3520 to be used with a trailer log forwarder

tuolumne · Dec 6, 2013

I may be purchasing a used Metavic 1150M14 tomorrow. The manufacturer said 8gpm minimum. Please help me understand the 3520 hydraulics better so that I can hook this thing up most effectively. I need an open circuit (??) to run the log load which has independent valves on the trailer. I also need a circuit to articulate (steer) the trailer wheels and another for a hydraulic pump that drives the trailer tires.

I would steer and forward/reverse the trailer with the loader control. Does the 3520 loader have the required flow? The down side of this would be the need to disable the loader. I could hook up the trailer log loader to the 3rd scv rear ports or to the power beyond hydraulics.

Please weigh in if there is a better way. Perhaps a new set of remotes with valves on the fender or a switch to go from FEL to trailer functions without disconnecting hoses is an option. Cost?

pmsmechanic · Dec 7, 2013

John Deer makes a rear hyd outlet kit that can switch electricaly between mid and rear outlets. Part number LVB24854. Google that part number and you should be able to come up with a price. Or phone your dealer.

tuolumne · Dec 7, 2013

The price tag may put that diverter out of the question. What all is in that box? Is it everything required to plumb and wire four additional rear mounted outlets?

pmsmechanic · Dec 7, 2013

The kit includes everything needed to install four outlets at the rear of the tractor. There is an electric valve that is installed under the right floorboard behind the fel outlets. It splits the flow to either the rear or the mid outlets. The kit is around the $1500 mark. You should check that number I gave you with a dealer. The parts book says that it's for an open station model and when I googled that number it came up as a cab style rear outlet. I know it's expensive but that kit will give you a very convienient way to get what you want.

tuolumne · Dec 9, 2013

It seems like I could build something up for a lot less; maybe not as pretty!

I am picturing a manual diverter valve that plugs into the power beyond ports. From this I would have four outlets. One set could plug into the trailer log loader hydraulics. The other could have some leads coming back towards the right fender where I could mount a control valve to be used with the trailer steering. I do not need both functions active at once. This scheme would leave the FEL available also. I would use my existing 3rd SCV on the rear for the trailer drive.

Another advantage of splitting the power beyond with a manual diverter would be that may sawmill and the log trailer loader could be plugged in at the same time. I could switch between them with a diverter valve and use the trailer to load logs on the mill without disconnecting any equipment. Both the trailer loader and the mill have their own hydraulic valves, so the open power beyond hydraulics seems like the way to go.

Now for the question. Does such a manual diverter valve exist?

pmsmechanic · Dec 9, 2013

I don't think you need a manual diverter valve. Power beyond is designed for a backhoe which has it's own set of valves. Unless you are planning on having a backhoe on your tractor at the same time as the trailer log loader. I'm not sure how the power beyond outlets exactly work. When they are not in use do you connect the two outlets together with a hose? If that's the case then the whole project is quite easy. Let me do some research.

pmsmechanic · Dec 9, 2013

Ok so going by the power beyond (pb) parts diagram from deere it shows a hose that is plugged in to the other outlet when power beyond is not in use. Just plumb your trailer into the pb outlets. Make sure the trailer valves are open center. You should be able to blow air through the hoses with the hyd. ends removed, I'm not 100% sure but I believe all compact utilities from JD are open center. It should say in your owners manual. The hoses would go from the pb hydraulic outlet (and I don't know which is which) to your valves for the trailer. (Make sure the trailer valves have a flow capacity equal to or more than what the tractor has. Max flow should also be in the owners manual,) The return hose from the trailer should go to the valve on your fender for the trailer steering. The return hose from the fender valve should into the return line on the pb. If I'm right on all my assumptions then everything should work. Assuming that pb plugs back into itself when not in use and all hydraulics are open center and that the trailer has it's own set of open center valves.

tuolumne · Dec 9, 2013

Yes, PB plugs back into itself when not in use. I think I need a diverter (if such a thing exists) because I would like the log loader and sawmill, or the log loader and its drive control plugged in at the same time. Are you suggesting that these multiple functions could all be in series? I am sure that the log loader has a higher flow capacity than my tractor.

kennyd · Dec 9, 2013

My 2C: Contact Brian at Fit-Rite Hydraulics, I think you should add a new two or three spool valve set (they will handle the steering and whatever else), and have QD's on the PB lines so you can plug the needed "live" hydraulics in at the same time. What JD has to offer is not really enough for your needs IMHO.

According to the specs posted at JD's website, the GPM ratings for your 3530 are:
Pump rated output, gpm (L/min) 13.9 (52.5)
Steering 5.3 (20)
Implement 8.6 (32.5)

So, you are at the very low end (8.6) of what you said you needed. Perhaps you can/should power the live hydraulics with a PTO powered pump (but then you'll need a reservoir as well) and just operate the steering from your tractors hydraulic system.

Whatever you do, it's gonna cost some bucks.

tuolumne · Dec 9, 2013

I think I will put a 2 spool valve on the fender and run from the power beyond through the log loader, through the new valve and back again. I can also add the sawmill into this loop. The challenge I am facing now is putting together a plumbing list. The quick disconnects on the power beyond are non-standard. They don't even plug into each other. This means that I either need a few quick-disconnect adapters to make my various plumbing schemes work, or I need to switch out everything to some standard. What is this standard?