3520 e-hydro "B" range

[Killer_B]

Prowley,

I do virtually everything on my 3320 at 2K RPM's in B range, finish mow, brush hog, snow plow, snow blow, etc. At that speed the engine can clear its throat a bit, but doesn't sounds like it's screaming. I never notice any laboring up hills in B range. You can hear it grunt a bit because it's a heavy tractor. But that's all.

Try 2,000 RPM's and see what happens. That should give the turbo a better shot at doing its thing as well.

KB

 

[RollTideRam]

I guess 1500 is the lowest (because it says minimum on the clock ), I can push the pedal to the metal and it doesn't make a difference. Higher RPMs lets me go faster, but I think it still bogs - haven't done it enough to recall, I'll pay more attention next time.

On hydro tractors, the pedal to the metal is high gear, with no rpm's that may be your problem. JC

 

[deerchop]

I usually run my 3520 around 15-1700 for poking around the yard or field. I have not turned off my load match since I got the tractor and was thinking last night why they even put the switch on there, it should just be on all the time IMO. It sounds to me like you are trying to idle around and these machines with the hydro tranny need a little RPM to get the juices flowing. I have not had the problem in B range but in C on the road sometimes is does have a hard time with the hills but so does our old 2000 Ford. I have never used A range for anything and I do some hard ground engagement with my machine, A is just to slow for me.

 

[prowley]

I tried higher revs (2k) and that does certainly make it more sprightly, but it is still not holding speed on the steeper inclines, getting slower until I'm thinking it might stop. Adding a lot of revs (PTO speed or more) gets me up that incline, but at the expense of noise. Maybe I'm asking too much here, but I'm surprised that with all that low end torque it wouldn't just keep going no matter what.

I'll take a look at that load match setting next time.

 

[Woody_NH]

I guess 1500 is the lowest (because it says minimum on the clock ), I can push the pedal to the metal and it doesn't make a difference. Higher RPMs lets me go faster, but I think it still bogs - haven't done it enough to recall, I'll pay more attention next time.

Just realize that pushing the pedal to the metal on the ehydro is kicking the gear ratio up quickly, the pedal is not a throttle control. It is a gear ratio control. Give it more throttle on the hand control and ease down on the pedal in B or C range to let it get up to speed.

 

[prowley]

Just realize that pushing the pedal to the metal on the ehydro is kicking the gear ratio up quickly, the pedal is not a throttle control. It is a gear ratio control. Give it more throttle on the hand control and ease down on the pedal in B or C range to let it get up to speed.

Woody, I think that made the penny drop here. I didn't realise that - now I understand what the problem is with what I'm doing.

Thanks all.

 

[Nuru]

no problem on grades for me, i just punch it and go in A or B. Have not done C on the grades yet, no reason, to though.

I finally got to spend about 3 hours on my unit today after I took the loader off. i trried all 3 gears up my slopes and had not issues, even C worked. A and B worked fine, sems like A was kinda fast going up hills, B was fast too but an expected fast. A seemed too fast. I was running at over 2000 rpms.

 

[Woody_NH]

Woody, I think that made the penny drop here. I didn't realise that - now I understand what the problem is with what I'm doing.

Thanks all.

Prowley, now about that "loadmatch" switch. When the machine starts to bog down like when pushing into a pile with the loader, our instinct is to push the pedal to the floor. Of course that ups the gear ratio and could lead to a stall.

Loadmatch is like an automatic RPM control. You set the no load RPM with the hand throttle, then go to work. If you kick the pedal down too far and the RPM drops, loadmatch negates some of your pedal push (cuts the gear ratio back down) to maintain the RPMs and torque. So go out and play with all this.

BTW, back here in NH, I never had hear the phrase "that made the penny drop." From the context I assume it is sort of like "the light went on". Just curious, what can you say about the origin of that saying?

 

[prowley]

Prowley, now about that "loadmatch" switch. When the machine starts to bog down like when pushing into a pile with the loader, our instinct is to push the pedal to the floor. Of course that ups the gear ratio and could lead to a stall.

Loadmatch is like an automatic RPM control. You set the no load RPM with the hand throttle, then go to work. If you kick the pedal down too far and the RPM drops, loadmatch negates some of your pedal push (cuts the gear ratio back down) to maintain the RPMs and torque. So go out and play with all this.

Yes, I'll have to play more with this. I switched off load match tonight, and while I wasn't doing exactly the same thing (I was mowing), I did notice more willingness to climb a slope.

BTW, back here in NH, I never had hear the phrase "that made the penny drop." From the context I assume it is sort of like "the light went on". Just curious, what can you say about the origin of that saying?

Yes, "the light went on" is equivalent, I'm a Brit and it's a Brit phrase. Over 10 years in the states and I'm still full of colloquialisms to confound and confuse the locals. I don't really know the origin of that phrase but it seems many think it originates from putting pennies in some kind of machine. The most likely, and may actually make those two phrases related, is the old coin operated electric meters that were common many years ago, when the penny dropped the lights came on.

 

[kude]

On my 755, my understanding was to get the best out of it, that the high PTO or 3200 something RPM is where it should always be run at. The only time to drop the rpm was to engage the PTO.

I apply this to the 3520. I run it at the high PTO mark on the tach, and drop it to the low RPM mark for engaging the PTO.

Going uphill is putting a load on the system. If you are going up and down try leaving at the high RPM PTO mark. You're not hurting the engine any.

I've run my 755 15 years that way and the 3520 for 3 years now the same.

Lugging the engine is not good. When in the higher ranges, IMHO you should be at the high PTO rpm.

If you want the low RPM, then run in the low slow range. It only takes a few more seconds off your life when passing your neighbors house slowly.