Backhoe 3320 backhoe
- Thread starter shadow753
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- john deere 3320
Yes - it's not difficult just time consuming.
Start on the left side of the tractor. Take the wheel off. Then take off the fender. This will give you complete access to everything. There is some wiring you will have to be careful of not pinching when installing the mounting plates.
Remove the bolts on the tractor as shown in the manual. Using the new, longer bolts that should come with the mounting plates, put the plate into place (one bolt will require a spacer) - use blue Loctite or equal on the bolts and torque to specificied value.
The right side of the tractor is a bit more problematic because of the electrical switches mounted on the fender. Remove the wheel, remove the bolts in the fender and carefully pull the fender around the backside of the ROPS. You can hold it in that position with a bungee cord.
The right side has a LOT more wiring to deal with. Get someone to help you with this side. There will be two wires that are routed up the inside of the ROPS that will have to be lifted up, so that the plate can slide underneath them. Check the wires for how high you can lift them. You need at least 4-inches of slack to slide the plate underneath.
If the rear hydraulic remote lines have not been run correctly, one of the wires may be trapped under the hydaulic lines. You have two choices, completely dissassemble the hydraulic remote lines, lift up the wire and reinstall the lines - or, cut the wires (one purple, one black) and splice them.
I'd opt for splicing as you can make a waterproof splice in both wires and re-run the wire loom in probably 20-minutes or less.
After that, the plate installs exactly like the one on the left side.
If the tractor came with the rear tires in the "narrow position," you probably want to swap the tires (right tire to the left side; left tire to the right side) to widen the distance between the tires as recommended in the back hoe manual.
Start on the left side of the tractor. Take the wheel off. Then take off the fender. This will give you complete access to everything. There is some wiring you will have to be careful of not pinching when installing the mounting plates.
Remove the bolts on the tractor as shown in the manual. Using the new, longer bolts that should come with the mounting plates, put the plate into place (one bolt will require a spacer) - use blue Loctite or equal on the bolts and torque to specificied value.
The right side of the tractor is a bit more problematic because of the electrical switches mounted on the fender. Remove the wheel, remove the bolts in the fender and carefully pull the fender around the backside of the ROPS. You can hold it in that position with a bungee cord.
The right side has a LOT more wiring to deal with. Get someone to help you with this side. There will be two wires that are routed up the inside of the ROPS that will have to be lifted up, so that the plate can slide underneath them. Check the wires for how high you can lift them. You need at least 4-inches of slack to slide the plate underneath.
If the rear hydraulic remote lines have not been run correctly, one of the wires may be trapped under the hydaulic lines. You have two choices, completely dissassemble the hydraulic remote lines, lift up the wire and reinstall the lines - or, cut the wires (one purple, one black) and splice them.
I'd opt for splicing as you can make a waterproof splice in both wires and re-run the wire loom in probably 20-minutes or less.
After that, the plate installs exactly like the one on the left side.
If the tractor came with the rear tires in the "narrow position," you probably want to swap the tires (right tire to the left side; left tire to the right side) to widen the distance between the tires as recommended in the back hoe manual.
kennyd
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Was it stolen?That is a great find!