3215 starts, runs and then dies after 2-3 seconds

[Timmanny]

I have a Mahindra 3215 with around 250 hours on it. I was working it at my moms place, using the loader, I had just pushed out some saplings and underbrush when I moved to park and hand load some debris. It just died as if I shut it off. It restarted like normal, but died after 2-3- seconds. I checked for any fluid leaks, none found all seemed ok and fluid levels ok. When I tried it again I did notice my glow plug light didn't come on but, my PTO light did come, although not engaged and engine would start. That just confused me more. I checked fuses and all where ok except the instrument panel fuse (10 amp). Replaced fuse with 10 amp and it blew. The instrument panel then looked normal before fuse would blow. Although if fuse was blown or not the engine would still die. While running no smoke no rough running, no missing. Engine would perfect, just only 2-3 seconds. Just as if you started it and turn it off right away. As far as the fuse I tried a 15 amp and it worked, then replaced with brand new 10 amp and it hasn't blown after 10-15 tries while I was testing everything I could think of. Individually I disconnected temp and oil sensors, no effect that I could tell. Could not find any chaffed wires or breaks, all seem very well protected. I can't find anything in owers manual to help and I haven't gotten a repair manual for it yet. Electric fuel pump works. There are two wires that run to back of injector pump, one is hot while switch is in run position, and other is hot only in start position. At the moment just using test light, I dont have any specs for testing otherwise. Does anybody have any idea as to whats going on? And please no wisecracks, this is discouraging when combined with other things that are going on around here.
Thanks
Timmanny

 

[Sergei]

From the manual the 10 amp fuse covers the Alternator,Glow controller,Fuel pump,ETR solenoid, panel indicator,air heater element. Sounds like you need to start and eliminate each one and see which blows the fuse. I would get yourself some 6 or 8 amp fuses to test with and maybe this way you might not damage something else, might work not sure of the load on a good system.

 

[Timmanny]

Thanks Sergei, I'll try that, although I may not get there for a few days.
With loader attached not easy to load on trailer and bring home.
Thanks again,
Tim

 

[Sergei]

I've been trying to find the location of the air heater element and no luck, maybe it was an option from Mitsubishi, but no picture of it's location. Have you changed your fuel filter and also you might check your air filter and the small valve (VACUATOR VALVE ) on the bottom to make sure it's not plugged, it needs to be open.

 

[Timmanny]

When i was checking things yesterday all was open and clear, even at my brothers suggestion I removed outer air filter to try. No luck that way either. I had also disconnected outlet hose from electric fuel pump and ran a clear hose to dump back in tank. I have no way to actually check flow or pressure, but looked at least a gallon or two a minute. Seem to remember that as I was looking there is nothing in line on intake hose from filter to turbo except the bulkhead fitting by radiator. Mind you though with loader on and me straddling the front it was hard to see by the turbo. I do appreciate it you have at least given me some things to look for. I am new to this forum and have been looking at different threads to find any useful info. A lot of pages to go through in an afternoon before church, but has been enjoyable and informative. May everyone hang in there and have a good day.
thanks
Tim

 

[brin]

When you posted you had just -" pushed out some saplings and underbrush" that makes me wonder if you did not knock a wire loose or lose enough to have good contact..I know when I clear brush and trees things like that happen since many of those wires are exposed and branches find them. Just a thought.

 

[Timmanny]

Just a thought, the oil sending unit/sensor, is that the one on top of head or side of block on the mitsu engine? Is it just an idiot light type, just off or on not a pressure value? If so does the mitsu have a auto shut off to protect engine or just turn on the idiot light? What would be the result if the sensor went bad? If using a simple light tester shouldn't I get ground when engine is off and when started as pressure was built light would go off? But, shouldn't just disconnecting it allow engine to keep running? I did try it with wire disconnected but, that didn't help.
Oh well, I do wish i had it home though.
Thanks,
Tim

 

[Timmanny]

Thanks Bob,
I hadn't found any lose or frayed. I had dash covers loose and side panel lose for PTO switch and tracing wires at rear to lights to no avail. I uderstand branches though. They can fight back! Had one pop out of bucket and hit hose fitting square on, split it right at edge of casting of threads. Fortuntly we had odd fitting at my work that were same type. Made a new hose there and was able to assemble on lunch break.
Thanks again,
Tim

 

[Timmanny]

Sorry brin, not bob

 

[Sergei]

What about your fuel, had you refueled before this started? As far as I see only an oil sending unit to the panel, no auto shutoff.

