limited in 4wd.

 

[msmud]

dk8019,
What kind of tires / weights are you running with your 3032? What tire pressures are giving you the slip in 4wd with boxblading?

I am having a devil of a time buying a 3032 with R1s--my dealer can't find them in the Southeast and says I'll have to order the tractor if I want AG tires. Since I have a heck of a lot of bushhogging to do right now, I have accepted his offer on the 3038E with R4s he has on his lot, with an RC2072. I'm just waiting on the front end weights, bracket and hood guard to arrive to take delivery. Strangely, he won't tell me when to come over and pay him, but here in Mississippi nobody's in a hurry.
Tim

 

[dk8019]

I'm running R4s, but the tires are't loaded, and there's no weights in the front outside of the the FEL, so I'm surely on the light end. the 6' blade is pretty heavy, I would estimate around 500 lbs or more, but once I fill the blade up completed with our clay around here, and catch a good rock or something under ground I'm going no where.

Tire pressures on the front are right at 35 PSI, rear pressure at 20 PSI.

 

[msmud]

dk8019,
Best I can tell by the equipment setup you have (weight) and the Goodyear and Firestone Ag tables, your rear pressures should be around 9 - 10 psi and the front around 16 - 18. This is why you are having a lot of wheelslip; your tires are greatly overinflated.

The minimum listed pressures for this tire in this tractor per the Deere manual is 12 rear, 20 front but the load bearing capacity of the R4s is greatly in excess of the weight of the tractor, particularly for speeds 5 mph or slower.

If you're worried about rim/bead slip, you could lower to the minimum listed in the manual, test the machine with work, and the lower by 1 psi each time you use the tractor,chalking a rim/sidewall line to check for any slip.
Tim

 

[dk8019]

Tim,

Thanks for the advice, I was wondering where they should be, I had left them like the dealer delier them, but it's a bit of a harsh ride sometimes! I'll lower the rears down a bit and see how it goes.

 

[needsmoretractor]

Have you ever had any issue with the rear differential staying locked in? I grew up on larger geared tractors where the brake is just a brake so maybe it is me. My reason for asking is that I was doing a little clean up brush hogging this morning in 2wd and when I went to take a hard turn on the road i felt the tractor start to bind and then pop. It happened quick and I backed up and verified it was not in 4wd, which it was not. I also went over and checked to ensure the diff still works, which is it does as does the 4wd. Never had this issue with the manual diff, so i am simply curious. Thanks