3032e

[Cocre]

Things that would bend a metal hood or fender have simply bounced off my JD 3320 with no damage. Perhaps one day a thing that will simply bend a metal hood or fender will break my Deere, but so far not. Been four tough years on the Deere with only a battery failure and a pin hole leak on a back hoe hydraulic line. Oh, and I did have to re-calibrate the throttle position sensor, which I did myself. It has never been back to the dealer.

 

[Rob-D]

Things that would bend a metal hood or fender have simply bounced off my JD 3320 with no damage. Perhaps one day a thing that will simply bend a metal hood or fender will break my Deere, but so far not. Been four tough years on the Deere with only a battery failure and a pin hole leak on a back hoe hydraulic line. Oh, and I did have to re-calibrate the throttle position sensor, which I did myself. It has never been back to the dealer.

That's interesting, I had a pin hole in my 485 BH line. Somehow it got pinched but when I replaced the line I didn't see any place that would cause that. I am more careful when loading the hoe on.

Rob

 

[DKCDKC]

I like the JD 3038e... Same as the 3032e except for the engine. I like the hood and fenders. Haven't been able to nick or crack them despite some heavy duty efforts. I also like the ergonomics. I'm 300 plus, and no problems. When I try to pull a box blade loaded with damp dirt, I might wish I'd gone to a slightly heavier tractor, but it would have been a JD too. Overall I'm delighted... Just hit 50 hours and doing maintenance.

 

[foggy1111]

I had a 790 (same as JD 3005) with metal fenders before getting my 3320. My fenders were getting quite weak at the seam(s)....probably from mounting dismounting the tractor. Also the lip on the fenders was kinked a bit. I was worried about the need to replace them at some point (before selling it).

The plastic fenders and hood have little concern to me. I think they, are in most ways, superior to metal. My fenders regularly get some branches banging on them.....but bounce back.

Can they break? Sure....but I think it takes more to damage them than the metal ones. Look at all the "plastic" bumpers and body panels on cars and trucks. Many over-the-road trucks have plastic hoods / fenders.

Also, all "plastic" is not the same.....and I think Deere selects quality materials / polymers for the job. And....the paint wont turn "pink" with time. :thumbsup:

 

[kiotiken]

I'd say that unless you've sat on, crawled under, researched online every tractor that in the size/hp range you're looking for, you should have cold feet, and for me, that feeling would never go away, I'd always wonder if I could have done better. Other than time, shopping is free.

I didn't go with the 3032e (I did go sit on it and researched it) because it was so lite, and was a fairly basic tractor. There's nothing wrong with either of those qualities, but for me, that's not what I wanted. I wanted a work horse with lots of nice features. I looked at Kubota, JD, Case, Landini, Branson, Kioti and probably a bunch more I can't really think of right now. I made a list of what was important to me:

Weight of machine
Loader lift capacity
Hydraulic flow
3pt hitch capacity
features
price

Unfortunately, the 3032e didn't score well except for in price. There were other issues like the FEL not coming off, no folding ROPS, lack of remotes, unavailability of a backhoe etc.

I'm not bashing the 3032e, it was nice, just not for me. My post is mostly to urge you to find out what is best for you, if it's the 3032e, then fantastic, but you'd be crazy spending all that money without making sure. Color doesn't mean all that much anymore.

 

[SwLWildcat]

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The only thing I do not like (and wouldn't buy one) about the 3032e machine is it has no off-seat PTO operation (for a chipper, generator or other tasks that require stationary use).

snip

This is a super easy fix. I have the 4720 and has the same thing. On the back of the seat there is a connector with 2 wires coming out. Make a short 3" wire with 2 make spade connectors. Unplug the connector and plug the jumper in. You can run the PTO out of the seat afterwards. When your done you can plug the seat back in if you wish, or just leave it jumpered forever.

 

[RoyJackson]

This is a super easy fix. I have the 4720 and has the same thing. On the back of the seat there is a connector with 2 wires coming out. Make a short 3" wire with 2 make spade connectors. Unplug the connector and plug the jumper in. You can run the PTO out of the seat afterwards. When your done you can plug the seat back in if you wish, or just leave it jumpered forever.

I think most of us know how to do any workaround...I just think it was stupid of Deere not to make it a standard operation on all their tractors.

BTW, your 4720 does not have the same thing. The 4720 does have offseat PTO capability.
This is from YOUR manual:
Using Rear PTO (Operator off Seat)

NOTE: The rear PTO can be engaged with the operator off the seat. The Safety Interlock System will stop the engine and all implements if the mid-PTO is engaged and the operator gets off the seat.
Engaging Rear PTO
1. Sit on operator痴 seat.
2. Move transmission to neutral position:
PowrReverser: Depress clutch pedal completely and move the transmission gear and range shift levers to the N (neutral) position. Move the reverser lever to the N (neutral) position.
eHydro: Move the range shift lever to the N (neutral) position.
3. Lock park brake.
4. Push all PTO engagement knobs to the disengaged/off position.
NOTE: The starter will not crank if the rear PTO knob is pulled to the engaged/on position.
5. Start the engine and adjust speed to 1500 rpm.
6. Get off the operator痴 seat.
7. Engage rear PTO:
Tractors without cab - Pull the rear PTO engagement knob to the engaged/on position.
Tractors with cab - Move the PTO selector lever to rearward position for rear PTO only. Pull the rear PTO engagement knob to the engaged/on position.
8. The instrument panel PTO engaged light will illuminate when the rear PTO is engaged.
9. The engine should continue to run.
10. Adjust the hand throttle lever forward to the desired speed for implement used.
NOTE: The PTO marker on the tachometer indicates engine speed for a standard 540 PTO.

 

[Rob-D]

After learning my lesson on tractor sizing I'd say go for the 3038e like someone else recommended.
There's a point when you have enough power and tractor, that point for me was the 3x20 series. The trouble is I only bought my first tractor in 2006 (a 2320), you have to work with a machine for awhile before you have an idea of what you can live with power and size wise.
Now I know. My advice is to get the next tractor up from the one you think you need, unless you' ve done this your whole life, you simply don't know.

These tractors can do so much real work that once you get addicted you start thinking, "hey I can build..... do.... make, etc."

Just today I did more work that I could ever have done in a month without my tractor. Our garden is over 200 feet long and this was the first year we expanded it. I did all the work with my tractor. The garden will supply enough food for four or more vegetarians for over a year. How do you beat that!

Rob

 

[Beltman60]

I know this thread is a year and half old but was wondering if you got the 3032E and if so are you happy with it?
with close to 300 hrs. on mine I know I made the right choice
just wondering

 

[Steve IA]

I know this thread is a year and half old but was wondering if you got the 3032E and if so are you happy with it?
with close to 300 hrs. on mine I know I made the right choice
just wondering

I'm with you. 2 years old and 300 hrs. With loaded tires (washer fluid) it has done everything I ask with no complaining. Tough enough for what I do and small enough, even with the loader, to get on the wooded trails. Love mine.
Steve
southiowa