 

[Timmanny]

Fueled up that morning before i started, should have at least 5 gallons. Electric fuel pump is working check number 6 this thread. I don't have a way to check pressure of output but, from what little i know of diesels the pump is mainly to keep injector pump supplied.
thanks
Tim

 

[Timmanny]

Sorry number 5 not 6. I need my 'puter glasses and a bigger screen.
Tim

 

[Sergei]

You might also check the Fuel Shutoff Solenoid connection to make sure it's
good and it's located on the right side and is threaded into the fuel injector pump. It's controlled by the either the on or start position of the key.
Does the engine always shut down in the 2-3 seconds and does the tractor have to be moving for it to happen?

Checked and the ETR is the Fuel Shutoff solenoid and is in the fuse circuit that blew on you, hopes this helps.

Something else you might make sure your battery connections are good, I have to clean mind every year.

 

[Timmanny]

Moving or not, just not much time to move very far. The fuel solenoid You are referring to, would that be round thing with 2 wires hidden behind but i FEEL that it is there? I had disconnected it at plug and have 1 wire hot in on/run position and other in start only position. Yes, stops every time just as if you intentionally did it. Even tried throttling up some but still extremely consistent. I starts right away, but stops just as quick. What would be a way to test this solenoid without buying a new one, seems my dealer went out of business, but i should be able to go to cub dealer to get one. I don't believe they have a mechanics shop though. But, if this solenoid is bad would it allow it to start at all. It wont start if disconnected. If i remember right, (i tried so many things yesterday) if i just jump one or the other side it would not start at all. Both wires had to be connected to get it to start.
Thanks tim

 

[Sergei]

It can be tested after removing it with a 12 volt supply, but you need a replacement washer. When testing they are looking for the protruion distance or if the plunger fails to retract. My only guess is that maybe your getting just enough fuel to run the 2-3 seconds before running out, maybe the solenoid is not being held up by the safety stop relay which engerizes it from the starter switch. Check the relay assembly, one should be for the lamps and the other is the load, both should be together.

Looks like the relays are below the steering wheel to the left attached to the steering assembly under the panel.

 

[Timmanny]

Hey thanks, I'll have to try that as soon as I can get there. May not get there to work on it till friday, maybe sooner.
Thanks again, I'll leave a post as soon as i find out.
Tim

 

[Sergei]

Something else to check is the to make sure the fuel tank filler cap and filter screen are not clogged and then causing a vacuum. There's not many thing I can see would give you a 2-3 second failure rate every time, except for a fuel issue, any other problem I think would be more random in time. Like I mentioned before try this, unhooking the engine stop solenoid connectors and put a meter on them and turn the key on and see if the circuit will stay up, this should test everything up to the solenoid.
Sorry for some issue on component names but it seems one person wrote description section and someone else wrote the schematics.

 

[Timmanny]

Thanks, i will look into it. Just on lunch break. Thought i'd take a looksee.
Tim

 

[AchingBack]

Timmanny, have you ever drained your fuel tank? I know on my 2615 it is on the scheduled maintenance chart. There could possibly be something in there blocking steady fuel supply.

 

[manganos]

Sorry to hear this. I'm an engineer by day so take what I say worth a grain of salt LOL. If it starts and shuts off at the same intervals I'd suspect it has something to do within the electronics. A manual issue would not be a repeatable pattern in my opinion. Stupid question but do you have a warranty on the machine? Might be worthwhile to let a dealer look at it. Please let us know what it ends up being.