To measure AMPS you also typically need to move the leads on the multimeter to different spots on the meter. Be VERY careful. When you have the meter rigged for measuring AMPS it is basically a short circuit so DO NOT try measuring VOLTS again until you move the leads back to the proper position for voltage measurement.
3032e battery drain
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To measure AMPS you also typically need to move the leads on the multimeter to different spots on the meter. Be VERY careful. When you have the meter rigged for measuring AMPS it is basically a short circuit so DO NOT try measuring VOLTS again until you move the leads back to the proper position for voltage measurement.
I did as directed but ran into a snag. My battery was freshly charged and when fully connected, easily started the tractor. When I disconnected the negative battery cable and connected my jumper cable to the negative post on the battery and bare metal in the tractor frame, I just got a strong solenoid click when I turned the key. I tried three locations with my Jumper cable, a bare bolt on the frame, a bare bolt on the bucket arm and the steering link on the front axle. All the same result. I know the jumper works, I use it regularly. I'm a little perplexed on this. I may need to purchase a new jumper just to make sure.
I stopped by the John Deere dealer in Mt. Vernon yesterday and discussed my problem with the service manager and a mechanic. They suggested that I remove the facia behind the steering wheel and inspect the wire loom there to look for rodent damage. I removed the wheel and the facia. All the wires are bundled in plastic loom covers, no signs of rodents, no poop, no nest materials, no gnawing. I removed each plug for the dash instruments, light switch, turn signals and ignition and checked the battery with my meter for drain. With each wire plug removed one at a time I still has a drain, with all of the wire plugs remove on one time, I still had a drain.
I stopped by the John Deere dealer in Mt. Vernon yesterday and discussed my problem with the service manager and a mechanic. They suggested that I remove the facia behind the steering wheel and inspect the wire loom there to look for rodent damage. I removed the wheel and the facia. All the wires are bundled in plastic loom covers, no signs of rodents, no poop, no nest materials, no gnawing. I removed each plug for the dash instruments, light switch, turn signals and ignition and checked the battery with my meter for drain. With each wire plug removed one at a time I still has a drain, with all of the wire plugs remove on one time, I still had a drain.
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What will you do later?
When you say: ..."I removed each plug for the dash instruments, light switch, turn signals and ignition and checked the battery with my meter for drain. With each wire plug removed one at a time I still has a drain, with all of the wire plugs remove on one time, I still had a drain."
What exactly does the red text mean as to what you did to check the battery? Were you checking for amps between your negative battery post and the factory ground cable? Were your meter probes placed in the amps read holes and the meter switch set to amps? What reading were you getting to indicate drain on the battery?
The clicking you described when using your negative jumper cable and clamps in place of the factory negative battery cable is somewhat surprising. It could be a couple of things, but could just as easily be your jumper cable is not making a good enough connection where you were attaching it, as your factory cable is when bolted to the chassis/frame. Let's put that aside and search elsewhere for the moment.
Have you closely inspected the starter? You should verify it is not loose where it bolts into the flywheel housing and that the stud where the positive battery cable bolts to the starter's solenoid is tight and completely clean. If it is corroded or dirt encrusted, disconnect the battery ground and then remove the nut where the positive battery cable connects to the solenoid and clean the stud, nut and especially the positive battery cable's end ring connector, until it is shiny bright metal. While there also do all the connections to the wires at the solenoids other stud, and the small wire tab where the single wire comes from the ignition to the solenoid. Retest the amp draw at the negative post between it and the disconnected ground cable going to the chassis. See if there is still an amp draw with the ignition /engine off and report back results.
We'll get it- you're doing the right sequence- it's just a matter of further tests to find the drain and kill it dead!
I borrowed a new set of jumper cables from the roadside assistance kit in my wife's car (a better set than the ones I tried yesterday). I connected the black wire to the negative post on the battery and the tractor frame. The battery ground cable was disconnected. With the engine running, my voltmeter read 14.2 volts at the battery. With the lights on it read 13.2 at the battery.
When this problem started I inspected the battery cables pretty completely and just checked again. I cleaned the terminal clamps with a terminal brush and also the posts. I found no corrosion.
When this problem started I inspected the battery cables pretty completely and just checked again. I cleaned the terminal clamps with a terminal brush and also the posts. I found no corrosion.
That's 4 Milliamps, which is probably 1/10 of what a car draws to keep computers etc running. That should not affect the battery.
I reference to the red text, I used the volt meter setting to measure the drain between the disconnected negative post on the battery and the negative cable clamp.
I removed the starter, cleaned the pos. battery cable ring connector and the other wires on the post. All are shiny metal. The solenoid is built into the starter. The white wire plug was also cleaned. The started was reinstalled, all bolts tight.
The amp draw between negative post and negative cable clamp with the key off was zero.
This seems like good news except the starter wire connections were not very dirty or corroded.
I left the battery connected and will check again in the morning.
I removed the starter, cleaned the pos. battery cable ring connector and the other wires on the post. All are shiny metal. The solenoid is built into the starter. The white wire plug was also cleaned. The started was reinstalled, all bolts tight.
