3186

[chiefwahoo]

When the blades are engaged they will loose drive, but the brake doesn't stop them, and if I want to shut them down myself, I can't. Plus the blades don't shut down in reverse and I haven't disabled the switch.
I tried to have the blades engaged and removed the relay, but the blade still ran. Not sure if that is the way it is suppose to work. I know that the switch the engages them also can be bad, so I thought that I would try to see if anyone has had the same problem so I don't waste money buying spare parts. Any help would be appriciated.

 

[chiefwahoo]

bump

 

[Fordlords]

Initially this sounds to me like an electrical problem with the PTO clutch (short circuit somewhere) that is keeping it stuck in the "ON" (engaged) position. PTO clutches are clutches activated by an electromagnet, and that magnet does have a high current pull. The only thing being the blades losing power thing confuses me in this case. PTO clutches are expensive, so I'd buy a cheap volt-ohm meter at Wally-World and start troubleshooting switches first. If you click the key to run with engine off and blades disengaged on the switch and hear the PTO clutch kick on, it's an electrical short. If not, it is possible the PTO clutch itself is seriously out of adjustment keeping it mechanically engaged all the time, there is a clearance setting with them that has to be set up properly on the mounting bracket.

-Fordlords-


-Fordlords-

 

[JTKub]

The 3K series machines use an electro/mechanical vacuum actuated PTO, as opposed to the electomagnetics on just about everything else. I'd look into a clutch air-gap issue, or something with vac switching valve/solenoids?

Joel

 

[KJO]

I have that same vacuum PTO system on my 3100. It engages when an electrically operated switch allow vacuum to pull in a large diaphram. There is also a pair of wires running to the clutch as in the older electric clutches like Fordlord's 682...(we have one of those also). I am not sure what that extra set of wires does although I have a suspicion that they are an electric brake which stops the blades quickly. Unfortunately, we don't have an electrical schematic for the tractor yet, so it is difficult to tell what all goes on there. How many hours do you have on your tractor? Is it possible that some of the clutch lining may have come loose from wear and caused the clutch to "hang up" which would result in continual operation of the mower blades. As Fordlords pointed out, there is a very minimal clearance in that clutch and it would not take much to cause it to stick.

 

[chiefwahoo]

I have 222 hours on the tractor, but the blades will stop running and stop spinning without the brake engaging. I think it's probably related to the switch, but I'm not quite sure.

 

[KJO]

Over the years I have found many electrical problems caused by poor electrical connections. Often times garden tractors are left outside and either rainwater, or condensation will get into everything including the electrical connections. Over time this will cause corrosion to start working on the connection. This seems to be particularly bad if there is dis-similiar metals involved in the connection. I would do a thorough inspection of the entire wiring harness checking each connector very closely. Your machine is not that old, but it does not take much to cause an open circuit. On my new CC the operators manual warns against even washing the machine with either a garden hose or a pressure washer because the water could possibly get into electrical connections and devises. Compressed air is recommended for cleaning.
The next step could be to locate a wiring schematic for the machine and trace everything out. I can't help you on that one as I don't have a schematic for my tractor either.
Good luck!

 

[bermuda_ken]

Check the two plastic vacuum lines for cracks or damage. We have seen these go bad. Also had a diaphram stick in the "ON" position once....... If anyone needs a wiring diagram, (for any Cub Cadet) IM me and I can snail mail or fax one. I'm a Cub Cadet dealer.