3720 Feels Tippy

[RoyJackson]

Where are you located, wayupnth? Besides "way up North?"

 

[orlo]

The only other thing I considered is a Backhoe, but as I said I have a BH6000 for the 2305 and based on the depth I mentioned, even if I got a 448 for the 3720 (or 3320 at the time) I thought it would be messy. I think they list for the mid 5K to 6K. I got it for 5 flat. Worse case, if I ever don't need it anymore I figure the resale can't be that bad.

I didn't do a ton of research, but the dealer had sold some of these. (Had an SC-50 on the lot) and liked them. I got the video and liked the features of it and was impressed by the demo.

I like the single direction grinding as having all those extra teeth really speed up the grinding. So reverse is just to swing back, not to grind. It also looks like the teeth (came with a few spares) are really easy to replace.

You can still 'overbite' if you try. I stalled the 3720 once while getting used to it and biting off way too much and going too fast.

I did consider portable grinders (Like a Dr, or a Husqvarna) but they seem like toys (By the tiny size of the wheels) compared to a tractor mounted one.

The wheel on the SC-25 is 24 inches in diameter, thick and heavy. Really cuts fast. The SC-50 isn't that much more $$$ but you need a bigger tractor to run it.

 

[wayupnth]

Thanks Orlo,

Roy, I am located in Maine

 

[Superduper]

He was backing up a 2-3 foot high embankment (not very steep) on solid lawn that leads to the driveway. When his back wheels were on the driveway and the front was still at the bottom of the small hill, he turned the steering wheel and one rear wheel came right off the ground. Thankfully, he didn't tip.

Perhaps it's just me but a 3' high embankment is not a small hill if the 3' rise is a short run. These tractors only have a 68" wheelbase. The fact that the front wheels were still at the bottom of the hill when the rear tires already reached the 3' crest makes it a fairly steep angle. Don't know what that computes to but it's got to be greater than 23 degree angle. Perhaps you math wiz's out there can do the math of 36" rise vs 68" run. With a loader attached and insufficient rear ballast, I could see how the rear can get real light real fast. The 300cx loader weights 856 lbs and I don't know what bucket is attached but suffice it to say that 1,000+lbs is not out of the question. Some of this weight is already in front of the front axle and the higher you lift the rear, the greater the center of gravity shifts towards the front.

 

[Superduper]

Hi:

I have a 3720 cab and know the feeling. ;O) I'm getting loaded R3's swapped on but for now I have unloaded R4's that the dealer delivered it with waiting on the R3's. I had the pucker factor a few times when I was using the loader with a grapple with an 800lb stump grinder on the back. The loader is very strong and it's easy to lift one of the rear wheels off the ground if the loader is unbalanced (I was lifting tree trunks). More than once I downed the bucket as fast as I could, even having it very low to begin with.

I am getting 6" wheel extensions to bring the width out to 72" since I want it to feel as stable as it possibly can. Once you get used to it it's not as unstable as it feels. I wouldn't dare use my loader without a lot of ballast or my 1000-1100lb ballast block on the back. Even with loaded tires if you don't have ballast you can lift the rear easily.

When all else fails, follow manufacturers directions. Interestingly enough, hardly anyone seems to follow the manufacturer's operational manual instructions (for the loader) which calls for (3x20 tractor with 300cx loader) Filled rear tires, 75% with CACL solution, 3 rear wheel weights per side AND 1100 pounds of rear ballast. This was the MINIMUM ballast required for safe loader operation and according to manual, additional ballast may be necessary when operating heavy loads. Perhaps tippiness (front-back, side-side) will both be improved when operated as manufacturer suggests?

 

[orlo]

Agreed. I have to say most of the tippyness I don't like is side to side and not front to back. (I don't have Wheel weights, but always use the ballast block and generally have loaded tires (with 900lbs on the 3720). The dealer delivered with unloaded R4's just until I get my loaded R3's.

 

[KennedyDiesel]

I have the larger R4's and had them filled with Rim Guard. The only time that I really feel tippy is when I bite off more than I can chew with the loader and it starts to lift a rear tire. This is with my 5' Harley rake (1000#) as ballast. It only tips until the front axle pivot limits ;-)

 

[wayupnth]

Well I now have had a chance to use a 4320 on the same terrain as my 3720 and in my opinion (and my wife as well) there is no comparison. The 4320 is about 20 inches wider and handles the ruts and slopes so much better. There is a different feel even though the center of gravity is higher. It doesn't feel all that much less maneuverable but you really notice the lack of that tippy feeling with every bump and rut. Now I need to decide what to do....

 

[orlo]

I say if you can fit the 4000 series go for it... I would have got a 4000 series (Probably a 4520) cab if it would have fit in my garage. With the non-cab units the ROPS fold so fitting shouldn't be an issue.

Will the extra weight be an issue with soil compaction or trailering?

 

[SuperDutyDave]

here's some thoughts

I went from a New Holland TN-75 (simlar to a 5000 series deere) to a new
3720 Cab...thinking that since I had larger tractor/loader on site a smaller tractor would give me more versatility. One year later I now own a new 4720 Cab...why several reasons...ability to handle a large turf-bat-wing mower mainly...but there are a few other reasons...

As much as I really liked the 3720 I can tell you there is a huge difference with it vs. my other tractors. Fit finish excellent cab great...power acceptable, loader capacity good...

Flaws...definitely too tippy...particularly side to side even with loaded tires etc. The reason...its too narrow and as such it become top heavy...too tall for too little width in my opinion...also the tires on the front (R4) are too small for loader work and too small for field ruts. Also do to the rather narrow/crowded rear tire/3pt hitch area...getting pto's attached and implments attached is somewhat difficult particularly if they are on the larger side.

I can tell you the difference in stablity and ride comfort from the 3000 series to the 4000 is night and day particuarlly if you are using in more Ag/rough terrain applications.

Good luck but spend the extra and get the 4720 it will be well worth the $$$ spent.

Dave