3720 hydraulic toplink

jenkinsph · Feb 19, 2011

Brian,
I agree that once you have your drive properly shaped as yours is then you can run up and down it with few or no adjustments.

In my case I am somewhere different each week performing initial grading on a new site. Shaping and forming requires realtime adjustments as you know.

MtnViewRanch · Feb 19, 2011

jenkinsph said:
Brian,
I agree that once you have your drive properly shaped as yours is then you can run up and down it with few or no adjustments.

In my case I am somewhere different each week performing initial grading on a new site. Shaping and forming requires realtime adjustments as you know.

Exactly

greg_g · Feb 19, 2011

jimgerken said:
Ultimately, I think a guy would like to get a toplink that had a range of at least 6 inches, and its range should be centered where the ball end of the top link is extended to directly above the draft arm balls

Ok. Today I raised the lower lift arms to where they were parallel with the tractor's longitudinal line. I ran a line between both lower swivel balls. I then attached a plumb line to the implement end of the 18-3/8" toplink that came with the tractor. I had to extend it all the way out to 24", and that was with the adjustable lower links fully retracted. I'm starting to wonder if the dealer simply didn't give me the wrong toplink (as in WAY too short).

50/50 might work for you, but I'm still thinking 35/65 or thereabouts. I'm not even going to look at 6" strokes. Which means I'm looking for something in the neighborhood of
(a) an 8" cylinder that's 21" closed and 29" open, or
(b) a 10" cylinder that's 20" closed and 30" open.

Now I've got a better starting point, thank you for getting my head straight with the plumb line idea.

//greg//

jenkinsph · Feb 19, 2011

greg_g said:
Ok. Today I raised the lower lift arms to where they were parallel with the tractor's longitudinal line. I ran a line between both lower swivel balls. I then attached a plumb line to the implement end of the 18-3/8" toplink that came with the tractor. I had to extend it all the way out to 24", and that was with the adjustable lower links fully retracted. I'm starting to wonder if the dealer simply didn't give me the wrong toplink (as in WAY too short).

50/50 might work for you, but I'm still thinking 35/65 or thereabouts. I'm not even going to look at 6" strokes. Which means I'm looking for something in the neighborhood of
(a) an 8" cylinder that's 21" closed and 29" open, or
(b) a 10" cylinder that's 20" closed and 30" open.

Now I've got a better starting point, thank you for getting my head straight with the plumb line idea.

//greg//

While you are making these measurements the vertical height of the toplink should be measured 18" over the lower links for Cat I. If you were using the IMatch then it should be measured at 15" above the lower links. I would first set the ball ends of the lower arms about 15 to 18" off the ground..

jimgerken · Feb 21, 2011

My Speeco quick hitch is 16.5" center to center from lower pins to upper pin. It is adjustable a few inches vertically, and I think mine is right in the middle of its range, at 16.5".
I can't find an absolute standard spec on this vertical distance. I guess Greg should use HIS own vertical distance, depending on which QH he is using (if any), or his average attachment distance.

Greg, I think you are right, you will want a bit more extension-length than retract-length. Assuming you get just the right overall length to start with of course. Thanks.