34 Acres and 1/4 mile gravel driveway

[wolc123]

That’s exactly the acreage that I have and I’m very thankful to have bought a John Deere (2005 model 4120) as my primary tractor.

I also have one each of the other two classic American “big three” (a 1951 8n Ford and a 1957 IH Cub). What I like best about owning those is the appreciation that they give me for the Deere.

 

[airbiscuit]

I would say a 35-40hp tractor Kubota or LS (or Kioti if there is a dealership nearby). I'm not crazy about Mahindras. A rear blade WITH a tail wheel or a land plane.

 

[paulsharvey]

I would say a 35-40hp tractor Kubota or LS (or Kioti if there is a dealership nearby). I'm not crazy about Mahindras. A rear blade WITH a tail wheel or a land plane.

So, $40k; I'll break into around $37,500 for the machine, around $2,500 for impliments. That will pay for forks, and a 8 ft manual rear blade (or 7 ft box blade, or maybe a used land plane)

It looks like a LS MT357H is right at $34,500; or the cabbed version can be had for $39,500.

You can find an 8 ft rear blade starting around $1500 new; on upto $4500 for hydralic tilt and pivot.

Given the choice of maybe going 45hp, and all of the impliments at once, new; vs a 60hp machine, with the impliments you Need today, and buy others as needed; I would 100% buy the 60 hp tractor.

It looks like the MT357H comes with 2 sets of remotes standard.

 

[paulsharvey]

If you are financing, don't forget to budget about 6-8% of the sale price for insurance for the life of the loan.

You 'should' be sales tax exempt in most locations, but might want to check.

 

[paulsharvey]

If your area has a lot of affordable used impliments; you Might be able to squeeze an MT468 shuttle into that budget; but it's right around $39,500, shuttle, open station.

You didn't mention Massey dealers near by, but if you have one reasonably close (maybe 100 miles or so), a MF2860M power shuttle, open station, would be possible too.

Kioti, NX6020 might also fit the bill, but once again, I think that's going to be towards ro upper end of the budget.

Kubota MX5400, open station, might be within reach at 40k, but I think they are closer to $45k

 

[Dftodd]

With that budget and those options for oems, I'd go LS. You won't get much of a Kubota for $40k compared to the other 2.

You may want to look a little further away.

Your correct on $40k not going very far with a Kubota.

I priced out an L2501 w/ QA bucket, box blade and brush hog and about fell out of the chair when they quoted me out the door for $32,000.

That same set up minus QA bucket sold for $18,000 with a 20ft trailer in 2018.

Granted the local dealers were purchased by a conglomerate so prices went up and service went way down.

 

[Dftodd]

I have 80 acres and a mile long gravel driveway. First tractor - Ford 1700 4WD. Upgraded in 2009 with Kubota M6040 4WD.

For driveway maintenance I have - HD rear blade, roll over box blade( ROBB) and land plane grading scraper( LPGS).

I use the rear blade for snow removal and cleaning out the driveway ditches. For maintenance of the driveway - land plane grading scraper.

The LPGS has scarifiers which are used on any pothole, wash outs or anywhere I need to dig down to make repairs.

The ROBB sits on a pallet, out in the orchard, collecting dust.

The HD Rhino rear blade tries to be like a highway dept road grader - but it simply IS NOT. The geometry between the tractor and the blade just does not work like a real road grader.

For over 35 years I've tried to grade the driveway with a rear blade. Some times it will do fairly well. Most times it will turn something minor into something worse. That's why, five years ago I got the LPGS.

Just hook up the LPGS - drag it behind the tractor - driveway becomes as smooth as a pool table.

I made a homemade box blade for my last tractor. I built in a rear door that hinged at the top. I could lock it open, let it hang, or lock it shut.

Worked like a land plane when opened.

Carried more material when the door was left hanging. But would still dump out the back.

Would carry a full load of dirt when locked shut.

I currently have two box blades. One given to me, the other came with the packaged deal when I bought the Massy.

The older one is fixing to get a rectangle box cut into it just above the blade to use as a makeshift land plane with scarifiers.

 

[Tinhack]

200' in 1/4 mile is a darn steep driveway! That's a 15% slope. Are there switchbacks? That should be fun in the wintertime. Whatever tractor you get, make sure it's 4-wheel drive. I have a 10' rise in the same distance and my 50hp tractor lugs pulling a load unless I drop a gear or two. Use whatever gear or range to keep the tractor in its power band.

 

[LouNY]

Without your at least general location it makes reply's almost meaningless;
Just for the heck of it here's a search for 60-120 hp tractors with cab and loader for under $35,000,
Pardon Our Interruption

Also with good studded chains a good sized two wheel drive tractor can easily take care of a driveway.

 

[rScotty]

Without your at least general location it makes reply's almost meaningless;
Just for the heck of it here's a search for 60-120 hp tractors with cab and loader for under $35,000,
Pardon Our Interruption

Also with good studded chains a good sized two wheel drive tractor can easily take care of a driveway.

So much depends on the owner and what level of mechanical work and weather exposure he finds comfortable within that budget.

My guess is that with so much acreage and a steep driveway he already knows his tractor is not going to be "push button everything and climate controlled". There will be some old cloths an muscle work involved.

Like Lou says, he can save a bundle with 2wd + chains for winter instead of buying a new part time 4wd. There are no full time 4wd tractors in his price range.

Good news is that all tractors have a locking differential and individual wheel brakes.
My experience is that those two features plus chains have better traction and control than a 4wd without chains - particularly on slopes. Please do get power steering,

He can & should look at the used market. There 2wd is more common. Buying used can fetch a larger popular premium brand of tractor that holds its value for the same money as paying for new tractor in a less well known brand. Only the OP knows what it would take to make him comfortable buying used. But it is always worth considering.

Most new tractors are still available with the optional shuttle/glide/power shift. Those are called "clutchless powershifts" and are very reliable and powerful. Some folks prefer them. They same thousands over a hydrostatic (HST) transmission and give a greater selection of gearing and more power compared to a HST.

Manually adjusted implements that require getting off the tractor to adjust are less than half the price of implements hydraulically controlled from the seat. And once set right, they do exactly the same job.
Everyone buys a box blade, and then discovers the limitations. Instead, consider putting that money instead into a heavy back blade with a tail wheel, end plates, and lots of adjustments for tilt,angle, and offset. Then keep your eyes open for a used land plane - used ones are as good as new for any pulled implement.

If you want a box blade, ask around. Lots of us have them just sitting.
Good luck,
rScotty