NOOOO! Please read all these replies. These guys are right! Keep the RPM as low as you can without stalling the engine.It has a clutch . Run the RPM up to speed
NOOOO! Please read all these replies. These guys are right! Keep the RPM as low as you can without stalling the engine.It has a clutch . Run the RPM up to speed
You should have enough hp to engage at idle speed. I do this on the 2025R and did on the 1025R. The 4010 with only 18.5 hp needed to be revved a bit. Otherwise, it would die.Getting ready to mow and for the life of me, I cannot remember what RPM to use to engage the PTO. Haven't mowed since last fall and a wet spring has backed everything up a bit here. I am new to this tractor. I believe it is 2300 RPM to engage then......3000 for operation? Running a brush hog.
Not sure what the travelling clutch has to do with the pto engagement in as much as 99% of tractors made in the last 30 years are live pto (which means the pto has nothing to do with the travelling clutch and is driven with a wet clutch pack inside the transmission). The travelling clutch should be fully engaged before engaging the pto clutch and the motor should be at an idle or just above an idle when engaging to mitigate wear on the pto clutch plates.It has a clutch . Run the RPM up to speed (I will get the book out, ) depress the clutch, engage the PTO and slowly back off the clutch which allows it to slowly spin up the PTO. I don't know why but I love that sound!
I have that issue with my disc bine. Takes a bit to get it rolling so engaging at an idle will stall even my 90 pto horsepower Kubota's. I have to bring the rpm up slightly to get the machine rolling, a couple hundred rpm usually does the deed with some black smoke from the exhaust stack. Every other powered implement (even my round bailer with a partial round in the bale chamber) is at an idle. Diesels, unlike gas engines, experience what is called 'torque rise' and that is when the engine adds more fuel to compensate for the imposed load. Gas engines don't do that, just diesels because of the way they fuel themselves.You should have enough hp to engage at idle speed. I do this on the 2025R and did on the 1025R. The 4010 with only 18.5 hp needed to be revved a bit. Otherwise, it would die.
Not sure what the travelling clutch has to do with the pto engagement in as much as 99% of tractors made in the last 30 years are live pto (which means the pto has nothing to do with the travelling clutch and is driven with a wet clutch pack inside the transmission). The travelling clutch should be fully engaged before engaging the pto clutch and the motor should be at an idle or just above an idle when engaging to mitigate wear on the pto clutch plates.
Running the pto up to speed (not engaged and then engaging the pto will only hasten the demise of the pto clutch pack and nothing else and you won't 'love' the replacement cost as it involves a teardown of the gearbox in most cases.
My L3200hst had the 2 stage clutch. 99% sure current economy Ls are the same way.. May as well have been a 1 stage. It got used for 2 things. Depressing the clutch safety switch to start it & starting the PTO. I generally didn't bother with the clutch stopping things, just made sure the PTO was under no load when I pulled it out of gear. The HST took care of any other needs you might use a clutch for. I guess they kept it the same as the geared models for simplicity sake.Never owned one so I'll take your word on it.
I went from HST directly to hydraulic shuttle with a gear drive final and no clutch at all. All that is in the bellhousing is a damper plate.
Don't want a dry clutch in a tractor at all actually.