The amp draw between negative post and negative cable clamp with the key off was zero.
This seems like good news except the starter wire connections were not very dirty or corroded.
I left the battery connected and will check again in the morning.
jaxs
Elite Member
The average car draw's 50MA while sitting in storage. 4MA would never run your battery down. Taking you at your word on where and how you tested,you have a bad battery. I know you said battery was replaced but with only 4MA drain there is no other reason other than bad battery why tractor starts good after recharging battery but is dead when you return later. Either have new battery load tested or disconnect one of the cables,charge battery then let it sit until you return. When you return,reconnect cable and try starting tractor. If battery is weak,the battery is defective. If tractor start's normal,the results reported from last test are incorrect or your meter is wacko.
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That's pretty close to the readings you had with the factory ground cable. Numbers look good.:thumbsup:
OK, see post below.
Good catch on the Milliamps, and agreed, it's not a significant draw.
You'll see if there is a drop when you test it again, same scale, key off. Good work, we're moving forward, slowly but surely....
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I missed Jax's post by about three minutes. Again, he is right about the draw down values are way too low to drain your battery, especially one that is new, AND fully functional.
If you have access to another VOM, use it instead of your current one, and retest tomorrow, the draw down at the negative battery side, as you did today.
Your old battery was dead. Your 'new' battery keeps dying, and so far we all have not found anything that indicates why.
Verifying that the new battery is not defective makes sense. So, do what Jaxs outlined, and if indications point to it might be defective then have it load tested an hour or more after charging it fully.
If it fails a load test get another battery. What brand battery did you purchase, and what are it's specs, CCA, etc.
There is also a possibility your alternator has a flaky/intermittent diode, or set of diodes in your bridge rectifier, but let's consider this after the battery condition is verified.
If you have access to another VOM, use it instead of your current one, and retest tomorrow, the draw down at the negative battery side, as you did today.
Your old battery was dead. Your 'new' battery keeps dying, and so far we all have not found anything that indicates why.
Verifying that the new battery is not defective makes sense. So, do what Jaxs outlined, and if indications point to it might be defective then have it load tested an hour or more after charging it fully.
If it fails a load test get another battery. What brand battery did you purchase, and what are it's specs, CCA, etc.
There is also a possibility your alternator has a flaky/intermittent diode, or set of diodes in your bridge rectifier, but let's consider this after the battery condition is verified.
I left the battery fully attached last night. The temp reached 28 degrees. I just went out to start the tractor (32 deg. outside) and it started right up. It has not kept a charge overnight since the problem began. I hauled in the empty trash cans.
I have guarded optimism that we have solved the problem. We are leaving tomorrow for a 2 week thaw in Cabo San Lucas. I will leave the battery attached and test and report on my return.
In the mean time I watn to thank all of you for your help and expertise and patience.
Jim
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Cool! Maybe you got lucky and solved a greater drain that has now been reduced to acceptable limits. You might want to try to run the tractor for more than 10 minutes at a time, especially during winter to help keep the battery charged. Essentially you want to keep it charged to 80% or greater at all times. If you can't do that look at a Battery Tender charging unit to keep it topped up. When I'm gone from home I disconnect the negative cable from the battery post, AFTER having fully charged the battery with the tender. I'm gone to the sun/water for 3 months/yr. and it certainly helps keep the batteries from draining down over that time.
Let us know what state of charge you find BEFORE trying to start your tractor when you return. Have fun- don't burn off your skin!
Let us know what state of charge you find BEFORE trying to start your tractor when you return. Have fun- don't burn off your skin!
Cool! Maybe you got lucky and solved a greater drain that has now been reduced to acceptable limits. You might want to try to run the tractor for more than 10 minutes at a time, especially during winter to help keep the battery charged. Essentially you want to keep it charged to 80% or greater at all times. If you can't do that look at a Battery Tender charging unit to keep it topped up. When I'm gone from home I disconnect the negative cable from the battery post, AFTER having fully charged the battery with the tender. I'm gone to the sun/water for 3 months/yr. and it certainly helps keep the batteries from draining down over that time.
Let us know what state of charge you find BEFORE trying to start your tractor when you return. Have fun- don't burn off your skin!
Good point on running for more that 10 minutes. I considered unhooking the negative but I want to really put it to a test. I will let you know when I return before I start it.
I am a shade seeker but love the warmth. I hate to burn.
Thanks again...
It could be you had a loose connection and you fixed it, or possibly you still have a corroded cable that's hidden inside the insulation. Sometime those cables look like new but the cable inside is corroded and cracked, conducting occasionally when moved.
jaxs
Elite Member
That's great news. If the problem come's back,I suggest posting back to this thread so that everyone has the back story. Hopfully there is no farther problem but if so it point's to one of the wires unplugged while testing having insulation rubbed through and shorting to ground. The movement/change in wire position could have made the difference.
PILOON
Super Star Member
I will interrupt to thank JDLJr for the follow up as just so many simply disappear without conclusion.
Bravo!
It encourages us to offer assistance.
Bravo!
It encourages us to offer assistance.
